...

Go Back   Lateral-g Forums > Technical Discussions > Race Cars and Modern Pro-Street
User Name
Password



Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #41  
Old 10-16-2014, 11:23 PM
Track Junky's Avatar
Track Junky Track Junky is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 3,469
Thanks: 2
Thanked 12 Times in 7 Posts
Default

I think the mid plate is a good choice on this one. From the looks of that motor I don't feel the 4 bolts alone on that front plate will hold over a long period of time.
__________________
Gaetano Cosentino
Reply With Quote
  #42  
Old 10-16-2014, 11:43 PM
dstryr dstryr is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Gilroy CA
Posts: 130
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Track Junky View Post
I think the mid plate is a good choice on this one. From the looks of that motor I don't feel the 4 bolts alone on that front plate will hold over a long period of time.
Plus he has access to all the machines and tooling he wants...just time ?
__________________
Dennis

www.creationsultd.com

1969 Chevelle Build - Meanstreets Performance Style
https://lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=39456
Reply With Quote
  #43  
Old 10-17-2014, 03:27 AM
358Mustang 358Mustang is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Campbell, CA
Posts: 73
Thanks: 1
Thanked 3 Times in 2 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chassisworks View Post
This is a cool project! I wouldn't stress too much about getting a chassis fixture as long as your work surface is flat and level. We have sold thousands of chassis kits that were built in garages around the world. Just keep measuring three times and weld once.

Regarding the engine mounting, if you have a front plate you definitely need to run a mid plate. It's going to reduce binding, increase safety, and increase chassis rigidity. Also, you should run a torque limiter. This will keep you from cracking the tranny case, or the billet front plate.


You weld the stub coming off the rod-end to the frame rail then the other end bolts to the engine mount boss.
Thanks for the input! I didnt build a full mid plate, but I made some "wings" that bolt to the bell housing...

I think they will be more than suffiecent. They mount off two of the 7/16" bolts and I also made them so that they will take a .500 dowel pin and they will piggy back onto the bores that locate the bellhousing to the engine.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Track Junky View Post
I think the mid plate is a good choice on this one. From the looks of that motor I don't feel the 4 bolts alone on that front plate will hold over a long period of time.
My thoughts too.. I think what I've got should work pretty good now.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dstryr View Post
Plus he has access to all the machines and tooling he wants...just time ?
I know... Too bad I have to keep production running so I dont have time to make things like I want. But that is what you are for....

I have some spindle pins I need machined.....



More billet goodies.

I've got to yard the motor out so I can build the mounts off the frame for the "mid plate" . What a pain, my garage is stuffed full!!

Last edited by 358Mustang; 10-17-2014 at 03:40 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #44  
Old 03-18-2015, 12:23 AM
Flash68's Avatar
Flash68 Flash68 is offline
Moderator
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: NorCal
Posts: 9,180
Thanks: 58
Thanked 158 Times in 104 Posts
Default

How's this one coming along?
__________________
2004 NASA AIX Mustang LS2 #14
1964 Lincoln Continental
2014 4 tap Keezer
Reply With Quote
  #45  
Old 01-21-2018, 01:54 AM
DBasher's Avatar
DBasher DBasher is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Renton, Wa
Posts: 1,911
Thanks: 254
Thanked 271 Times in 79 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Flash68 View Post
How's this one coming along?
What he said, I’d love to see some progress on this one.
Reply With Quote
  #46  
Old 09-15-2020, 02:39 PM
358Mustang 358Mustang is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Campbell, CA
Posts: 73
Thanks: 1
Thanked 3 Times in 2 Posts
Default

Forgot about this place... Haha

Well I ended up building another car starting about 2018, the old track coupe is sitting in the corner of a shop collecting dust with the front end still cut off..

Finally got this engine together as of early 2020 and on the dyno, that was a big feat for me. Had a few issues , but nothing related to the engine .. Had a modified set of dyno headers that broke on multiple pulls so we had to pull those off and weld them up. The electric water pump wasnt sealing to the old yates belt drive so I had to rig up some spacers to sandwhich in place, and then the dry sump tank was puking a bunch of oil. Luckily I brought mine (which was a proper baffled tank) and that fixed the issue. The scavenge in the dyno tank has no sort of baffle or anything where it exits back into the tank so it must have just been making a tornado of oil going back into there with the 5 stage pump.. All in all that was a fun (stressful) day..

The aim with this car was to clean up a lot of fab work that I did on my last car (which started out as a project when I was 17 and no idea what I was doing, other than the fact that I had welders / plasma cutters near by ) , as well as keep it "street" legal

Rear end is a typical 3 link setup w/ panhard.

Front end I designed and built based off a cortex radial spindle.

Decided to go full standalone EFI sort of last minute, so I have been spending a lot of time (and cash ) trying to get that wired up and going.. This car will be running by the end of the year!!
Attached Images
       

Last edited by 358Mustang; 09-15-2020 at 02:45 PM.
Reply With Quote
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to 358Mustang For This Useful Post:
DBasher (12-07-2022), WILWAXU (09-15-2020)
  #47  
Old 09-15-2020, 02:42 PM
358Mustang 358Mustang is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Campbell, CA
Posts: 73
Thanks: 1
Thanked 3 Times in 2 Posts
Default

Sorry the pics are huge, Im a noob
Reply With Quote
  #48  
Old 09-15-2020, 03:42 PM
358Mustang 358Mustang is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Campbell, CA
Posts: 73
Thanks: 1
Thanked 3 Times in 2 Posts
Default

Couple more. Decided to go DBW to compliment the ECU and its capabilities. using a unit from EFI hardware (uses a bosch DBW unit encased in a nice aluminum housing) The long term plan will be a 6 speed air shifted sequential but that is a little pricey so for now the 4 speed is going in. Plan on using a strain gage in the shifter for flat upshifts.
Attached Images
  
Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to 358Mustang For This Useful Post:
camcojb (09-16-2020)
  #49  
Old 09-15-2020, 08:33 PM
Flash68's Avatar
Flash68 Flash68 is offline
Moderator
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: NorCal
Posts: 9,180
Thanks: 58
Thanked 158 Times in 104 Posts
Default

Gitter dun! Thing is a bad ass!
__________________
2004 NASA AIX Mustang LS2 #14
1964 Lincoln Continental
2014 4 tap Keezer
Reply With Quote
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Flash68 For This Useful Post:
358Mustang (09-17-2020), camcojb (09-16-2020)
  #50  
Old 09-17-2020, 04:57 PM
carbuff's Avatar
carbuff carbuff is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Austin, Tx
Posts: 1,317
Thanks: 11
Thanked 19 Times in 13 Posts
Default

I like that DBW setup. Does the 'kit' you mentioned include a bracket or did you fab that yourself? Have you confirmed it runs through the full range of motion? Not that I've looked at many of those, but I like how this setup is done. Good job.
Reply With Quote
Reply


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 06:25 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright Lateral-g.net