81 Malibu "Uncaged" Performance Therapy project thread

[NOT A TA]

The last prize shipment for the Malibu from the Performance Therapy contest arrived!! Each company asked me to "make a list" of what I wanted from their company for the project and so I'd given MSD a list of things I wanted for the new engine, nitrous control, and a shift light. Here's what I recieved! Sweet deal eh? THANKS MSD!!!!!

Pro Billet Distributor
Programable 6AL-2 box The new model that gets programmed with a laptop and has dual rev limiters.
Blaster 2 coil
8.5 Superconductor "make your own" wire set in black.
6' Pro boot guard Headers and wires always seem to be a sore spot for me with a lightning show on occasion.
Shrinksleeves
Wire number set I'm getting old, don't want to make a mistake in the dark in the pits checking plugs or something. LOL
Timing tapes for the balancer
RPM activated window switch Module to control nitrous eventally
LED stand alone shift light
2 sets RPM module sets one for nitrous activation switch, and one set for the shift light
Plug wire holders

My car didn't have a factory tach. I've got a couple old aftermarket tachs (without shift lights) and I'll see if I can get one hooked up, so combined with the MSD shift light I should be set there. I had the nice MSD terminal crimp tool already so I'm set to make a custom wire set.

[NOT A TA]

I didn't have a long enough piece of vinyl to make the rollover without a seam. Hand stitching the center seam came out fine so I test fitted the pieces and clamped them in place with paint sticks so I could see the material would lay when finished. The original vinyl piece and padding were sewn to the cardboard shelf. Thats not going to be possible with the hardboard so I've got to try and figure out a good way to bind them. Will test on scraps.

One of the guys at the machine shop gave me a nice straight stock timing chain cover he'd sandblasted and primed but never used. It was from an engine with an 8" balancer and I'm using 6" so I ground off the spot welds for the pointer to remove it and will use a bolt on pointer. A little more grinding to smooth the welds, bead blast a bit, and it'll be ready for the Krylon touch!

[Evan Iroc-Z]

This is a fantastic thread. I love the detail you are paying to each and every step of the process. I am really excited to see how the car comes out! Good luck with the rest of the budget build!

[NOT A TA]

Originally Posted by Evan Iroc-Z

This is a fantastic thread. I love the detail you are paying to each and every step of the process. I am really excited to see how the car comes out! Good luck with the rest of the budget build!

Thanks Evan! A lot of stuff in this build is kinda "basic" for this forum but not everyone can drop big loot on a build, and for many of us, it's a case of money when there's no time and no money when there's lots of time. Not having a big budget at any given point never stops me from playing with cars, I just modify the gameplan. With this car I'd originally just planned on repainting it again and putting it back into DD status until I won the contest. If it weren't for the additional expenses incurred by installing the prizes from the contest I probably would have just bought a reproduction package tray, or just kept running the original 6 cylinder engine etc. The prizes changed the plan this time! LOL

I tried a few ways of making the vinyl rollover using various materials and tools available to me already and here's what I came up with.

1. Tack vinyl with trim adhesive to the edge of the shelf to keep it from moving.
2. Tack 3/8" batting with adhesive along the edge of the piece with about 5/8" on the shelf.
3. Separate batting in the middle along the 5/8" wide section. (I cut out the upper part of the split batting in the pics below so you can see what I'm doing.)
4. Tack paint sticks cut down to 5/8" width on top of the batting with adhesive.
5. Use A type spring clamps to hold everything tight.
6. Drill 13/64 holes through everything for pop rivets.
7. Install 3/16" medium length aluminum pop rivets.

When I do the shelf the sub box material will already be on it and there will be a thin layer of the batting on top of the paint sticks. When the seatback is slid down to lock it in position in the car, it will pull the vinyl rollover down.

[NOT A TA]

Rear shelf project is on temporary hold waiting on a saw to cut the speaker holes nicely. Meanwhile I finished up the rods and I've been working on the heads for the engine. I cut the heads for installation of hardened exhaust valve seats. Installed the seats (they get pounded in), made a bowl blend cut, then 3 angle cut for both intakes and exhaust while checking heights. Next was a cut around the edge of the chamber to unshroud the valves. You can't get the full effect of running bigger valves without unshrouding the edge close to the side of the chamber so they can breathe. Good camera's still dead so I can't get really good pics of the bits used because the picture definition isn't good enough.



Cutting the edge of the chamber to unshroud the intake valve in this pic. Chamber on left is done, right is still stock. Unshrouding exhausts gets done next.

[NOT A TA]

I keep spending a little time on my own heads at the machine shop. Funny, but hundreds of heads have passed through my hands at the shop while mine sit on a shelf next to me! I've been there a while now and learned a lot, also realize how much calculating, measuring, machining, parts matching, etc. goes into the building of performance engines. I work on mine an hour or two here and there after I work on other peoples stuff. Kinda like a roofer with a leaky roof. Everybody else comes first. LOL Soooo.... almost all the work on my heads gets done between 11PM and 2 AM! AHAHAHA Last night was no exception and I stopped working on my heads about 1:30 AM. Here's the latest update.

