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  #31  
Old 08-02-2007, 02:19 AM
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tyoneal tyoneal is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by streetfytr68
Correct placement for the shoulder harness bar is just below shoulder height. The "T-top" bar is an unnecessary addition to the main hoop and halo, in my opinion. A bit reduntant unless it is placed at a diagonal. The cage decision is very subjective. I can see both sides of the argument. If you favor a cage, but have concerns, the best route is to find a fabricator who will patiently custom bend each bar for maximum driver/passenger clearance and eliminate the back seat. Some money can be saved by starting with an off-the-shelf kit and then add/remove/modify bars on an individual basis.

-Don't place the A-Pillar bars behind the dash--go through the top of the dash.
-Don't put a knee bar in a street car. If a tie bar for the A-pillar bars is a must, put it far under the dash near the firewall/cowl.
-Don't have the cage built until any and all interior components are present during mock-up. (Seats, belts, AC, door panels, mirror, etc.) If you will be doing underhood down bars, then all interference components must be present as well (i.e. hood hinges, wheelhouses, master cylinder/booster, etc.)
-Don't forget to bring a list of other small fabrication tasks such as a battery mount, fuel cell mount or other simple brackets.
-Don't forget to leave clearance to facilitate working on the interior. That cage will be in the way. For example, I have door sill bars that connect the A-pillar bars to the main hoop. The door sill bars interfere with seat hardware installation and removal. If the bars were just 1/2" higher, I wouldn't have this problem. Since I take my car apart every winter, I must fight this little boo boo twice per year. The ensuing tantrum is fun to watch.
==============================================
Steve, your insight is much appreciated.

I try to plan in advance as much as possible and these tips will give me a great place to start.

Thanks again.

Ty

BTW: I'll have a couple of replacement MO's in the mail to you before to long.
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  #32  
Old 03-04-2008, 10:42 AM
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My68myway My68myway is offline
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I just had a 12pt cage installed in my 68 camaro and i love it, the car feels totally different and rides way better. It is a bit of a pain getting in and out of the car and you pretty much have to be a gymnist to get in the back seat. But like another guys doing i had the shop that installed it keep the bars as close to the body as possible and im going to start molding them into the actual structure of the car in the coming weeks. with that, 5pt harneses and race seats im not to worried about hitting my head on the bars, theres nothing in the car to hit your head thats soft in the first place so i really dont see much of a difference if the bars are tight on the body
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  #33  
Old 03-08-2008, 04:27 PM
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Anyone used or looked at this padding?

http://www.apexperformance.net/cartg...id=1603&cid=32

or this

http://www.apexperformance.net/cartg...id=1347&cid=32

Thinking I'll install the top choice on FUel looking for opinions. Been going back and forth on which one. If no one has used it either maybe I'll just get a sample of each and decide.
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  #34  
Old 03-08-2008, 08:12 PM
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James OLC James OLC is offline
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Dave,
I have been looking around for this myself and have pretty much decided on the BSCI Dual Durometer Padding (your first reference or their website is here). It looks like it is an excellent option and it's SFI 45.1 approved. I am ordering a couple of peices of it on Monday. I can give you a shout when it arrives if you want. Let me know.

By the way, did you get your fire system sorted out? I'm biting the bullet and ordering an FE36 system. I can always replace the tank...

Cheers
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  #35  
Old 03-09-2008, 09:04 AM
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Good topic here to cage or not to cage, we build cars both ways and I have to say I have been in and out of cars with cages for years and have never thought about getting hit. I guess with the cars we build its just not something that enters your mind and if it does than maybe its time for you to just buy a car with tons of air bags to be safe.

Build the car you want it, you dont plan on getting hit and cage or no cage in these old cars you are going to get hurt if you are hit fast enough. There is no way to protect yourself from this.

Key is not to get hit, pay attention and never let your gaurd down.

If you do cage the car it will not matter if you have padding or no padding, if you get hit its going to hurt. I have a car with over 800HP and its a daily driver with a huge cage in it no back seat and let me tell you its a pain to get in and out and we have the swing side bar. I personally dont like the way cages are built into these cars but there is really only one way to do it correct.

Good luck with your decission and keep us posted with picks
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  #36  
Old 03-09-2008, 07:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fesler
If you do cage the car it will not matter if you have padding or no padding, if you get hit its going to hurt.
Not claiming to be an expert on the subject but have read a fair bit on the subject and that statement would go against what most experts claim. I'll agree with it'll hurt. If I was going to hit you in the head with a pipe I think you'd rather have it wrapped in a tech material designed to absorb impact.... High speed side impact we won't go there but a low speed wack on your roll bar can crack your skull, padding will hopefully prevent that.
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  #37  
Old 03-09-2008, 07:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reboot04
Dave,
I have been looking around for this myself and have pretty much decided on the BSCI Dual Durometer Padding (your first reference or their website is here). It looks like it is an excellent option and it's SFI 45.1 approved. I am ordering a couple of peices of it on Monday. I can give you a shout when it arrives if you want. Let me know.

By the way, did you get your fire system sorted out? I'm biting the bullet and ordering an FE36 system. I can always replace the tank...

Cheers
Call me for sure when you get the padding. Well discuss the fire system then.
Thanks
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FUeL 69 Camaro RS
68 Corvair coupe
65 Impala SS
65 Corvair convert
64 Corvair Rampside
62 Corvair Greenbrier

http://www.sourceboards.com/
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  #38  
Old 03-27-2008, 10:22 PM
Orangechilly Orangechilly is offline
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See I was thinking of putting some added protection in my Z28 with t-tops but I wanted to try and hide it and use as small tubing as I could, would it nothing be worth it to strengthen the top of the car? I wanted to do this because I would had kids in my car. Any thoughts?
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  #39  
Old 03-31-2008, 06:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by reboot04 View Post
Dave,
I have been looking around for this myself and have pretty much decided on the BSCI Dual Durometer Padding (your first reference or their website is here). It looks like it is an excellent option and it's SFI 45.1 approved. I am ordering a couple of peices of it on Monday. I can give you a shout when it arrives if you want. Let me know.Cheers
Did you get the padding? What do you think?
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  #40  
Old 04-06-2008, 03:08 PM
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awesometool awesometool is offline
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I say no back seat for mine. I looked at it today and with the dse tub/quad it could work fairly easy but the dse roll bar leaves me 2 1/2" for lower seat to lock in and the stock one I have is 5" big problem. I sure buckets or something could work. After reading this post the rear passenger " my two kids" head would be about 2" from the cage. Ya I probably will not get in a collision but they ever got injured and I knew prior I would never forgive myself (LOL more room for some subs). here is a picture of it.


Last edited by awesometool; 04-06-2008 at 03:13 PM.
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