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Old 07-08-2010, 06:15 AM
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toddshotrods toddshotrods is offline
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Default The Inhaler - All-Electric 23 Model T Autocross/Drag Truck

I hope my madness is welcome here. I know you guys love the growl and snarl of a badass V8 (as do I), so I am hoping this won't make you too nauseous. If numbers help any, in full race trim my electric motor will be capable of 500hp/1000ft-lb, with all 1000ft-lb available at 0rpm! Final weight goal is 1200lbs. To keep it from sounding like an electric drill on steroids, I am working on some advanced acoustic tricks, with the goal of something more like an F1 car at full boil - that's the goal anyway. More on all that later though.

The real point of this whole project was just to have a platform to display my CAD work. The compact electric powertrain gives me more freedom in design, without sacrificing performance, and opens doors for me outside the world of hot rodding. I'm really challenging myself with the design. I want it to unmistakably be a modern race car, but still look antique. For autocrossing, I chose IFS and I am going to try to make that whole setup look right - kind of like putting a Model T body on an old Ferrari grand prix chassis. Blah, blah...

What it's supposed to be (special thanks to Derek69SS for the original T pic):

Note : don't read too seriously into the "Accused of" section - just having fun with words to play on the electric theme - I'm not a real "greenie".



I actually started this project in 2005, but got side-tracked with surviving. It originally had an SBC in it. I sold my shop in 2008 and moved to Columbus to concentrate on CAD. I left the Inhaler in storage at a so-called friend's shop for a few months. When I went back to get it, it was sitting outside in front of his shop! Anyway, this is last June, after I got it here and started working on it again. I was preparing to graft Fiero front suspension on the chassis (more on why I chose such an oddball setup later). The back is GM G-body (triangulated 4-link) snipped whole from an 83 Cutlass.








Dig the Cragar SS wheels?! It's short for carving through cones, but the 90" wheelbase meets the NHRA minimum.

Keep going or get lost?
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Old 07-08-2010, 11:15 AM
GHOSTDANCER GHOSTDANCER is offline
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Keep'um coming
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Old 07-08-2010, 01:39 PM
ArisESQ ArisESQ is offline
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i really dig this!!

so what kind of acoustic tricks did you have in mind?? and what are the details on the motor?
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Old 07-08-2010, 11:41 PM
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I like this concept and am looking forward to seeing it progress.
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Old 07-09-2010, 05:25 AM
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Thanks guys!



Quote:
Originally Posted by ill steez View Post
...and what are the details on the motor?
It's an 11"(dia), DC, General Electric motor from a Hyster forklift. Stock so far, but eventually it will get a full race build. A lot of times the biggest part of that is just re-wrapping the coils with higher temp insulation, and going over the rest of the motor with a fine-toothed comb. The wrapped coils get coated with epoxy and baked, brushes are upgraded, etc. It's pretty amazing that a slightly reworked forklift motor is capable of the performance it is.

I'm going much further. I'm eventually having the coils custom wound, and a couple other tricks inside. Rewinding the coils is like grinding a custom cam in a gas engine. You can put the powerband where you need it. The thing is, I need to do some testing in near stock configuration to develop a powertrain baseline and gauge vehicle dynamics. With enough information, I can tell the guy what I want the motor to do and he'll design the internals - another will do the custom winding and rebuild the motor.



Quote:
Originally Posted by ill steez View Post
...so what kind of acoustic tricks did you have in mind??...
In a nutshell, to really push a DC electric motor you have to provide external forced air cooling. I'm doing the CAD model now for a blower that will push around 500cfm at 190+ mph (more air speed and volume than pressure). I am modeling the case to lightly resemble an old Frenzel supercharger. It will be mounted directly to the motor case, be driven by the motor, and blow directly into the cooling ports. The combination of the huge blower running with the accelerator pedal, sucking and pushing large volumes of air, and its thin aluminum case resonating the internal sounds of the motor, are what I am working with. I have to determine the frequencies of as many of those sounds as possible, and tune the enclosure to amplify some, cancel some...

The intake side of the forced-air system will have three spun metal velocity stacks, for a retro touch, and these will also serve as megaphones to amplify the good stuff. Hope all that makes sense.
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Last edited by toddshotrods; 07-09-2010 at 09:59 AM. Reason: typos and clarity
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Old 07-09-2010, 05:40 AM
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To couple the driveshaft to the motor (direct drive, no transmission) I needed an adapter to mate two pieces.

One is a PTO disc from a large tractor. It had a riveted hub with the right spline pattern for my motor, and it's slip fit like a driveshaft slip yoke would be:


And a Spicer 1350-series flange yoke.

Neither one of these parts is up to the task of handling the torque of the race motor, but they will get the truck moving for initial testing and a little fun. Another trick inside the motor, when the full race build happens will be a custom shaft with TH400 splines on the output side, so I can eliminate this adapter.







Finished adapter assembly:


Sorry for all the crappy pics. My camera was broken and I took a lot of these with my cell. Eventually, I bought a little Nikon, so the quality will get better.
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Old 07-09-2010, 01:36 PM
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Now for a little of what I do...

Here's a rendering of the CAD model for the rear motor mount.


3x12.25x14.5" 6061 billet clamped down and ready to make chips.








It bolts to a 3" tubular crossmember on the frame with two .750" 12pt, grade 8, bolts on the ends; and four .750" studs in the middle. There will be a machined and fabricated inner structure in that crossmember, with threaded bushings for the bolts, and sleeves for the studs, that positively locates the motor and feeds the torque into the chassis properly.

There is also a minimum of .750" section width in the mount, where the motor mounts to it. So, in essence, it is a glorified .750" motor plate with a very stout base and huge fasteners.
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Last edited by toddshotrods; 07-09-2010 at 01:38 PM. Reason: typo
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