'66 Nova Update

[ccracin]

Originally Posted by novanutcase

I'm going to incorporate a Safecraft fire suppression system in the car and I'm trying to decide whether I should go with 2 5 lb bottles and seperate them. One for the engine compartment and one for the passenger compartment or if I should just get a 10 lb bottle and plumb them into both compartments? Push/Pull knob for activation or auto-temp sensing heads? FE-36 or Halon? I'm thinking auto-temp for engine compartment and push/pull for passenger compartment

John

[/CENTER]

John,

I can give you some advice from personal experience. I was involved in a fire when I raced stock cars. A right side ball joint broke while I was leading the race. I hit the wall in turn one at about 80+. The impact broke the right front wheel off which in turn pulled the braided fuel line out of the fuel pump. As the car slid along the wall it pulled the wheel back through the car ripping the oil cooler off and tearing the body off the passenger side. Now the interesting part. Because the engine continued to run until the bowl was empty, it kept pumping gas and oil all over the headers. It created an inferno instantly. Since the body work including the firewall was torn open the fire tunneled straight into the cockpit. Luckily I had a Halon system in the car. It was a 5# bottle plumbed to cover me from head to toe. I hit the button and the fire was instantly out. (didn't have temp. triggers at the time) I climbed out of the car before it stopped rolling and without taking the window net down. Thats right the net was melted out of the window. That's how quick it gets really hot. I also had a triple layer fire suit, double layer gloves and nomex shoes. I did get some 2nd degree burns on my face because I had my visor cracked. It was about 90 degrees that night. I can say that the Halon system save my life. I have no experience with FE-36, but Halon does work very well. As for triggering, put the temp. sensing in the cockpit along with a push/pull. If I would have been knocked out, I might be dead. If you want something on the engine, make it seperate. When you set Halon off you can't breathe, that wouldn't be fun if you just have an engine fire. I'm not sure if the temp. trigger would be good under the hood depending on the trigger temp. I'm thinking push pull would do it. Anyway, sorry for the book but I am a firm believer in this equipment to say the least. Hopefully this helps.

Later,

[novanutcase]

Originally Posted by ccracin

John,

I can give you some advice from personal experience. I was involved in a fire when I raced stock cars. A right side ball joint broke while I was leading the race. I hit the wall in turn one at about 80+. The impact broke the right front wheel off which in turn pulled the braided fuel line out of the fuel pump. As the car slid along the wall it pulled the wheel back through the car ripping the oil cooler off and tearing the body off the passenger side. Now the interesting part. Because the engine continued to run until the bowl was empty, it kept pumping gas and oil all over the headers. It created an inferno instantly. Since the body work including the firewall was torn open the fire tunneled straight into the cockpit. Luckily I had a Halon system in the car. It was a 5# bottle plumbed to cover me from head to toe. I hit the button and the fire was instantly out. (didn't have temp. triggers at the time) I climbed out of the car before it stopped rolling and without taking the window net down. Thats right the net was melted out of the window. That's how quick it gets really hot. I also had a triple layer fire suit, double layer gloves and nomex shoes. I did get some 2nd degree burns on my face because I had my visor cracked. It was about 90 degrees that night. I can say that the Halon system save my life. I have no experience with FE-36, but Halon does work very well. As for triggering, put the temp. sensing in the cockpit along with a push/pull. If I would have been knocked out, I might be dead. If you want something on the engine, make it seperate. When you set Halon off you can't breathe, that wouldn't be fun if you just have an engine fire. I'm not sure if the temp. trigger would be good under the hood depending on the trigger temp. I'm thinking push pull would do it. Anyway, sorry for the book but I am a firm believer in this equipment to say the least. Hopefully this helps.

Later,

Chad!

Your little "book" will, more than likely, save my life someday so in the name of safety RAMBLE ON! PLEASE!!!

Then Halon it is! So you like the separate systems idea? I like the Auto-Temp sense in the cockpit idea. Didn't think about the getting knocked out part. Good suggestion although I'm not sure if Safecraft makes a bottle head with both push/pull and temp. I'll have to call them. The Auto-Temp sensors in the engine bay come in different temperature settings so I can have it go off at whatever temperature fire detection and suppression dictates. One of the reasons I'm thinking Auto-Temp sensors in the engine bay is sometimes when your engine catches fire you don't notice it in those first critical seconds. I think it would be better to have the system go off and suppress it before it really gets out of hand! Your thoughts?

Thanks for your post!

John

[ccracin]

John,

First, after what I went through I hope I can help anyone stay safe in that situation. Also, I'm not saying FE-36 is worse than Halon. I just have no experience with it. The reason I say 2 seperate set-ups is that if you only have an engine fire, you don't want it going off in the cock-pit. Halon displaces all the oxygen not to mention it can slightly burn you from the cold if it hits bare skin right out of the nozzle. My crew guy accidentally discharged my system in line-up one night (oops). It took my breathe away quick. Here is how I would set-up the system.

1- 2.5 to 5# bottle for the drivers compartment. 2 nozzle for each seat. 1 pointing at feet and one at chest. Use an auto temp. trigger as primary. If they have a button to add then great.

1- 5# bottle for engine and fuel tank. 2 nozzles in engine compartment on near the firewall pointing toward the engine. This creates a barrier between you and a fire. put 1 nozzle pointing at the fuel tank between the drivers compartment and the tank. Again this is to create a barrier. Use a push/pull to trigger.

JMO. I give you alot of credit, most people wouldn't even think of this. I was amazed when I was racing. Guys would spend thousands on trick parts to go fast. Then they would buy a $79 fire suit and a $79 helmet and say they can't afford anything else. I had $2000 worth of gear I wore before you look at the fire system, fuel cell etc. I am able to write this because of it.

