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  #31  
Old 05-20-2007, 06:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Speedster
Holy Crap... That's a serious bunch of pics. Nice project you have there. That will be one sweet ride when completed.

Thanks! I'm gonna post some more tonight!
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  #32  
Old 05-20-2007, 06:14 PM
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Putting the car back together after the undercoating. I have got many thing accomplished.

Installed the exhaust system. Putting the exhaust through the rear torque boxes is a challenge. It took me 1 1/2 days to finish.



Muffler is only tacked on inlet side at this point.



With a little ingenuity you can size down the hole in the rocker to only this small access hole for the exhaust tip clamp.



Welded in the drive shaft safety loop.


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  #33  
Old 05-20-2007, 06:15 PM
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Here is a couple of shots of the rear valence panel with the factory light housing mounted. They have been ground out using a die grinder to accept the rear PIAA BU lights. UP glues the lights in place.



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  #34  
Old 05-20-2007, 06:15 PM
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Installing the rear lights need a lot of attention and time. I mounted the studs to the rings with loctite red. Made sure everything fits right. Lenses go in from the inside. I had to cut some more of the tail panel. But it looks good. Cant see it from this picture though.

I installed the trunk carpet. Good scissors and the right carpet make for a fine fit. I got the carpet from UP. It is thin enough to be mold-able.

Then I installed the fuel cell and the nitrous bottle bracket.

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  #35  
Old 05-20-2007, 06:16 PM
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Well I am about 95% done with the Old Air A/C. Very straight forward and good quality, but I am not impressed with the vents.





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  #36  
Old 05-21-2007, 10:45 AM
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And I have completed 90% of the Painless Wiring 14 circuit system for the Mustang. I am pleased with the kit. Very easy. I just wished it had more than 1 extra relay. I will use it for the electric windows. I will have to add 6 extra circuits for the high amp items like High Beams, Low Beams, Driving Lights, A/C Cooling Fan and Clutch, the Electric Radiator fan and the fuel pump.

Here is the UP taillight sequential wiring harness. I liked how it eliminated all the cutting and crimping. It connects to the PIAA back up lights (connectors already there). You only have four wires to hook up and a ground. You will have to put on your own connector to the rear harness. I just cut off a four wire connector from the old harness and spliced it on to the new one.





This is the dash wiring. Believe it or not it is almost finished. Only the radio wiring, one glove box wire needing to be capped, connecting the driving lights to a switch, and connecting one "Old Air" orange wire to a switched hot. What worked: the Painless kit fit very well. What didn't work: only one extra interior circuit, GM column wires had to be cut and spliced with the provided connector.

And if you are really counting, I have yet to install the wiring for the console. It will have the power window switches (Jegs $149), couple of gauges (probably boost and oil temp), and of course the nitrous switch.



I decided to hide the wiring as much as possible. I routed the wires out to the drivers fender,



Up under the wheel well, (the bolts are #8 x 1/2" self tapping screws and will be ground off, then hidden by the fenders)

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  #37  
Old 05-21-2007, 10:46 AM
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Default Electrical Continued

and out the front under the lower nose.





This is not a finished project at this point. I am going wire tie it up better and use wire loom to protect the wires. This is where I am building my relays and fuse block for the major current draw items. (High Beams, Low Beams, Driving Lights, Fuel Pump, A/C Radiator Fan-A/C Clutch, and Engine Electric Radiator Fans. Note the detail. Every place there is a chance for scuffing, I have installed a rubber insulator.

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  #38  
Old 05-21-2007, 10:49 AM
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Default Locking Gas Cap

the newly available locking gas cap.

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  #39  
Old 05-21-2007, 10:53 AM
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Default Front Nose

Here is some picture of the front lights installed without the upper nose:







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427FE Vortech T Trim S/C Fast EFI
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  #40  
Old 05-21-2007, 10:54 AM
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Default Battery Box

I installed the battery box and mounted it to the frame to comply with NHRA rules. I also cut through the bottom of the battery box, insulated the holes and run the cables out the bottom of the box so you cannot see any wires.
The protective covering has been left in place for now.

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