Work was really hectic last last year. I spent more time overseas in Africa and Europe, than I did at home. Well, at least until the oil prices tanked and I was laid off. Being currently unemployed, I've been spending more time in the shop lately. I needed this time off.
First off, I began looking through my massive parts shelves, documenting all the parts I already had, and writing down things I needed. I discovered that I have a bad habit of buying things twice, because I forgot I already bought something. That is what happens when your project spans 10 years. Plus, I've had several 1st gen Camaros, and bought various parts for those cars too, but didn't install them. From now on, I'll keep a parts spreadsheet for each car.
Then, I went through the parts I did have, and found that I'd rather use some newer items on the market to make this job a little easier. So, I sold a lot of stuff (and still more to go) and bought newer stuff. Those boxes that the new stuff shows up in, sure are handy for selling/shipping the old stuff.
Since Hot Rod Power Tour is finally rolling through my home state of Texas, with 3 stops here, I decided to push for completing this car by June. I've built entire cars in 3 months (post-paint) before, so I'm confident I can do it again. I'm sure there will be some late nights, but I am the type that will work on something until I get tired.
First, I tackled the front suspension. The rear suspension was installed by GAP Racing when they did the sheetmetal and minitubs, it is the Speed Tech torque arm setup with a new Moser 12-bolt. But, the subrame was purchased before I went with the torque arm setup, and it was fitted with Detroit Speed uppers and lowers. I'm not known for doing mix-and-match stuff, and I'm too anal for mixing up systems, so I sold the DSE parts and bought Speed Tech uppers and lowers to match the rear suspension. I figure that will save me 5 minutes of explaining what parts are on the car, when people ask me later on. Also went with the ATS/Speed Tech tall AFX spindles. Replaced the Hotchkis lowering springs with a set of QA1 coil-overs while I was in there. I installed all new Pro Forged ball joints, tie-rods, and idler arm. I have to say the quality of the Pro Forged stuff looks great, and they already come with EDP coating that looks nice. Also installed some billet tie-rod sleeves. I retained the DSE/Lee 600 series steering gear box, as those are great units. I also kept the DSE sway bar, as I like how it has the little stopper plates that keep it from being able to slide laterally between the frame mount bushings. It runs very close to the frame during rotation, so I'm not wanting any shifting there.
Before. Using Guldstrand holes, stock type spindles.
Blasted and painted the bare steel hubs on the AFX spindles, as they were showing surface rust. I'm trying not to install any bare metal parts on this car, is it looks awful later on. Spend some time doing it right the first time, and there aren't regrets later.
Blasted and POR15'd the factory steering parts. I find that I use that glass bead cabinet a LOT, and I'm glad I finally took it out of the box and assembled it a month ago. Now I wander around the shop and look for rusty stuff to blast. Restore, not replace, when possible.
Old (DSE) on left, vs new (Speed Tech) on right. Both are quality parts. Not shown are the lowers that I also swapped. I did like two features on the Speed Tech lowers better. They came with nice Heim-joint linkage rods for the sway bar, and also have adjustable steering stopper bolts. That will be nice to tune out any potential tire rubbing on the inner frame, later on.
After: Using original non-Guldstrand holes, and tall spindle. Should be better geometry.
Brian Hobaugh SCCA National Tour June 2014
First Hemi 'Cuda Convertible Ever Built
Short clips: Goodguys Pleasanton autocross and pit videos
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