67 Super Snake

[67SuperSnake]

I cut the upper back part to the rear seat in half and removed 2" because of the mini tub.

[67SuperSnake]

I mounted the gas pedal and Locar throttle cable. I had to make a "Z" bracket to get the gas pedal off the floor for clearance.

[67SuperSnake]

I finished all the auxiliary wiring that I could. Like wiring the trans tunnel, but from the inside so that there are no wires in the engine compartment.
The center console will cover up any deformities in the carpet, and I cut the hole way forward.

[67SuperSnake]

All this work allowed me to start the dash. Everything needs to be installed in this order.

I installed the dash pad from dashesdirect.com and it is very high quality . Fit is excellent, I only had to cut two little pieces off the upper ends (by the windshield) with a pair of scissors to make it fit correctly. This piece makes the inside look better than original!



And the Shelby cluster. Everything works! I checked every circuit that I could. And I mean every circuit!



Then the A/C controls. After that the kick panels so I could install the A/C vents, run all the air tubes (what a PITA ), and cleaned up the wiring a little:

[67SuperSnake]

I installed the Hydraulic Clutch Master today. But I had to make some modifications to the input shaft and the stock mustang adjustable brake push rod. The stock Mustang push rod adjuster is a bigger diameter/thread than the input shaft coming out of the master cylinder. And the input shaft is too long.

So, in the picture you can see how much I had to cut out of the Clutch master input shaft. How did I know how much to cut off? Fit, measure and mark. And I had to weld on a nut to the end of stock mustang push rod. And putting on that fluid reservoir was a PITA. The O'ring did not want to stay in the groove. I had to heat the plastic resevoir up with a heat gun, and work it many times to get it on without the O'ring slipping out of place. Just one more thing that takes time and patients.



Now everything fits. BTW, that nut you see is a lock nut.

[67SuperSnake]

I started fitting the rear seat. If you tubbed the rear end, you must cut the rear seat. The best way to preserve the hinge mounts and end of the first fold is to cut it in the middle. Yeah, that's right. Two cuts. And then weld it together. My fenders measured only 39" clearance and the panel was 41". It now fits pretty good.



And I had to remove the floor mounting brackets and re-weld them in by 1" each side.

Edit: I wish that I would have cut the panel off to one side or the other so the mounting holes in the new chrome pieces would line up. But I can alway just drill new mounting holes in the old metal for the one side of the chrome.

[67SuperSnake]

Sanded off many years of paint and and re-furbished the rear vent boxes. Put on new vent slides.



Edit: These slides are on backwards. I removed them and put them on correct.

[67SuperSnake]

I mounted the new transmission crossover. Bolted it in and had to drill out to 1/2" for the new grade 8 bolts to help handle the horsepower. A piece will be welded in place that mounts up to the trans when I get the engine/transmission in place.

[67SuperSnake]

I insulated the fuel lines and battery cable with a radiator hose cut in half and stuck it through the cross brace to eliminate any chafing.



I then installed the heat shields that I fabricated to help reduce the heat from the headers. This should help keep the fuel cooler!






I even bolted down the A/C drain line so it would not touch and melt to the header.

[67SuperSnake]

I purchased a 1 5/8" holes saw to cut the holes for the new interior lamps. Let me tell you, it was not an easy task installing them. I used a rat tail file to remove all the extra plastic, crimped the new light holder tabs down, and still had a difficult time installing them. I think that 1 3/4" would have been too big a hole. I also used a die grinder to cut out the hole for the roll bar.