To measure the valve stem height while cutting the valve seats a special gauge is used. The base of the gauge is held against the spring seat and then the valve to be used for that chamber is inserted and pressed tightly against the seat. The valve stem pushes against a plunger in the gauge which measures how far the stem protrudes. As each valve seat is cut the stem height is checked occasionally so the stem heights will be very, very close when done and the seats are cut to a almost equal depth. A procedure later insures all the stem heights are exactly the same.



As a young man I always thought a multi angle valve cut required separate steps for each angle, however they're done in one step. The tool for cutting the valve seats cuts all the angles at the same time. The cutting blade is adjustable and is set for the diameter of the valve, then a pilot is inserted into the valve guide of the seat to be cut. The head has been leveled to the drill press and the pilot keeps the cutting tool straight with the valve guide. There's a spring that gets slid onto the pilot that pushes the cutting tool up away from the valve seat until the drill press pushes it down. The seat is then cut and intermittantly the stem height is checked, once the stem height is correct you're done and move on to the next valve.



Because the cutting tool needs to be moved out of the way to constantly check the stem height etc. the tool is not mounted in the drill chuck but rather an attachment with a notch in it is mounted in the drill press and the tool slides into it as the press is lowered. A small bar on the tool fits in the groove which spins the cutting tool.

[NOT A TA]

Had an opportunity to show a main cap with oil passages opened up next to my untouched cap before opening up mine, so one more thing's done and here's pics.



My cap isn't finished in the pic below but I was waiting for the compressor to catch up because a couple of us were using a lot of air so it was a good time to take a pic.



Kinda out of the normal order of procedures but I had some time, so I did the grinding to blend in the bowl cut with a stone on a grinder. Now the bowls are opened up with a nice radius to the exhaust seats.

[NOT A TA]

When I left off on the package shelf I was waiting for a saw from a buddy. I could have chewed the speaker holes like a beaver by the time I got the saw! Anyway, I got it this week and got right on the shelf.



With the holes cut I moved onto getting the pieces ready to create the rollover to the rear seatback. I cut down paint sticks with a utility knife against a straight edge, then pinched them all together and sanded them all to the same width. Not really the optimal way to do this but the paint sticks were free and already here so....





Next I drilled the holes for the speaker grill screws then used 3 M spray adhesive and stuck the speaker box material to the hardboard shelf.



Then the time consuming process of attaching the rollover. I decided to rivet the strips to pinch the vinyl rollover and carpet material. Holes through the paint sticks were drilled. The pieces were clamped in place and the holes for the rivets were melted with a mini soldering iron through the vinyl and carpet. This prevents the material from wrapping up on the drill bit. Then the holes were drilled through the hardboard. Once the holes were set I inserted rivets in each to keep the pieces aligned while I pulled each rivet and used washers on the backside so the rivets wouldn't pull through the hardboard.



A section of padding was glued to the rollover similar to the original and gives the rollover a factory look. The rear seatback holds the rollover down when it's installed in the car. I left extra material on the ends and will trim to fit when I put the shelf in the car.



I looked around for some black machine screws for the speaker grills but didn't have any so I splurged and bought some new ones for a whopping $1.88 LOL The only cash spent to build the shelf was 6-7 bucks for a sheet of hardboard and the screws. With the speaker grills installed the shelf is ready! I may use some dum dum or other deadener to be sure the rivets or speaker grill bolts don't rattle when it's installed in the car.

[WSSix]

Thanks for posting all this John. I don't have time to read it all now since I don't have internet at home (I'm hanging at McDonald's right now, lol). I intend though as I also intend to keep the costs down on my LT1 build by building "smart" instead of just throwing every part I can find at the engine. Keep up the good work sir.

[NOT A TA]

Originally Posted by WSSix

Thanks for posting all this John. I don't have time to read it all now since I don't have internet at home (I'm hanging at McDonald's right now, lol). I intend though as I also intend to keep the costs down on my LT1 build by building "smart" instead of just throwing every part I can find at the engine. Keep up the good work sir.

My pleasure Trey, glad to see you're enjoying it!

Three words for this thread update.... GRAND NATIONAL REAR. For a mild build G-body this is the affordable bolt in holy grail of rears. For years I've been outbid on Ebay, missed ones on CL and in local traders, looked for cars with them I could part out etc. etc. etc. I spotted a listing on a forum for a rear when I was taking a break while working online last Sat. and picked it up today.

So now I've got a 8.5" housing, axles (and spares), posi unit, yoke, and most of the brake components to work with including.... (insert drumroll here) ALUMINUM DRUMS! (+ a spare) The aluminum drums have a lower MOI so they speed up quicker as well as lowering unsprung weight. Hey, I need all the help I can get to make this car go! ahahaha So now I need to find a set of gears, and a rebuild kit etc. and then I'll have a rear that should hold up behind the 357 I'm building that I can put in while I'm doing the Hotchkis suspension install. Here's a pic of the parts I got. In the boxes are a brake hardware kit and new wheel cylinders Dan included above and beyond the deal.