68Firebird

[68400BIRD]

Finally, the car is down on the ground. Just checking pinion angle and to see if the wheels will work from my last car.




I kind of like the old school look but don't want the tires sticking out to far. What do you think of the rears I will probably go with a little less width on the next set of tires if I keep these on the car. I also have a set of RallyII's in 15". New rims and tires are not in the budget right now so I have to work with what I have.

[two68s]

The tires and wheels look great. It's refreshing to see an old school look around here. Seeing way to many 18"-20" wheels on classic muscle these days.

[68400BIRD]

Originally Posted by two68s

The tires and wheels look great. It's refreshing to see an old school look around here. Seeing way to many 18"-20" wheels on classic muscle these days.

Thanks, I appreciate the comments. I still like the old school look as long as the tires are not sticking out of the wheel wells and you do not have air shocks . I might still check out my rally rims but I will still have a good size tire on a 15" rim.

[Josh69]

Originally Posted by 68400BIRD

I'm not a fan of the yellow wires either. But, it was part of a package deal. I bought a set of heads,cam,lifters,and the wires from a member on this board. I figured since they were 8.8's I would keep them for a while. When I get some extra money I will get a set of black Taylor wires.

Hey, you can't have bigs n littles without some yellow Accel wires!

J/K, I sold them to him, so gotta convince him it was still a great deal LOL! BTW, lemme know if you want to sell me my heads back, I'm ready to switch back to gas, this E85 stuff is getting annoying. Want some milled 670's?

I like the look of the Weld's on there, they don't stick out too far, considering that is the look most guys went for with that set-up. I'd pull out your Rally's and order up the stencil kit, repaint them, polish the trim rings and see what you like better. I still think that my car looked just as good the day I rolled it home from the paint booth on the 14" rallye's as it does with the 18's on it.

Oh yeah, great work BTW, I know what it's like to deal with engines by yourself in two car garages in the middle of winter!

[68400BIRD]

Still working on the car. Had a few set backs. Still working on the rear pinion angle. I want to make sure it is real close before welding it solid. I pulled the rear end apart and noticed that both axles were shot. Ordered up a set of axles,bearings,seals, and wheel studs. Wasn't really in the budget. Oh well!!

[68400BIRD]

I didn't like how the new sway bar mounted to the frame. With the bigger bar the brackets and bushings did not line up very well. I also thought that some spirited driving might pull the small bolts out of the threaded frame holes. I ended up using one of the original holes and drilling a new one. I also went up one bolt size. This is what I ended up with. I took a grade eight bolt and welded on a tab. I then dropped the bolt through the hole inside the frame. The tab hits the frame and keeps it from spinning. I decided I wanted the front bushings to have grease zerks to help with any possible squeaking. I drilled holes and tapped them for the new fittings.

[68400BIRD]

My axles came a few months ago. I borrowed a ball joint tool to install the studs.

Started to mock up my rear brakes.

[Josh69]

Lookin' good!

[68400BIRD]

Started on the front end steering. All new Moog parts, Speed Tech tie rod sleeves, and a newer steering box.

[68400BIRD]

My first car that I restored was a 2nd gen Camaro and most of the OER parts did not fit very well. I was thinking that the 1st gen parts would be better. LOL RIGHT!!
I spent around five hours installing the dash. It would not pull down corrrectly with the original four studs. So I had to drill holes in my new dash and very carefully drill holes in the dash pad. I cut a drill bit down so I could not drill through the dash pad.