I've been pretty bad at posting updates to this thread. . .but working full time, running a farm, and your own hard apple cider business doesn't leave a lot of time for posting up progress. . .and I'd rather be making progress than writing about it.
Here's the progress so far. . .hoping to be running for a local auto-x event on April 24th. . .
Front:
Currently I've replaced all of the front suspension bushings with polyurethane bushing from Energy Suspension and I've rebuilt/repainted/reinstalled the upper lower control arms. I've added a HUGE 1 1/8" tubular front anti-swaybar from Hellwig with Energy Suspension polyurethane end links and I'm running the 675 lb/in. coil springs recommended on the Pozzi racing website. These springs are significantly stiffer than stock (almost 3x as stiff, but they are recommended for the big block cars and auto-X cars) and they are quite a bit shorter. You don't even need a spring compressor to install them. . .unlike the stock springs which are so long my spring compressor almost wasn't up to the task. Installed Koni Classic adjustable shocks, new Moog inner/outer tie rod ends with DSE billet tie rod adjusters and I repainted my stock steering arms (couldn't find replacement units that would result in a faster steering ratio so I stuck with what I had).
The Kore 3 C6 325mm (12.8") rotors and 4-piston C6 calipers loaded with Hawk HP Plus (I think, I can't remember if they are HP Plus or HPS now that I'm writing this) pads are installed over the Kore 3 billet aluminum hub (with the billet aluminum grease cap) and mounted on a set of forged steel CPP tall spindles (can't afford the forged aluminum ATS spindles at the same time as all the other stuff) with new Moog upper/lower balljoints.
I ended up having to re-use the pitman arm that was already on the car as well because of header clearance. . .the current pitman arm is curved and snakes right around the headers perfectly, the long pitman arm that is supposed to result in a faster steering ratio would hit the headers so I couldn't use it.
Rear:
New Moser C-clip axles installed along with the Kore 3 305mm C6 rotors with 2-piston C6 calipers loaded with Hawk HP Plus (same deal as front. . .could be HPS, but I can't remember off the top of my head). I also got the Koni Classic adjustable shocks mounted in the rear.
General:
I replaced the distributor cap, rotor, points assembly (yes, still points right now), spark plugs, and plug wires. Replaced the starter with a Summit Racing high-torque gear reduction mini-starter (what a pain to check the clearance between the flexplate and the starter pinion!)
Brand new brake lines front to rear (stainless steel hardlines and Kore 3 braided stainless steel flex lines) are installed, brand new fuel lines front to rear installed.
I've got a Wilwood billet aluminum master cylinder (black) with a 7/8" bore and a Wilwood adjustable proportioning valve. . .I just need to bench bleed the master before I install it. I'm running a set of 5-spoke U.S. Wheels Series 701 Retro gunmetal wheels (17" x 8" with a 4.5" backspace front/17" x 9.5" with a 5.5" backspace rear). . .due to the C6 calipers I'm running a set of hub centric/wheel centric aluminum wheel spacers from Motorsport Tech (8mm front/10mm rear) to clear the calipers mounted with 1/2"-20 ARP wheel studs. For tires I've got a set of Toyo Proxes R888's mounted up; 245/40ZR17 front and 275/40ZR17 rear. . .this wheel tire package looks great, but the R888's aren't going to be class legal once I move out of the novice class so I'm gonna have to go with some 18" wheels so I can get 200 tread wear tires wider than 245.
In-Process:
Right now I'm in the process of dropping the tranning to replace the transmission mount (Energy Suspension poly), replace the flexplate (two broken teeth), and replace the motor mounts (Butler Performance poly 2-pc. poly mounts) so I can correctly route the front hard brake line between the motor mount plates (no way to get a pre-bent line between those two plates).
Still to be done:
I still need to pull the leaf springs and either replace the bushings, etc. (I already have Energy Suspension poly stuff) or replace them with either Hotchkiss or DSE lowering springs. . .I already have the poly bushings, but that is extra time to tear them apart, but the DSE or Hotchkiss springs are $$$ I don't have to spend between now and April 24th so the springs may stay put for my first auto-X and get replaced before the next event in May.
I also have the Holley 4160 carb pulled to clean it. . .sitting for 16 years I'm pretty sure it needs it!!!
Points of Interest:
I found out there is NO WAY to run a 17 x 9.5" wheel in the front with a stock subframe and stock steering arms. . .regardless of what wheel adapter you use without getting the tire into the fender (theoretically. . .I didn't drive it to find out. . .wasn't worth shredding a tire or crumpling a fender).
I've got the upper and lower molds made to make a two-piece carbon fiber decklid I just haven't had a chance to lay the parts up yet and I'm in the process of making molds for a two-piece carbon fiber hood (construction would be similar to the hood on Steilow's '67 Camaro Mayhem.
Once I get the tranny back in and the car up and running the only thing left to be functional will be to get an alignment done. . .once it's on the ground I will snap some pictures (even though I haven't done any cosmetic work and it will still have the steel hood with the GIGANTIC hole cut in it by the previous owner for the hideous Hilborn style scoop they were running)>
I figure this will be a good starting point and will let me run the car in the local auto-x events for the summer/fall and I'll start on some more significant modifications this winter (Ford 9" rear end with offset/decoupled 3-link rear suspension and on my dreamlist is the new Speedtech Performance ExtReme front subframe).
Hope a few people are still following this thread. . .
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Brian Hobaugh SCCA National Tour June 2014
First Hemi 'Cuda Convertible Ever Built
Short clips: Goodguys Pleasanton autocross and pit videos
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