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  #51  
Old 08-31-2013, 07:41 AM
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Originally Posted by GregWeld View Post
THEN YA GOT TO KEEP IT CHARGED if you let it sit for long periods.... or when you go to winch something on it's dead. It should be charging off the tow vehicle when towing.... but some batteries don't hold a good charge when sitting around in cold temps etc for months at a time.
That's why I put one of these on mine http://www.batterystuff.com/solar-chargers/BSP60WK.html
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  #52  
Old 08-31-2013, 09:41 AM
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Originally Posted by John510 View Post
Are these decent? They are around 6K new for a 20 ft

http://www.interstatecargo.com/carhauler.php#overview
I have the Interstate Supercoach they have listed for 12K and talked them down to $7500 out the door. Great trailer so far......all exterior lights are LED, two interior lights, and exterior loading lights just above the rear door. I disagree with anybody that says 20' isn't long enough. I have plenty of room up front for loading tools, air tank, three 5 gallon fuel cans, chairs, table, cooler, canopy, etc, up front and if I wanted to build some cabinets up front I could do that also but don't find it necessary as I'd rather not be towing that much more weight. Just to get an idea of how much room is left up front the front of my car stops a bit past the door in the first pic.




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  #53  
Old 08-31-2013, 09:43 AM
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Having just went through this I'll chime in on my experience and a couple of observations.

First off - and most frustrating of all - if you are on the West Coast (or Canada) you are going to miss out on some great deals. If you look at Racing Junk or Ebay (or listen to about 80% of the people on the forums) you'll see a ton of awesome looking trailer for sale at dirt cheap priced. None of which will be anywhere near you. Then when you look locally you'll gradually become more and more frustrated that you're paying at least 2K more than what anyone in Wisconsin would even consider to be a good price. That's just reality.

Second - size - I think that the sweet spot (depending on your truck and your trailer towing tolerance) is 24 feet (for an enclosed). 20 feet will work but you lose flexibility for carrying extras and the like. 28 feet is oh-so-tempting but it is a lot bigger than it seems (that said I know of a great deal on a 28 in CA that I was sorely tempted to act on despite being convinced my truck would have been too small). Focus on 20 - 24 feet.

Third - capacity - 3500 pound axles are probably too small 8 times out of 10. Figure that your trailer (at 24 feet) will weight 3500 pounds +/- meaning that you have 3500 pounds -/+ of rated capacity left. You'll see some axles rated at 4950 pounds (9900 pounds total) but they are really 5000 or 5200 pound axles derated to keep the trailer capacity below 10,000 which has some extra DOT implications for the manufacturer. At 10,000 pounds you have 6000 + of capacity which should be more than enough.

Fourth - layout and accessories - there are ton's of cargo trailers with car hauler options and (by and large) they are all the same. Some have better plywood on the inside and some move the breakaway battery around but beyond that I didn't see much (amongst like manufacturers) - at least until you get to actual "race car trailers" like a Haulmark Edge or the like. So when looking try to find something where someone has already invested in some goodies but, at the same time, be mindful of the effects of those goodies. The 24 with the lift looks cool but I have to wonder how much weight that adds. E-track, O-track, cabinets, spare tires, insulation, lighting, walls, ceiling, floor, shore power, generator, winch, etc. - get as much as you can for your money.

If I had not bought a trailer I would be really looking hard at the Pace - good brand, perfect size, looks like great condition and a fair price.

I wound up with this one - a 24 foot Blaze with 4900 pound axles.



I will be adding a load leveling hitch and a RideTech TowPro setup to balance things a bit better.



It's been fully insulated and pre-wired for AC and has O-track on the floor and E-track on both walls. I'll probably add some carpet to midway up the walls in the future.



I has 120-volt AC shore power for the lighting and has a battery charger and inverter pre-wired. I'll add an OPTIMA Blue Top and a winch this weekend. Greg was spot on on the winch ratings - unless you foresee a day when you're trying to winch a car in that no longer rolls freely you're fine with a "smaller" rated winch. Remotes, however, can be an important consideration.



And it has some decent pre-built cabinets and workspace. I'll add some stuff from Pit Pal to equip it better but for the same price as a new bar cargo trailer of the same size it's better suited to what I want to do. I lost the warranty but it came with 2 spares - and it has the EZ lube axles which makes maintenance a bit easier.

Good luck with your hunting.
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Last edited by James OLC; 08-31-2013 at 09:47 AM.
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  #54  
Old 08-31-2013, 10:29 AM
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You guys have some awesome trailers.
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  #55  
Old 08-31-2013, 10:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ketzer View Post
Used ones seem to be the same price as brand new ones?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/8284-NEW-Enc...item35cab7cf16


Jeff-
Possibly. That's a different brand though and I do not know enough about all the brands to really comment.

Just like cars and trucks and real estate, there are usually premiums (some large, some small) paid for "stuff" in California.

