Calling ALL pro's, I JUST CANT TAKE IT ANYMORE! - Page 5 - Lateral-g Forums

70rs · #41 10-10-2009, 09:30 PM

Do you have my email address? PM me when you have time please.

David Pozzi · #42 10-11-2009, 08:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by camaro1969

#@$% #**& !!!!!!!!!!!

i dont know what to do, issue is back, i thought i was able to do it, but i cant...

i called blake at killer customs, $90.00 an hour, may take a few hours, plus travel time, hate to do it, but i cant afford to pay over 200.00 for something that should be done so easy! I even called a local automotive place, and they told me they dont want to get involved in that, and actually hung up on me! i removed both starters and car is just sitting there,, kills me to see it like this.. dont know what i can do!

I used that one that looks like this, and its hard to measure when the engines in the car, i have less than a foot of space to work under, and pinion is hidden

http://i17.ebayimg.com/03/i/001/33/a1/d814_1_sbl.JPG

The one i have that looks like this (below), the shim that moves the pinion close and further to the flywheels (so that i have a gap of .100 inch, i cant even get the thinest filler gauge in between! and i have already installed the provided shim

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/RS/SR/...91066258_L.jpg

This small starter uses different mounting bolts! Be very careful in matching starter bolts to the starter!
That small GM "metric" starter is first off, not a good starter, it lacks power, and it uses different diameter bolt shanks than the older large starters. They are still 3/8" coarse thread in the block but lengths and shank diameters are slightly different between that one and the old standard large starters. Use the wrong bolts, and the starter will twist after a few starts and will no longer be 90 degrees to the flywheel and bind. The large and small OEM GM starters require bolts with knurl where the bolt engages the block.

A tilton type mini starter should use knurled shank bolts too.

**GregWeld** · #43 10-11-2009, 08:50 PM

I would have ASSumed that this "newly purchased" starter came with the proper bolts - and some shims even????

camaro1969 · #44 10-12-2009, 11:13 AM

yes, the small starter came with grade 8 knurled bolts, but the mini torqure starter, that didnt, i didnt install there bolts OR starter. I spent 4 horus under the car working with it, and i think i may got it for a bit.. my alternator no longer gets hot, just warm, but after 3 minutes of running (idling only) the battery juice was just drained, barely wanted to turn over for the second time! so maybe thats my problem now, the alternator not charging my bat, and therefore starter gets out align and causes my grinding...

i only have on wire going from my alternator to my starter solenoid, which is on the same bolt as my red 12 gauge batter cable, which is returned to the battery.

**GregWeld** · #45 10-12-2009, 11:32 AM

Vic --

Your one wire alternator is hooked up fine --- a HEAVY gauge wire from the lug on the alternator = down to the POSTIVE battery cable terminal on your starter..

Now here's the thing that most don't know about ALTERNATORS -- they have to be "rev'd" to a certain RPM BEFORE they'll get "excited" and start charging.

Given that you're most likely just starting the car - and letting it idle - might explain why it's not kicking into charge mode.

Give your battery a good overnight charge -- get your motor started -- then don't forget that all important cam break in -- while you're doing that - you can drop a volt ohm meter on the battery and check that it's being charged.

ccracin · #46 10-12-2009, 11:47 AM

You beat me to it Greg1 Very good advice. I'll have to look, but there is an old circle track trick for one wire alternators. You can hook up a switch to manually "excite" the alternator to charge. However, when the switch is off, the alternator does NOT charge. This was so while racing, you could turn it off and not rob power. During caution or pace laps, you could turn it on and add some juice. It was very simple if I recall. Maybe someone can chime in before I dig for it.

Using the correct bolts is also a very good call. I ASSumed just like Greg that the starters came with the correct bolts.

You can buy shim material From McMaster Carr or MSC. It may take time, but if you buy like .010", you can trace your shim that was provided and cut it with an X-acto knife. Be careful, but it can be done. Then just cut as many as you need and stack them up. Worth a shot to try the mini starter.

Good Luck!

camaro1969 · #47 10-12-2009, 01:16 PM

thanks

im intereted in the trick your talking about, would be nice to have the car start at least 3 times before the battery is completely drained.

Is it normal thought for the the old cars, that if you start it, and the battery isnt charging, until driving, that you can only maybe start it 1 or 2 times before theres not enough juice to start?

I have my rad fan connected directly right now to cool it during the idle, plus doors open, so courtesy lights are on, heater fan is also blowing so the bats taking a beat without it actually charging.

ccracin · #48 10-12-2009, 02:33 PM

Depends on how much cranking is needed to get it started. If you are doing the cam break in, the idle should be high enough to charge the battery. Go to Harbor Freight and get your own battery tester. Fine for personal use. When it gets started see if you are charging. I'll try to dig up the switch trick. I can't promise anything. It was quite awhile ago I did it. I later changed to 16 and 18 volt stuff.

Quote:

Originally Posted by camaro1969

thanks

im intereted in the trick your talking about, would be nice to have the car start at least 3 times before the battery is completely drained.

Is it normal thought for the the old cars, that if you start it, and the battery isnt charging, until driving, that you can only maybe start it 1 or 2 times before theres not enough juice to start?

I have my rad fan connected directly right now to cool it during the idle, plus doors open, so courtesy lights are on, heater fan is also blowing so the bats taking a beat without it actually charging.

**GregWeld** · #49 10-12-2009, 02:56 PM

Vic --

One more thought on the grinding noise you're hearing while it's running or starting...

Did you use the proper flywheel and or flexplate bolts?? They are "special" to the application... and have a thin - weird looking head (how's that for a description)...

Use the wrong ones -- and you're going to have all manor of racket!

Also - I've helped guys that have installed the wrong "dust cover" on the bottom of the bellhousing -- It covers the open flywheel/flexplate.... and that can make one hell of a racket if it has some kind of interference.

camaro1969 · #50 10-12-2009, 04:58 PM

yes, I bought my flex plate and torqure convertor bolts from the autopart store, used the correct thing head short thread bolts.

dust cover is not install yet because ive been fiddling non stop with the starter! Grinding has not occured again, and ive turned it over 3 times now!

what RPM does the alternator start to charge?