Make sure the distributors sinched. I've had this issue in the past and one of the symptoms was that when I was trying to fire it, the dist would retard itself by rotating from the vibration...
Pull the coil wire - and make sure you're actually getting spark
Look into the carb and stab the throttle and see that you're getting gas
While we know you wrote the firing order down...
From #1 - the firing order rotates CLOCKWISE...
This IS A FOUR STROKE ENGINE - so the timing comes around TWICE. The "poof" test is best verified with a valve cover off - watch the valves as you crank the engine over (I use a ratchet on the crank bolt if you don't have a starter button to hook up - this is done easier with no plugs in) - watch the intake open and then as it closes - watch your timing mark and your rotor (cap off!). At ZERO both valves should be closed - the rotor should be at #1.
Then I crank in 10* (your initial) on the timing pointer - and set the distributor so that it's dead on #1 on the cap...
This will set your initial timing so that you're really close. That way when she fires - she'll run real nice and you can just touch up the timing when you get a little heat in the motor and you've made sure everything else is going good.
For clarification it has ran (stubbled fo 15 seconds), but required rapid pumping of the throttle. It's back-fired annd done a few pop! volcanic fireballs, nothing a cotton towel doesn't fix.....and yes 2 extinguishers were close by.
I was wondering if in was 180* out. But not knowing the indicators of 180* out I'm unsure.
Rotor is rotating CW not CCW.....according to firing order CW is correct, fan is turning CCW according to blades is correct.
With all the new parts........could it be a carb issue? The squirters are working, butterflies work through the full range with the throttle pedal, floats are on the high side, front is filling 60% of the sight glass, rear is filling75-80%. I'll back them to down to the 40% mark tomorrow.....but I thought it would light up even if they were on the high side.
Double checked the distributor internals.
I didn't do the ignition wiring or aftermarket harness installation.
If it's 180* out, it won't start it will just backfire, If it's popping, stubbling and spitting and all is good inside eng.. It sounds like timing is to far retarded
Yes the floats are a lil high but as long as gas isnt coming out of the vents it should run for now but fix that issue. And yes the rotor turns CW
Wish I could explain things in writing like Greg
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If it ain't buckin, chirpin & makin all kinds of bad noises, then I ain't happy
Accelerating is optional...........stopping is mandatory. Your car WILL stop one way or another.
I wish I was as flexible as Rev too, but it ain't gonna happen.
Something just doesn't sound right when it's trying to light....out of phase like. I'll drop the floats and see if that changes anything - that would be too easy.
aww man this is cracking me up....not your problem but the comments. LOL
Verify spark like Greg says. I think he might be spending too much time with the Mustang though.
Give that baby some more advance and pop er off. Pull the vac can towards you.
Premature pull out is common first timers. Just don't go too far in or you might lose a finger nail.
Yes --- CLOCKWISE.... sorry --- I was trying to THINK and type at the same time... the brain had one picture and the fingers typed what I was thinking not to do!
Should have read my own post before hitting submit.
Brian Hobaugh SCCA National Tour June 2014
First Hemi 'Cuda Convertible Ever Built
Short clips: Goodguys Pleasanton autocross and pit videos
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