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  #41  
Old 09-25-2012, 05:41 PM
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ironworks ironworks is offline
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Originally Posted by Tom.A View Post
I am always working by myself so I use a Motive Products power bleeder which works but can be messy.
Is there really a fluid that won't eat the paint?
I believe DOT 5 won't but I have never tried it to be sure.
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  #42  
Old 09-25-2012, 05:58 PM
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Originally Posted by coolwelder62 View Post
Very Cool.Rodger I really like the Reservoir,It's Differant. ABC performance in Michigan sells stamp's Deep tub's (Nice pcs.).
ABC has not started production on the tubs for a 70.
Thanks for the pics of how you did this. It helps me trying to see what Im up against.

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  #43  
Old 09-25-2012, 08:22 PM
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I'm sure a 20 can fit, but the style of wheels we are looking at come in 18's and 19's. Plus the larger wheel will raise the ride height. Once we have it on the ground we will make final decisions. At this point we like the 18 and 19 combo we already mocked up.

Just because you can does not always mean you should. That is a phrase for building cars.
I have a 68 chevelle wondering if 295/30/19 would fit the rear without mini tubs I'm going 18x8 front and 19x10 rear, please give me some input greatly appreciated
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  #44  
Old 09-25-2012, 08:23 PM
windycitychev windycitychev is offline
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I have a 68 chevelle wondering if 295/30/19 would fit the rear without mini tubs I'm going 18x8 front and 19x10 rear, please give me some input greatly appreciated
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  #45  
Old 09-26-2012, 01:43 PM
preston preston is offline
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If you are making a mess using your motiv power bleeder you may be using it incorrectly. I believe the instructions say to fill the bleeder pump itself with fluid, but this is totally unnecessary. I just screw mine onto the reservoir and pump it up and go. I don't see how you could possibly make a mess doing this except when you are pouring new fluid into the reservoir and if you can't handle that you may need a funnel

Its funny but with years of hot rodding under my belt, I still think the power bleeder has been the single most useful tool ever made. I do all my work by myself and my wife is good for about 1.3 minutes of help, and I always seem to be bleeding my clutch or brake.

Those LSA/LS9 motors are the bomb too bad they're so expensive. I guess the LSA is pretty reasonable, but hard to buy "the less powerful" engine.
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  #46  
Old 09-27-2012, 09:08 AM
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We sent the shock seats down to the Stitch By Stitch down south for him to reshape and foam the seats to our ideas. Here is where we are at.

I kinda like the direction so far.





We are working on doing a countersunk head rest idea. Kinda like the stock Camaro seats just not as tall.
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  #47  
Old 09-27-2012, 09:18 AM
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Originally Posted by windycitychev View Post
I have a 68 chevelle wondering if 295/30/19 would fit the rear without mini tubs I'm going 18x8 front and 19x10 rear, please give me some input greatly appreciated
I'm sure on what will fit stock. this car had 275/40/17's all the way around. Our Chassis will clear a 305/35-18 and a 345/30/19 or a 20 depending on ride height.
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  #48  
Old 09-28-2012, 07:00 AM
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Further seat progress.





I can see the ideas coming together.
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  #49  
Old 09-28-2012, 07:17 AM
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Oh yeah.... that looks good!


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  #50  
Old 10-17-2012, 11:28 AM
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More progress.

Getting the start of the brake and clutch hardlines.



Seats are getting foam shaping. Notice the 3rd point seat belt loop.




The beginnings of the Billet dash insert. Still working on alot more detail.





We have been slammed in the Solidworks department with chassis sales and building some custom one off frames. So I have not been able to get this one finalized with all the details.

Enjoy
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