I don't really have plans to do anything to extreme with the car that would require a cage but I did want to put something in that might give a little protection and give me a place to mount some 4 point harnesses. Decided to make a removeable 4 point roll bar. Used steel reinforcement plates on the floors and 1/4 inch steel plates where the rear bars bolt into the package tray area. The interior cage is a bolt in removeable piece. All of the bars in the trunk area are welded in. The four exposed socket head bolts in the package tray area will have a billet cap that covers them. The round 1/4 plates in the package tray are welded directly to the down bars in the trunk not just to the sheet metal package tray.
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Greg
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Full disclosure, I would call myself an average welder at best. I can mig weld but I have never tig welded. Truth be known, I am probably a better grinder than welder. All the exposed welds that look good, and all the structural welds on this car were not done by me. They were done be people who do it for a living. Don't want to take credit for things I didn't do.
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Greg
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Perfect body gaps....another disclosure. I had nothing to do with getting any of the gaps to look like this. I tried to gap the driver door my self and after about 3 hours of messing with the door hinges and the fender and trying to get everything in sync I wanted to blow my head off. Kudos to all you guys who know how the get the perfect body gaps. I swear I took pics of the passenger side also but I can't find them. It looks the same as the driver side though.
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Greg
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Pretty much everything inside the car was taken down to bare metal so the entire interior got epoxied. Then it was covered with a layer of dynamat extreme. The inside roof panel was covered with a layer of second skin.
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Greg
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I didn't realize the Speedtech cross brace / driveshaft loop extended up beyond the floorboard until I saw your pictures, thanks for posting.
The entire cross brace actually sits on top of the floor pan. The only place where it penetrates through the floor is about a 4 inch section on each side of the trans tunnel. This portion that extends through the floor is where you bolt on the brace for the torque arm. The ends of the cross brace get welded directly to the rockers above the floor pan and the subframe connectors come up through the floor and welded to the cross brace. The seat pans will have to be notched slightly on the left and right to go over the cross brace as well as down the middle to clear a portion of the subframe connector.
I know I had some pictures of the entire install process but I cant find them. Here is a picture of how they come through the floor pan.
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Greg
Last edited by garickman; 08-10-2021 at 05:57 AM.
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I will be using the Procar Elite seat. The biggest advantage of these seats is the low cost. For me they are a very comfortable seat with good support. They also had the most classic look of the other seats I looked at. Remember the whole "Pro-Classic" vibe. The seats will be recoverd in leather with a charcoal houndstooth insert from Relicate Leather.
I didn't want to use the diriect fit brackets which would have raised the height of the seat so I just cut up the sliders and made new reinforced mounting tabs so the sliders were a direct bolt on in the front. I moved the bolt holes in the rear of the floor pan to bolt in the rear sliders. With the seat being lower it put the seat back adjust handle very close to the floor. It didn't seem like it would work by the time I put in sound deadner, underlayment and carpet so I notched the rocker portion to make some more room. I know that rocker panel is structural, so we did weld in some gussets and used 1/8 steel to replace the portion I cut out.
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Greg
Last edited by garickman; 08-10-2021 at 06:27 AM.
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Brian Hobaugh SCCA National Tour June 2014
First Hemi 'Cuda Convertible Ever Built
Short clips: Goodguys Pleasanton autocross and pit videos
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