The panty dropper - Page 4 - Lateral-g Forums

**fleetus macmullitz** · #31 06-12-2014, 02:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ron in SoCal

Way to step up Trey! I'm sure the usual suspects will sidetrack it...

Not enough hours in the day to derail every thread Ron.

It's just a service some of us provide to the members that need a lot of attention.

Congrats on the progress you've been able make Trey.

I remember the 'shake, rattle and roll' in my '74 455 TA.

**WSSix** · #32 06-15-2014, 05:52 PM

Thanks, Skip. It might be a while yet before I can make any more progress but it's for a really good reason. We'll see though.

Che70velle · #33 06-15-2014, 06:21 PM

Trey, that turned out really nice. Great job!

**WSSix** · #34 07-02-2014, 02:40 PM

No idea how I missed it but thanks, Scott.

Well, I've got an appointment at the alignment shop for tomorrow. Hopefully, I can get away from work and get that taken care of because I am some what anxious to see if I can dial in the alignment. Yes, I measured and squared the frame before welding but I'm just anxious for some reason.

Aside from that progress nothing else will happen with the car for a couple more months at least, I believe. I'm finally moving back to Georgia! And, it's just in time for Caffeine and Octane on Aug 3! Can't have the car in pieces for the trip. I'd have to make two trips from Kansas to get everything myself. Instead of doing that though, I'm going to have the car brought over to me later. I'm hoping to have the car in Atlanta some time in August. We'll see though. If I made two trips, I wouldn't be able to do what I have planned which is go into Colorado on more time and ride the Duc around. I'm heading for Durango and Pagosa Springs this time. It'll be the last time I ride in Colorado for quite a while I'm sure. It'll also be the first time this year I've gotten the chance to go so I'm taking advantage of that.

Thanks

efs69 · #35 07-02-2014, 03:00 PM

Good luck on the move. I havent been to Durango in a few years but I enjoyed it when I was there. Nothing like a good ride with some nice scenery. Keep the rubber side down.

**WSSix** · #36 07-03-2014, 02:04 PM

Just finished up with the alignment and had some questions. Here's what we were able to get the car to.

camber(l/r) -1.04*/-1.05*
caster(l/r) 2.05*/1.93*
toe(l/r) 0.14*/0.15* in, but it's degrees not inches

First, I have no idea what the toe degrees equates to in inches. Anyone know?

In order to achieve these numbers, the right(passenger) side needed a normal amount of shims. There's plenty of room for more shims in there. The left(driver) side is maxed out with shims front and rear. All the bushings are newer and good. Is this a problem? I ask because I'll be doing Custom Works coil overs and Speed Tech UCAs in the future and would prefer to address any issues before hand. I figure if I need to bend the frame mount in some, I can do that when I cut the shock mount portion out. I also wasn't sure if I should do this while doing the coil over conversion, or should I wait and get an alignment done after the new parts are in just in case the new parts can achieve the desired specs without changing the frame mounts.

I'll be emailing both Keith at Custom Works and Speed Tech before I do anything to ask their opinions but I wanted to ask here as well.

Thanks.

Vince@Meanstreets · #37 07-03-2014, 05:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WSSix

Just finished up with the alignment and had some questions. Here's what we were able to get the car to.

camber(l/r) -1.04*/-1.05*
caster(l/r) 2.05*/1.93*
toe(l/r) 0.14*/0.15* in, but it's degrees not inches

First, I have no idea what the toe degrees equates to in inches. Anyone know?

In order to achieve these numbers, the right(passenger) side needed a normal amount of shims. There's plenty of room for more shims in there. The left(driver) side is maxed out with shims front and rear. All the bushings are newer and good. Is this a problem? I ask because I'll be doing Custom Works coil overs and Speed Tech UCAs in the future and would prefer to address any issues before hand. I figure if I need to bend the frame mount in some, I can do that when I cut the shock mount portion out. I also wasn't sure if I should do this while doing the coil over conversion, or should I wait and get an alignment done after the new parts are in just in case the new parts can achieve the desired specs without changing the frame mounts.

I'll be emailing both Keith at Custom Works and Speed Tech before I do anything to ask their opinions but I wanted to ask here as well.

Thanks.

25" diam

1/32" = .07 degrees = 4.2 minutes
1/16" = .14 degrees = 8.5 minutes
3/32" = .21 degrees = 12.6 minutes
1/8" = .28 degrees = 16.8 minutes

**WSSix** · #38 07-03-2014, 07:08 PM

Thanks Vince! What's the 25 in diameter? Tire diameter?

**WSSix** · #39 07-04-2014, 05:21 PM

Did some more digging. The rolling diameter of the tire is the 25inches number. I'm guessing this is slightly less than full tire diameter given the weight on and flattening of the tire? That makes sense. From there it should just be simple trig calculations to achieve the degree to inches conversion.

**WSSix** · #40 10-26-2014, 04:19 PM

I finally have some stuff to update. After moving back to Georgia and starting a new job, I got myself situated and started working on the car fairly regularly. This stuff is just taking time. I've done a fair amount since the last update. I redid the fuel lines on the car, installed a parking brake, and upgraded the front and rear suspension. We'll start with the fuel system first.

When I put the LT1 in the car originally, I reused the factory fuel lines. Since I was a 403/auto I had fuel running down both sides of the car. I didn't like this and wanted to change it. I also wanted to use less flex line. I ended up making bulk heads front and rear and bending aluminum lines between them. I even put the fuel filter right in the middle of the car tucked up very close to the floor. It's well protected and easily accessed. The only thing I have left to do is to make a shield/cover for the front bulkhead connection. It's tucked up close to the floor and towards the inside of the car but I'm still afraid of the tire kicking something up and hitting the lines. Or, simply sand blasting them constantly. I painted all the lines black to hide them. Russell makes black aluminum lines but they cost $20 more than raw aluminum. It didn't cost me $20 to spray paint the lines.

Here are the pictures. Sorry it's so dark. I don't have the best lighting and was working on my back the whole time.

Front bulkhead

Rear frame rail kickup area

Rear bulkhead

Down the middle of the car with the fuel filter. I made a bracket/strap to hold the fuel filter too. It bolts to the subframe on top.