Orange Peel

[GM Muscle]

Also I wanted to add that when I block body filler and primer I usaully use a one gallon and 5 gallon paint stick. They really seem to come out a lot flatter than the durablocks and are pretty much free! They still have slight flex to them which really helps on curved surfaces like roofs!

[TreySmith]

How do you fix the low spots? Just add more primer and reblock?

[kttrucks]

Great thread! the paint job is nothing more than the reflection of the quality of prep work. it looks like there are some talented paint & bodymen on this forum.

Good luck with your paintjob.... KT

[brucel]

Originally Posted by GM Muscle

Also I wanted to add that when I block body filler and primer I usaully use a one gallon and 5 gallon paint stick. They really seem to come out a lot flatter than the durablocks and are pretty much free! They still have slight flex to them which really helps on curved surfaces like roofs!

Instead of using the paint stick as a bolck, have some lexan cut to the same size and thickness. It's stiffer,flatter and will last a life time.

[GM Muscle]

Originally Posted by brucel

Instead of using the paint stick as a bolck, have some lexan cut to the same size and thickness. It's stiffer,flatter and will last a life time.

you could also make whatever length you need.. great idea...

[GM Muscle]

Originally Posted by TreySmith

How do you fix the low spots? Just add more primer and reblock?

if youve preformed your body work teadiously then you shouldnt have that problem. if you do, then i would suggest some metal glaze and a spot prime..

[Ron Fox]

[QUOTE=GM Muscle;226838]first and foremost you want a straight, flat canvas. body work and prep are going to be the key to straight car then the paint comes. if you think about it logically, think about a million tiny balls of paint. as you spray, you are "stacking" these particles across the panel. since you have reducer and they are liquid they will melt into each other but not completely they still dont lay out 100% flat. layer after layer will build up and while it may look flat youve actually created a very mellow ripple.

Great example GM. I have never painted a car but that puts a visual perspective on the process. Hopefully I will be able to help out on my car when it comes time to prep the body for paint. (I have put in many hours helping in the area's I am capable with like cleaning, cabinet media blasting, etc.) I hang out at the shop watching and trying to learn all that I can.

Ron
1969 Firebird, 4-speed Coupe

[GM Muscle]

once you get the car ready for paint, id clean it as best you can a few times over.. its nice to get in all the knooks and crannies with an air blower and a tack cloth. then tape her up tighter than dick's hatband. i usually backtape every hole with 2" then stretch the paper as tight as i can and trim it out with my pocket knife(razor would be better) the less paper you have flapping, the better. the paint will dry on the paper and when you shake it on the next coat with the air coming out of the gun. it could come off in your paint causing "trash". also try to avoid and folds in the paper and if you do have them, tape them shut. the paint will float around in those pockets and dry up.. then on your next coat you blow them out of the pocket and they end up causing more trash. also dont forget that 75% of the trash in a paint job comes from the painter himself. cloth and dust off your clothes, hair, etc. a paint suit isnt only for personal protection. using the right reducer will help reduce trash and nibs but all theses little precautionary steps really add up.

[Ron Fox]

How many coats of paint does a car get or need. The thinner the coat the better, right?

I did not think about the paint coming off the paper.

Thanks,

Ron
1969 Firebird, 4-speed Coupe

[GM Muscle]

it all depends on the color, paint line, painter, etc. i use ppg deltron and usually 4 coats. just mix it and spray it like the p sheet says.