Project Greyscale 1971 Trans Am - Page 4 - Lateral-g Forums

Justin@EntropyRad · #31 01-20-2015, 09:41 AM

Want to see this thing done!. The big front splitter screams awesome

bsharpe · #32 02-16-2015, 11:07 PM

The 8.5 10 bolts are strong and could handle the LS3 but mine was an open rear. I would have needed to rebuild it and by new stronger axles. Considering I was going to change the rear suspension I started to look at my other options.

I started reading about the detroit lockers and learned the 9" lockers will perform better since they dont have c clips and cross pin. I was able to pick up a complete big web 9" that included a 31 spline third member with 3.20 gears and a locker for around $280 on Craigslist.

It was in rough shape but it cleaned up after a little work.

I will go over the suspension in the next update

**WSSix** · #33 02-17-2015, 01:08 PM

Nice score!

bsharpe · #34 02-17-2015, 08:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WSSix

Nice score!

I have seen similar deals. I was going to remove the suspension brackets and bearing ends no matter what. I could use any ford 9". Finding a third member with a good original locker takes patience and it might not last with how i plan to drive it.

**WSSix** · #35 02-18-2015, 08:28 AM

That's part of why I said screw it and just built a 10bolt. I had no desire to just wait around scouring the classifieds in an attempt to find a deal.

bsharpe · #36 02-18-2015, 01:47 PM

The front Subframe came with ridetech coilovers and I have always like Ridetech's products. It was an easy to pick their 4 link for the rear. The install seemed simple and the price is better than most of the other options. I got the weld on lower brackets since I was using the 9" housing and I also went with the rod ends but I wish I did a combination with some Poly joints.

The upper cradles were very easy to install. They fit my car very well and needed no adjustments. The rest of the install was not as easy as I had hoped. I knew some fabrication and welding was needed for the "bolt in" 4 link but I was really disappointed with the instructions and information available from ridetech.

The directions don't include a single measurement or diagram to help you locate the brackets. They make it seem like they fall into place but that is not the case especially when using a 9".

After calling and getting as much info as possible I starting installing the brackets. I needed to modify the upper brackets to fit on the 9" housing but finally got everything where I thought they should be and welded the brackets on.

**syborg tt** · #37 02-18-2015, 03:12 PM

When you install the brackets on the rear frame rails they were designed to be bolted in. A few guys have fully welded there brackets in and had the frame rails crack.

Here is what we did on 2nd chance.

On a side not I don't plan to track this car just autocross and I believe the two cars that have had there frame rails crack were both on a Road Course.

bsharpe · #38 02-18-2015, 06:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by syborg tt

When you install the brackets on the rear frame rails they were designed to be bolted in. A few guys have fully welded there brackets in and had the frame rails crack.

Here is what we did on 2nd chance.On a side not I don't plan to track this car just autocross and I believe the two cars that have had there frame rails crack were both on a Road Course.

I read about the cracked frames on Jay's thread. I am glad that I have not welded the frame brackets yet. I didn't plan on fully welding them but I am now considering strengthening the frame first. I looked into the replacement rails today. They are expensive but I do plan on going on a Road Course.

**syborg tt** · #39 02-19-2015, 08:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bsharpe

I read about the cracked frames on Jay's thread. I am glad that I have not welded the frame brackets yet. I didn't plan on fully welding them but I am now considering strengthening the frame first. I looked into the replacement rails today. They are expensive but I do plan on going on a Road Course.

Fairly certain you can get a set of Rails from Art Morrison.

bsharpe · #40 02-21-2015, 12:58 PM

I have been working with Jay(JSM) since he originally posted his c5/c6 flange setup. I knew that I wanted to use this type of flange on my current build. I was honestly waiting for DSE to finalize their setup using Steilows flanges.
I am extremely happy that Jay offered his flanges first.
This setup is not only better and more versatile than all the other options but it is also cheaper than most. The flanges might seem expensive when compared to a set of Ford Big bearing flanges($80) but you don't need brackets like those available from Kore3($750 for parking brake).

I already had a Ford 9" housing so I ordered the flanges and jig ends from Jay. I also ordered Mittler Bros 60" alignment bar from Jegs($130) and the 2.890 inner alignment blocks($80) for the third member from JEGS.

Jay will loan the larger inner alignment blocks but the third member cases with larger bearings are harder to find and are more expensive. I bought a empty case for $40 on craigslist. I now own a Jig for any 9" housing.

I measured and cut my axle tubes to the correct lengths. Assembling the fixture and using the jigs is extremely simple. I than tacked the flanges on and test fit everything under the car to make sure everything was perfect.

Everything looked great so I put it back in the Jig and had the axle fully welded. Truck Tech on spike had a good episode on building a custom 9". You can watch them online http://www.powernationtv.com/episode...om-9-rear-gear

I am now waiting for the weather to warm up so I can paint and assemble evrything