Now where's that gooseneck trailer thread of GW's.... there's gotta be some good info in there somewhere.
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  #56  
Old 08-31-2013, 05:00 PM
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James, that is a kick ass trailer. And we all know you did your research and hunting. Fellow Dirtfisher there I see.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Track Junky View Post
I have the Interstate Supercoach they have listed for 12K and talked them down to $7500 out the door. Great trailer so far......all exterior lights are LED, two interior lights, and exterior loading lights just above the rear door. I disagree with anybody that says 20' isn't long enough. I have plenty of room up front for loading tools, air tank, three 5 gallon fuel cans, chairs, table, cooler, canopy, etc, up front and if I wanted to build some cabinets up front I could do that also but don't find it necessary as I'd rather not be towing that much more weight. Just to get an idea of how much room is left up front the front of my car stops a bit past the door in the first pic.




G, your photos are all gone now. You must have moved something in photobucket. I know, photobucket does pretty much suck.
Can you make those work again? I'd like to see them again.

I like that you have been able to make the 20 footer work. My parking pad on the side of my house is pretty tight and I think a 24 would be a stretch whereas a 20 could make it. It's damn tight and if the 20 might be the winning formula.

Brett is bringing his 24 footer (Todd's old trailer) up this coming week -- maybe I will have Brett do a test run backing it in.
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  #57  
Old 08-31-2013, 05:09 PM
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Her ya go Dave. I was doing some organizing. Didn't realize it was going to remove pics.






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  #58  
Old 08-31-2013, 06:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by James OLC View Post
Having just went through this I'll chime in on my experience and a couple of observations.

First off - and most frustrating of all - if you are on the West Coast (or Canada) you are going to miss out on some great deals. If you look at Racing Junk or Ebay (or listen to about 80% of the people on the forums) you'll see a ton of awesome looking trailer for sale at dirt cheap priced. None of which will be anywhere near you. Then when you look locally you'll gradually become more and more frustrated that you're paying at least 2K more than what anyone in Wisconsin would even consider to be a good price. That's just reality.

Second - size - I think that the sweet spot (depending on your truck and your trailer towing tolerance) is 24 feet (for an enclosed). 20 feet will work but you lose flexibility for carrying extras and the like. 28 feet is oh-so-tempting but it is a lot bigger than it seems (that said I know of a great deal on a 28 in CA that I was sorely tempted to act on despite being convinced my truck would have been too small). Focus on 20 - 24 feet.

Third - capacity - 3500 pound axles are probably too small 8 times out of 10. Figure that your trailer (at 24 feet) will weight 3500 pounds +/- meaning that you have 3500 pounds -/+ of rated capacity left. You'll see some axles rated at 4950 pounds (9900 pounds total) but they are really 5000 or 5200 pound axles derated to keep the trailer capacity below 10,000 which has some extra DOT implications for the manufacturer. At 10,000 pounds you have 6000 + of capacity which should be more than enough.

Fourth - layout and accessories - there are ton's of cargo trailers with car hauler options and (by and large) they are all the same. Some have better plywood on the inside and some move the breakaway battery around but beyond that I didn't see much (amongst like manufacturers) - at least until you get to actual "race car trailers" like a Haulmark Edge or the like. So when looking try to find something where someone has already invested in some goodies but, at the same time, be mindful of the effects of those goodies. The 24 with the lift looks cool but I have to wonder how much weight that adds. E-track, O-track, cabinets, spare tires, insulation, lighting, walls, ceiling, floor, shore power, generator, winch, etc. - get as much as you can for your money.

If I had not bought a trailer I would be really looking hard at the Pace - good brand, perfect size, looks like great condition and a fair price.

I wound up with this one - a 24 foot Blaze with 4900 pound axles.


Good luck with your hunting.
100% Correct. Also some trailer co's have 5500# axles and make a 26' box.. My 1998 Wells Cargo "autowagon" is a great trailer http://wellscargo.com/
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  #59  
Old 08-31-2013, 06:47 PM
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I am assuming most of you have the 8.5 foot (102") versions instead of the 8 foot (96") width?
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  #60  
Old 08-31-2013, 06:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Revved View Post
I've been hauling my cars around with an enclosed 24' V Nose. Be sure to get one with a dove tail (floor slopes down inside the trailer to the door) for better ground clearance. If you've got the extra cash that driver side escape door is nice... something I'll be looking for on the next trailer I buy. You could probably get by with a 20' but I'm constantly running engines, tires, and misc parts around with me and the extra couple feet are nice to have. I put in some cabinets up front to hold straps, tools, etc..

This one I have is a Cargo Mate. I would not buy another one. It wasn't that much cheaper than a name trailer and I've had to reweld and reinforce nearly half the frame where it supports the box for metal fatigue. I've probably put about 40k miles on it over the last 6 years and its all be on paved roads so no excuse for that.

Mustangs fit easy... the 70 Chevelle I just finished up was snug side to side. I'm glad it was a convertible so I didn't have to open the door to get out.

Good luck!
I bought a trailer with drivers side escape door, wouild not ddo it again. The wheel wells for the trailer hit the drivers door, I can just squeeze out the door when it hits the wheel well. Plus just another opening to let dust in and weatherstripping to go bad.
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