66 Chevelle LSA/4L90E Conversion - Page 6 - Lateral-g Forums

**kwhizz** · #1 10-19-2013, 01:42 PM

Got the Brake lines finished up today and bled the brakes also......Didn't do too bad.....had about 13 brake line connections and only had 12 leaks..........Another thing off the list....

Ken

1badsc · #2 10-19-2013, 01:59 PM

nice work 12 out 13 not too bad lol got my eye on you lol

**kwhizz** · #3 10-23-2013, 10:19 PM

Well.........It seems that me and the rear brake God have some issues......Complete Wilwood system including Master Cylinder.......I bench bleed the master and had to "Work" it to get the rear system bubble free.........the front cleared up with a couple of pumps.........So.....everything installed (all new brake lines)and gravity bled till I got some help to finish the job........Bled the fronts and when opening the bleeder valve it was like a water fountain and the pedal went to the floor as it should.......Great!!......go to do the rears and I would get a couple of drops and the pedal stayed right where it was......Hummm!!!.........either side didn't make a difference.........Hummmm!!!............So....I'm thinking maybe the adjustable proportioning valve is the issue......so I crank it in to give it maximum flow........go to bleed them again......same thing ......a couple drops of fluid without any pedal drop.......So......I call Wilwood and talk to one of the tech guys.........After conversation with them I learned that even with the proportioning valve at full flow.....it only allows 57% of volume thru......so......Today I decided to remove the prop valve..........while I was making a new brake line I decided to do the bench bleed again.....after removing the brake line I put my thumb over the port and worked the pedal thru the steering column hole.....I got some pressure but not enough to blow my thumb off the port......Hummm!!!.......So.....I finish up and install the new line and again....in bleeding the rear I just get a couple of drops with no pedal drop...............Am I missing something???.......It would seem to me that the M/C even though new could be bad....

On another note.....I ordered the wheels today...........and tomorrow I should receive the balance of my Dakota Digital order so I can continue on with the wiring.........I also got all the belts installed and tensioned correctly.........And.....In checking out the pan clearance with the steering arms......It seems I not going to have any clearance issues......(But...the suspension is still unloaded).......

jeff71 · #4 10-23-2013, 10:25 PM

What did you decide on for wheels?

**kwhizz** · #5 10-23-2013, 10:42 PM

Grey Powder Coated center and Brushed rim

pist0lpete · #6 10-25-2013, 11:04 AM

I would be interested to know what your passenger side head to firewall clearance is. Those AC brackets look very similar to the Alan Grove components that mount a Sanden 508. I am beginning to think I could possibly make those work without notching the frame.

**kwhizz** · #7 10-25-2013, 02:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pist0lpete

I would be interested to know what your passenger side head to firewall clearance is. Those AC brackets look very similar to the Alan Grove components that mount a Sanden 508. I am beginning to think I could possibly make those work without notching the frame.

1 1/4"....................

Ken

**GregWeld** · #8 10-25-2013, 11:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kwhizz

Grey Powder Coated center and Brushed rim

Come on Ken -- what's with this little postage stamp pic!! I'm old -- I can't even tell what that is a picture of?!?!?!?!

HAHAHAHAHHAHAHA

It's coming along nicely!

**kwhizz** · #9 10-25-2013, 02:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GregWeld

Come on Ken -- what's with this little postage stamp pic!! I'm old -- I can't even tell what that is a picture of?!?!?!?!

HAHAHAHAHHAHAHA

It's coming along nicely!

Greg......It's beyond my Technical ability to find a bigger picture..........LOL

**kwhizz** · #10 10-26-2013, 09:44 AM

Another one of those little things that get stuck in the back of your head that you know will become a problem downstream because it's going too smooth just popped up........Now that I'm going to pull the engine for the last time (Hopefully) and tie up some loose ends......I decided to go back and check the tie rod to oil pan clearance that everyone else has "Issues" with....I didn't have any ......I had a slight contact in one direction but plenty of clearance when turning the other direction.....so....I noticed the center drag link wasn't centered with the engine and I thought I could get away with adjusting the tie rod ends to get everything centered and have clearance...........so.......I check everything again today and notice that the rotors didn't look like they were turning far enough.......so I start thinking about the turning radius not being sharp enough which would then shorten the drag link travel from side to side..........So.....I check to see where the steering arm stops contact the lower control arm..........Hummm!!.......I measure the Ridetech contact point and it's approx. 2 1/4" from the stop surface to the center of the ball joint..........I get out my stock lower arm and measure it at 1 1/2" ....Hummmmm!!!!.......I'll call Ridetech on Monday.....Better to deal with it now than after the engine is plugged in and all the accessories are on...........Maybe I'm making a mountain out of a molehill again...........