1970 Camaro RS Operation Budget LSx - Page 6 - Lateral-g Forums

**GregWeld** · #51 02-17-2010, 06:26 PM

Not trying to be a "downer" here at all -- and I know you're having a ton of fun with this project...

BUT (big butt) -- that motor "appears" to have been very hot at some point... that oil and dried "burnt" looking oil on the front around the crank snout - that would worry me... a lot.

Does the motor turn over "freely" etc? Have you looked and or checked any of the crank or rod journals?

It's non of my business of course - and I'm certainly no "motor guy" -- but it sure is DARK...

Vegas69 · #52 02-17-2010, 06:34 PM

Doesn't look to be maintained real well, I'd pull a main cap as Greg said.

E.rodz · #53 02-17-2010, 07:16 PM

looks like a fun build so far yet another big block guy comes out of the dark closet.lol.cracks me up to listen to big block guys talk about how they are the only motors that make power. and most drag racers will get rid of all the comforts to drop 30 pounds and switching to a ls motor and taking all that weight off the front end and that not all the advantages.you are going to thank yourself the extra effort will be worth it in the end..oh I third the pull off the main cap idea. nows the time while its on the stand hope everything falls together for you.

1970camaroRS · #54 02-17-2010, 07:48 PM

Greg, you're not being a debbie downer at all. The motor had good oil pressure before the previous owner pulled it, it turns over by hand very easily and smoothly. I was planning on pulling one cap tonight just to have a looksee, but I'm sure the bearings will look like well worn, very high mileage bearings. Just looks like the previous guy didn't change is oil very often is all. The oil that came out of it looked good and so did the filter when I cut it open. There's no evidence of damage anywhere in the motor so far, just terrible looking oil deposits.

Also sticking to the plan that this is a budget build to just get it in the car and running. If it breaks, so be it. I don't have the money to build a forged 408 right now, but I will in a year or two.

**GregWeld** · #55 02-17-2010, 08:13 PM

Thanks! Didn't want to sound like a DD...

BTW -- I think -- and I don't think real well... that you need a TOOL to pull the main caps off of an LS motor... Now maybe there's a "way" to wrestle 'em off there that you - or someone else - knows about.

But I would think that the rod caps might give you a good "heads up" and maybe even that isn't really needed if you think the bottom end is all good.

When I open my oil filters - it looks like someone filled 'em with brillo pad... Is that good?

1970camaroRS · #56 02-17-2010, 10:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GregWeld

When I open my oil filters - it looks like someone filled 'em with brillo pad... Is that good?

Only if you dont like to have bearings in your motors.

Vegas69 · #57 02-17-2010, 10:12 PM

Not to hijack your thread due to Weld but Greg, why do an oil analysis if you have that much debris?

1970camaroRS · #58 02-17-2010, 11:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Vegas69

Not to hijack your thread due to Weld but Greg, why do an oil analysis if you have that much debris?

I'm 99.9% sure he was joking with his last comment....

Vegas69 · #59 02-17-2010, 11:26 PM

He wasn't actually...we just don't want to hijack your thread.

1970camaroRS · #60 02-19-2010, 12:34 AM

First off I want to say sorry for the lack of detailed pictures in this update. I had a bad day and went to the garage to work it out. I didn't stop to take many pictures. It did however make me mock everything up to give me a little push to keep going.

Got the windage tray and pick-up tube installed. Make sure you lube the o-ring with the same oil you will be running in the engine. It also helps to install the tube, it should slide right in.

Since these are new untested parts, I decided to check the clearance between the oil pan and pick-up. Didn't get any pictures of that, but the result was good.

Curious thing happened when I went to install the oil-pan. One of the holes in the pan didn't have a corresponding hole in the block! I took the pan off to double check to see if it was a misplaced hole, but no....there wasn't a hole in the block anywhere near that spot!

Interesting note: I used a straight edge to align the oil pan to the back of the block, then something struck me. Is that step truely necessary for engines being bolted to TH400/350/700r4's? The bellhousing bolt holes that are on the pan dont have corresponding structure on my 700r4 to attach to. Or am I just being crazy?

Moving on, I got the front cover installed then moved on to the ARP studs. No pictures of that, but I will take some when I take the mock-up apart to finish the heads.

So, I put the dowls in the block, slid the heads onto the studs, got the valve covers and coil packs sitting on top of them. Then I put the Vic Jr. on, put the carb that needs to be rebuilt on top of that and test fit the K&N. I thought it would also be neat to see the headers hanging there, so I added those too. These pictures will serve as inspiration to keep me going these next few months.

I plan on making a custom valley cover to delete the knock sensor holes and will paint it the same color as the block. Debating on if I should spray in gloss black or chevy orange. Also thinking about painting the valve covers to match as well. Need to make that decision soon, but first I have to get a valve spring compressor to finish the heads and put the long block together. Those pictures look good, but theres a ton left to do!