1970 GTO V3

[Ricochet]

So cool to see this car coming together for V3, Andrew. As was mentioned so much history. Keep up the great work. Can't wait to see it done and being put the paces...

[WSSix]

Do a single exhaust that dumps behind the bumper so it's mainly hidden?

I've thought about doing this with the C10 just to keep costs down. All I want is a good sound. I don't care about seeing the exhaust tips.

[andrewb70]

Originally Posted by WSSix

Do a single exhaust that dumps behind the bumper so it's mainly hidden?

I've thought about doing this with the C10 just to keep costs down. All I want is a good sound. I don't care about seeing the exhaust tips.

Normally I would do just that, like I did with the Cougar. However, one of the distinct styling features of 1970 GTOs is that the exhaust tips pass through cut-outs in the car valance. So I either get a LeMans rear valance and have it painted, or I split the exhaust and do dual tips.



I already have a 4" to dual 3" splitter from Burns Stainless. It will just be a matter of splitting out the pipes, adding 2 mufflers and tail pipes.

Andrew

[camcojb]

Originally Posted by andrewb70

Normally I would do just that, like I did with the Cougar. However, one of the distinct styling features of 1970 GTOs is that the exhaust tips pass through cut-outs in the car valance. So I either get a LeMans rear valance and have it painted, or I split the exhaust and do dual tips.



I already have a 4" to dual 3" splitter from Burns Stainless. It will just be a matter of splitting out the pipes, adding 2 mufflers and tail pipes.

Andrew

Split it...

[andrewb70]

Originally Posted by camcojb

Split it...

That's the plan. I am taking inspiration from your exhaust build. I got the same splitter from Burns as you have.

Today's update is a bit random because we kind of jumped around doing various tasks. Since the brake lines were done, I figured it was about time to see if the iBooster actually works ad if we can bled the brakes.

I have heard a lot of good things about the Motive Products brake bleeders, so I thought I would get one to try. I have to say that I will never bleed brakes any other way. The process was super simple and I barely spilled any brake fluid.



I got the version of the Motive brake blender that came with a MC cap that was compatible with the Tesla MC cap. It also works on many newer GM cars.



While I wasn't around, Vic changed the angle of the downpipe a little bit to move it a little further from the firewall. There is a little over an inch now.



Yesterday I also finished up the turbo oil drain pipe by welding on an extension that will feed the drain under the turbo hot parts and feed into the oil pan.



Vic also made these little tabs that position the coils a little higher and over. This was done to move the spark plug wires away from the downpipe.



Andrew

[andrewb70]

Before talking about today's update, I realized that I really didn't mention how the iBooster feels. After bleeding the brakes, we powered up the iBooster and it just started working. The pedal effort is pretty light, but very smooth. Pedal travel is also fairly short before the pedal gets really hard to press. As of now I think the driving experience is going to be greatly improved over the manual brakes that I had before.

Today's update is also just a random collection of small projects. Last week I ordered all new ARP hardware for the intake lid and the intercooler. The included hardware was adequate, but silver cad plated bolts tend to look like garbage after a very short time. The ARP stainless hardware will look great for a long time.



I also finished installing the new, collapsable steering shaft and new u-joints from Borgeson.



I also finished up the oil drain for the turbo. Here is how it wraps around the up-pipe.



Then it goes under all of the turbo hot pipes, pointing at the fitting in the oil pan.



The only thing left is to put a bead on the 5/8" tube and add a short length of rubber hose between the tube and the oil pan fitting.



Lastly, I have been doing a lot of looking and thinking about where to mount the boost control solenoids. There is quite a bit of plumbing that needs to go between the wastegate, turbo compressor outlet, and the boost solenoids. I want to keep that plumbing as short and simple as possible, so I am thinking about making a bracket and mounting them under the nose of the intake lid.

This location will make the plumbing relatively short and keep the solenoids relatively hidden.



Andrew

[andrewb70]

Today I got some PTFE hose and -4AN fittings and made the flex line for the turbo oil feed.



I gave it a nice, soft S-shape to keep it tucked away.



Vic made a little bracket to hold the boost solenoids just under the intake lid snout. The mounting points for the bracket have slots, so the bolts just need to be loosened up to put it on or remove it.



One of the big reasons for choosing this location and orientation is so that the two nipples face the general direction of the wastegate and turbo. One of the lines needs to go to the top of the wastage dome and the other needs to go to the turbo compressor discharge.



Here is the view from the other side. I am going to have my friend Blake design and print a cover for the solenoids.



Since the wastegate is not super accessible and is surrounded by hot parts, I decided to plumb everything going to it using NiCopp 3/16" tubing. That way I don't have to worry about melting through the typical nylon hose and push-lock fittings.



This is the line from the compressor discharge to the bottom of the dome.



This TurboSmart wastegate has provisions for water cooling, so once the heater hose fittings are finalized, I will tap them and feet coolant to the dome of the wastegate.

Andrew

[Jimbo1367]

Very well thought out.

[andrewb70]

I try to do a little something everyday to keep making progress. We added a bung for the oxygen sensor. I wanted it easily accessible, but also not super visible.




We also added a bung in the charge pipe and I added a small tube to feed boost pressure to the feed side of the boost solenoids.



It was also time to think about where the fill tank for the A2W intercooler might go. I am thinking about this location on the firewall. I added a 45 degree fitting to the intercooler just to see how the hoses might be routed.



The tank looks like it is close to the downpipe, but there is actually quite a bit of space. The tank also needs to have a fill bung aded to the top of the right side and an outlet on the left side.



This is just an overall shot of the engine compartment as it sits now.



Baby steps...

Andrew

[camcojb]

Things get busy in a hurry with a turbo(s). You've done a great job keeping it clean and compact.