The tach is kinda handy for break-in. It can be wired old school vs. using the designated lead. That internal rev limiter is a concern, so is a defective distributor the way my luck has been.
Understood on the exhaust........what do the pro-stock guys do?
I might cut it to length and tack it up........in my spare time.
"what do the pro-stock guys do" We drag racers get used to listening to engs uncorked
I don't think that the Rev limiter will make it blubber and back fire. It'll just miss (ever hit the rev limiter on your bike? I'll sound like that) You're doing the rt thing checking any and all possibilities OH and that video is on it's way
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If it ain't buckin, chirpin & makin all kinds of bad noises, then I ain't happy
Accelerating is optional...........stopping is mandatory. Your car WILL stop one way or another.
Just checked the rev limiter's current setting........turn key on and "the tach will display the value for 2 seconds." My tach displays zero, and the needles initial mocement is towards a negative number.
I'm guesing that budget AutoGuage tach is not compatible with the new distributor.
Time to confirm tach wiring..........I can just run the lead to the negative post on the coil instead of the gray lead off the distributor.
Disconnected the distributor tach lead and connected to coil negative, checked chassis ground, float level in middle of sight glass, tried to light it and advanced and retarded the distributor while cranking and cylinders are firing but possibly not all of them..........?
i'd fix that....fuel fowled plugs won't fire well if you were spot on. Your getting there.
Pull all the plugs and crank it for a few secs to blow the fuel out. If it were me i'd replace all wet ones. You should have at least 2-4 dry ones if it tried to run.
i'd fix that....fuel fowled plugs won't fire well if you were spot on. Your getting there.
Pull all the plugs and crank it for a few secs to blow the fuel out. If it were me i'd replace all wet ones. You should have at least 2-4 dry ones if it tried to run.
It's worth a try.
Current plugs are Autolite 3924 @ .040. Is wet and .040 gap vs. .035 enough to cause issue?
I by no means am a pro here as compared to others, but I'd like to give my .02 cents, might help or it might not
I recently did a valve adjustment on my 305, which ran fine after replacing all the top end gaskets from the block up, but it had some rocker arm ticking. so I attempted my first valve adjustment. After the adjustment she wouldn't fire at all, except when I sprayed some starting fluid in the carb, even then I would have to keep the throttle in a bit to keep it running, and while it was running the motor was shaking pretty violently. I was thinking it was timing and all that, but in the end I had tightened the valves down too much and they were hanging open a bit. Checking the valve adjustment isn't a bad idea!!
Brian Hobaugh SCCA National Tour June 2014
First Hemi 'Cuda Convertible Ever Built
Short clips: Goodguys Pleasanton autocross and pit videos
It can be wired old school vs. using the designated lead. That internal rev limiter is a concern, so is a defective distributor the way my luck has been. 
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