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  #41  
Old 11-02-2015, 08:09 AM
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TomM TomM is offline
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4-Link and rear end installed....brake lines next...






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  #42  
Old 11-02-2015, 12:15 PM
cjsgarage cjsgarage is offline
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What did you use to paint the trunk? That looks real nice back there.
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  #43  
Old 11-02-2015, 01:24 PM
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What did you use to paint the trunk? That looks real nice back there.
Thanks, I used rustoleum rust reformer. Wire brushed it real good and wiped it down first. Going to get a coat of Satin black before I hang the tank.

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  #44  
Old 11-03-2015, 01:17 PM
cjsgarage cjsgarage is offline
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the rust reformer is that speckled stuff inside the trunk? or underneath? I meant the speckled stuff inside the trunk
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  #45  
Old 11-03-2015, 03:33 PM
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the rust reformer is that speckled stuff inside the trunk? or underneath? I meant the speckled stuff inside the trunk
DOH...my bad, the stuff in the trunk is spatter paint from Rustoleum. Autozone or O Reilly carry it......rust reformer is underneath.....

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  #46  
Old 11-08-2015, 04:25 PM
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Brakes done....

Fronts...







Rear...may redo these, now that I look at it, not sure I like them up that high



Had to get that done to get the motor in. I was relieved to see that the blower does not stick up above the hood line. So if anybody asks, yes, a LSA engine will fit....







Set the engine forward 1" again. Good thing I did, might have had a clearance issue on the driver's side at the firewall and the wiper motor...








That's all for now...

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  #47  
Old 11-08-2015, 05:46 PM
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That sure looks sweet in there! Feels good doesn't it??
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  #48  
Old 11-09-2015, 04:48 AM
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That sure looks sweet in there! Feels good doesn't it??
Yes sir it does, quite a journey to get to this point. Had to stand back and look at it for a bit.....now it is starting to get fun...


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  #49  
Old 11-18-2015, 07:56 AM
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Default Update....

So, I installed the Lokar kit for a column shift. All went as planned, plenty of clearance and got the selector dialed in at the transmission where the range of travel is correct. If you move it too far back the stroke is too short on the column selector, too far forward and the stroke is too long and won't let you select all the gears. About in the middle is just right...

I did notch the frame support to clear the bolt, but don't think it was needed since I set the engine forward 1". Clears the headers, gets all gears and feels factory...







Next up was the compressor install. I used the Alan grove bracket for a Corvette. Part number 144R A.C. They say it may not work for the LSA, but it does........

A few items of note....

I did move the engine forward as I have said numerous times, probably solely for this reason. The engine frame stand needs to have a hole drilled in it to keep one of the rear compressor bolts from hitting. I used a Sanden 508 compressor, but I understand that the Sanden 708 is almost .25" shorter, so it "might" not hit. I have decided to switch to the Sanden SD7 as it is shorter all the way around. The compressor front ear to pulley distance is less than 1/4" difference, so belt alignment won't be an issue.

Also, I will rework the bracket to allow access to the compressor fittings, as the current configuration won't let that happen. In addition, the #8 fitting on the compressor is very close. Vintage Air makes a "tight fit" fitting, but it might not clear. Too many "might's" for me, so I am switching compressors. Having said all that, the reason it worked on past builds is the accessories were f-body style which is over an inch forward of the Corvette/ CTS accessories drives...

If you will notice in the picture, the supplied tensioner clears the CBR rack just fine...







That is all for now.

T,
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  #50  
Old 11-18-2015, 06:25 PM
WSSix WSSix is offline
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You're doing good work, Tom. I think I would redo those rear brake lines, too. I'd be worried about hitting the exhaust under compression. I like your use of bulkhead fittings on the lines. Gives it a very clean appearance. Good luck!
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