What do the other TIG guys do to sharpen your tungsten? - Page 5 - Lateral-g Forums

SuperB70 · #41 11-24-2011, 11:08 AM

Preston, I'm with you. Only that I use a cordless drill to turn my tungsten.

Place I use to work had sharpener, its great tool but I'm not getting one.

I never had any problems with arg at to start of welding anyway, after couple stuck to puddle chances things quite radically.

rwhite692 · #42 11-24-2011, 03:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by preston

Well I will get slammed for this but - I just use a 80 grit flapper disc on my hand grinder to sharpen my tungsten, and its whatever flapper disc I happen to have. It mostly gets used on aluminum but is is FAR from a clean disc. I am not the best Tig welder in the world but I do all right, and don't really have a problem with a wide or wandering arc. I do clean the crap out of my aluminum and rod before welding or else I get bad contamination. Perhaps having a dirtier tungsten is why I have to be so meticulous about cleaning my parts, but if it is welding clean it is welding clean. I might try using a virgin disc next time I am TIG'ing to see if it helps.

Just another data point.

That will work, since you are grinding (generally) longitudinally so your abrasions on the electrode will be, also.

ccm399 · #43 11-25-2011, 11:22 AM

Slightly off topic but... I finally tried to weld after my eye injury... One eyed TIG welding is NOT so easy.... After a couple rods I was doing OK but even then there are a lot of things to watch with one eye and NO depth perception.

Anyway, more on topic.... I did try different tip point angles, very interesting results. More practice it needed with that though as I was more concerned about learning to weld all over...

One other thing I tested. Turning down the argon flow. I noticed that my regulator had gotten bumped and was up at almost 20, I turned it down to 12, then 10 then 8 and had very good results. I should note that I did this with a gas lens and 1/16 tungsten on .063 3003 H14 and 1/16th 1100 series rod.

Chris

**GregWeld** · #44 11-25-2011, 12:48 PM

I tried to emulate Mario (Doom) trying to TIG weld - and closed one eye.... NFW you can weld like that... it would take years of practice to just get motor skills to take over.

20CFH is way too high on the gas flow - so turning it down was a good move... and a gas lens uses a lower flow to start with - so even if you were flowing 12 you'd have bumped it down to 10 or so.

Pointing makes a difference - I have a sharpener so I can set the degrees (angle) I want and have it uniform every time.... but hand sharpening is not hard.... You taper should be "back" about 2/3ds the dia of the tungsten. And again - there's video on YouTube - and at Miller and Lincoln on this process.

Glad you're getting somewhere - because TIG is fun...

rwhite692 · #45 11-25-2011, 05:47 PM

I have only one good eye so, not much of an option for me, LOL. Some folks say that they can weld better using only one eye.

**Ketzer** · #46 11-26-2011, 03:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rwhite692

I have only one good eye so, not much of an option for me, LOL. Some folks say that they can weld better using only one eye.

x2.

Somehow I manage decent depth perception despite not having steropic vison.

**GregWeld** · #47 11-26-2011, 07:21 AM

Well kudos to you two - because I sure had troubles trying to do it with one eye shut! The depth perception just goes away. Plus - I could see around the corners!

ccm399 · #48 11-27-2011, 08:11 AM

Thank Greg,

I know 20 was way high but I was typically running around 12 but I have it down to 8 now and it is welding nice. I like the the 2/3 angle you mentioned the best so far but each situation requires something a little different.

As for the one eye deal... I used to have two good eyes and the other day was the first time I tried since my injury... COMPLETELY different! Obviously right? Anyway, Other than some dipping for the tungsten (a no no I know) I am doing OK so far.

Chris

Revved · #49 12-05-2011, 04:37 PM

OK... made some huge progress in the last two weeks since I checked in... Got my red tungsten, got my fine wheel on the grinder and what a world of difference!! Much more stable arc and much better puddle control- less contamination issues since I can pull back a little further from the puddle.
This weekend I built an air intake system out of the previously mentioned Vibrant polished tubing and it turned out nice. I didn't scrub down the tubing this time as suggested and had no contamination issues with the polish... (I did verify that TIG doesn't like Sharpie marks though!!

) I had an AH-HAH! moment and most of it was done without filler rod. It was so beautiful!! On these cars I grind the welds flush and the tubing gets painted so I need to be careful not to sink the weld too much- its better for me to have a little material to take off.

Next TIG welding question is what do you use to clean a surface that you know is contaminated? For example trying to fix a pinhole leak in an aluminum radiator that you found after it had been filled?

Thanks for all the advice! It's been a huge help!

**GregWeld** · #50 12-05-2011, 04:57 PM

Looks great!

TIG is one of those "art forms" that is "fussy".... To make it look right... etc. MIG is just point and shoot.. but TIG takes some real knowledge and practice - glad it's working out for you!

No idea on the Radiator question. I don't think anyone repairs aluminum radiators...

Maybe if it's just a pinhole - some good old fashioned "stop leak" gunk... I really just don't know.

You might trying pouring DENATURED ALCOHOL in the radiator - and getting it to run out the pin hole.... and pour some more of it thru the fins in the area of need... and then clean that with some NON CHLORINATED brake cleaner... and then put some JB WELD over the pin hole. I found that info on a racing website. Never done it - but sounds like it would work.