Your building one of the coolest cars I have ever seen and still have the right priorities.

PS. I have the fire on tape. If I can find it I'll try to load it and post it.

Later.

[novanutcase]

Originally Posted by ccracin

John,

First, after what I went through I hope I can help anyone stay safe in that situation. Also, I'm not saying FE-36 is worse than Halon. I just have no experience with it. The reason I say 2 seperate set-ups is that if you only have an engine fire, you don't want it going off in the cock-pit. Halon displaces all the oxygen not to mention it can slightly burn you from the cold if it hits bare skin right out of the nozzle. My crew guy accidentally discharged my system in line-up one night (oops). It took my breathe away quick. Here is how I would set-up the system.

1- 2.5 to 5# bottle for the drivers compartment. 2 nozzle for each seat. 1 pointing at feet and one at chest. Use an auto temp. trigger as primary. If they have a button to add then great.

1- 5# bottle for engine and fuel tank. 2 nozzles in engine compartment on near the firewall pointing toward the engine. This creates a barrier between you and a fire. put 1 nozzle pointing at the fuel tank between the drivers compartment and the tank. Again this is to create a barrier. Use a push/pull to trigger.

JMO. I give you alot of credit, most people wouldn't even think of this. I was amazed when I was racing. Guys would spend thousands on trick parts to go fast. Then they would buy a $79 fire suit and a $79 helmet and say they can't afford anything else. I had $2000 worth of gear I wore before you look at the fire system, fuel cell etc. I am able to write this because of it.

Your building one of the coolest cars I have ever seen and still have the right priorities.

PS. I have the fire on tape. If I can find it I'll try to load it and post it.

Later.

GREAT suggestions! Will definitely keep these in mind on setup of the system!

I have a question regarding bottle placement. I was thinking of mounting both bottles on each side of the trunk but after your nozzle placement suggestion of one pointing at the gas tank I'm wondering if the trunk is not such a good place to put them. Do you think it would get hot enough to affect the performance of the system if the gas tank caught fire? Maybe it would be best to put the bottles under the rear seats?

John

[ccracin]

Originally Posted by novanutcase

GREAT suggestions! Will definitely keep these in mind on setup of the system!

I have a question regarding bottle placement. I was thinking of mounting both bottles on each side of the trunk but after your nozzle placement suggestion of one pointing at the gas tank I'm wondering if the trunk is not such a good place to put them. Do you think it would get hot enough to affect the performance of the system if the gas tank caught fire? Maybe it would be best to put the bottles under the rear seats?

John

I think it woould depend on the configuration. If the tank is going to be seperated from the trunk by the trunk floor, then putting them in the trunk may be OK. If the tank is exposed in the trunk then I would put them under the seat. Now that I am thinking about this, the bottle with the auto temp. trigger may have to be in the driver's compartment. The new bottle I have with the auto temp valve on it is just that. The Valve has the "sensor" built into it so it would have to be in the drivers compartment. In fact under the backseat may be to far from you and insulated to much. Can you fit a 2.5# under the dash or in a console if your running one? Sorry to throw a wrench in the works. Isn't that always the way, try to stuff 10# in a 5# bag! I'm sure you'll work it out.

[novanutcase]

Originally Posted by ccracin

I think it woould depend on the configuration. If the tank is going to be seperated from the trunk by the trunk floor, then putting them in the trunk may be OK. If the tank is exposed in the trunk then I would put them under the seat. Now that I am thinking about this, the bottle with the auto temp. trigger may have to be in the driver's compartment. The new bottle I have with the auto temp valve on it is just that. The Valve has the "sensor" built into it so it would have to be in the drivers compartment. In fact under the backseat may be to far from you and insulated to much. Can you fit a 2.5# under the dash or in a console if your running one? Sorry to throw a wrench in the works. Isn't that always the way, try to stuff 10# in a 5# bag! I'm sure you'll work it out.

Do you think 2.5 would be enough? What are the dimensions of a 5 lb bottle? If it's small enough I might be able to fit it under the dash. I don't think there'll be enough room under the console! I wonder of they make a temp sensor extension that you could run out to length?

John

[ccracin]

Originally Posted by novanutcase

Do you think 2.5 would be enough? What are the dimensions of a 5 lb bottle? If it's small enough I might be able to fit it under the dash. I don't think there'll be enough room under the console! I wonder of they make a temp sensor extension that you could run out to length?

John

I guess thhat depends n how fast you can get out of the car and the size of the fire. The 5# worked great for me. I can say I don't think I would want to try to hold my breath for a 10# bottle to go in the drivers compartment. I can check the dimensions of my 5# bottle this week. It is over at my dad's shop. I'm guessing 4-5" in diameter and 14-16" long.

[dave96dcm]

Why not do 2 2.5 lbs under the dash, 1 for each front seat, and a 5 lb for the engine compartment.

[syborg tt]

Man I hope by the time we start cutting up the Camaro Chris will have hinges for the 2nd Gen Camaro's. Because those are some nice looking hinges.

ps - thanks for the Kudo's on the hood pins. They are an awesome piece and yep there also going on the Camaro.

Originally Posted by novanutcase

Hey All!

[

Fesler Hood Hinges

Forget The Rest And Buy The Best!

Pictures do not do these hood hinges justice! They are absolutely BEAUTIFUL!

[CENTER]Wilson Hood Pins

Ron Wilson was nice enough to send me a pair to mock up and see if I wanted to use them. Marty was right! If you are thinking of running hood pins these are top notch! Nothing even touches these for quality and looks!

[novanutcase]

Thanks Chevy Rumble!

The kind folks at Buckaroo Communications gave the '66 a page of ink!

Thanks Steve Anderson and Josh Mishler for considering the car worthy! Thanks for making it happen Rodger!

John