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  #611  
Old 05-24-2008, 07:45 PM
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Originally Posted by 68protouring454 View Post
what changed between now and then? intake? anything else?
nothing changed when it started to smoke. I've had the car running with this exact combo of parts for a couple weeks. It was sitting outside the shop, idling, charging the a/c. All of a sudden I noticed the smoke from the pipe, started completely without warning while idling. The engine sounded exactly the same.

When the other guy mentioned the no boost deal and the oil seal on the turbos it made me think; all the running had just been idling, tweaking the start, etc. while waiting for the wheels so I could drive the car. So it had been doing a lot of idling, but then again the engine has a few hundred miles on it as a boosted deal from my GTO, and was pretty much broken in, never smoked (other than when the scavenge pump for the turbos failed........... ). So since it wasn't a virgin start I wasn't too worried about letting it idle while I tweaked things.

It only smokes on one side. I just filled the tank and since the rain stopped I went out and tortured it a bit. Definitely got into boost several times in high gear to load it good. The smoking is not visible cruising down the road, at least I couldn't see it, and after a few miles I returned home. I let it idle for about 30 seconds before putting it in the shop and it had started to smoke again, albeit about half as much as before, noticeably less. So maybe the driving and loading the engine/turbo's is helping, but I just have a gut feeling there's something wrong with the one turbo oil seal. That cannot be fixed before Power Tour.

Jody
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Dakota Digital for their Chevelle HDX Gauge Package
Painless Performance for their wiring harness

Ron Davis Radiators for their radiator and fan assembly.
Baer Brakes for their front and rear brakes

Texas Speed and Performance for their 427 LS Stroker
American Powertrain for their ProFit Magnum T56 kit
Currie Enterprises for their 9" Third Member
Forgeline for their GF3 Wheels
McLeod Racing for their RXT street twin clutch
Ididit for their steering column
Holley for their EFI and engine parts
Lokar and Clayton Machine for their pedals and door and window handles
Morris Classic Concepts for their 3 point belts and side mirrors
Thermotec for their heat sleeve and sound deadening products
Restomod Air for their Tru Mod A/C kit
Mightymouse Solutions for their catch can
Magnaflow for their 3" exhaust system
Aeromotive for their dual Phantom fuel system
Vintage Air for their new Mid Mount LS front drive
Hydratech Braking for their hydroboost system
Borgeson for their stainless steering shaft and u joints
Eddie Motorsports for their hood and trunk hinges and misc parts
TMI Products for their seats, door panels, and dash pad
Rock Valley Antique Auto Parts for their stainless fuel tank

Last edited by camcojb; 05-24-2008 at 07:47 PM.
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  #612  
Old 05-24-2008, 08:11 PM
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I had been thinking it was a seal before, but as I'm not the most knowledgeable in this area, I didn't want to say much. Could you have Precision ship out a new turbo to your beginning destination and get some guys to thrash install it before leaving? Just an idea. Oh, and since when does anyone need a working speedometer anyway? Especially on Power Tour.
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  #613  
Old 05-24-2008, 08:17 PM
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Originally Posted by zbugger View Post
I had been thinking it was a seal before, but as I'm not the most knowledgeable in this area, I didn't want to say much. Could you have Precision ship out a new turbo to your beginning destination and get some guys to thrash install it before leaving? Just an idea. Oh, and since when does anyone need a working speedometer anyway? Especially on Power Tour.
I wouldn't mind, if I KNEW that the turbo was the issue. I suspect it is, but don't want to commit the money and effort to ship the car 2000 miles and find out that doesn't fix it..................

The speedo may just need the calibration done. When I find an area with mile markers I'm going to try it.

Thanks Alan.

Jody
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SPECIAL THANKS TO:
Jacob Ehlers and Amsoil for the lubricants and degreasers for my 70 Chevelle project
Shannon at Modo Innovations for the cool billet DBW bracket
Roadster Shop for their Chevelle SPEC Chassis
Dakota Digital for their Chevelle HDX Gauge Package
Painless Performance for their wiring harness

Ron Davis Radiators for their radiator and fan assembly.
Baer Brakes for their front and rear brakes

Texas Speed and Performance for their 427 LS Stroker
American Powertrain for their ProFit Magnum T56 kit
Currie Enterprises for their 9" Third Member
Forgeline for their GF3 Wheels
McLeod Racing for their RXT street twin clutch
Ididit for their steering column
Holley for their EFI and engine parts
Lokar and Clayton Machine for their pedals and door and window handles
Morris Classic Concepts for their 3 point belts and side mirrors
Thermotec for their heat sleeve and sound deadening products
Restomod Air for their Tru Mod A/C kit
Mightymouse Solutions for their catch can
Magnaflow for their 3" exhaust system
Aeromotive for their dual Phantom fuel system
Vintage Air for their new Mid Mount LS front drive
Hydratech Braking for their hydroboost system
Borgeson for their stainless steering shaft and u joints
Eddie Motorsports for their hood and trunk hinges and misc parts
TMI Products for their seats, door panels, and dash pad
Rock Valley Antique Auto Parts for their stainless fuel tank
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  #614  
Old 05-24-2008, 08:59 PM
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Jody-

I was looking at your pics & trying to figure out if the drains were working against the bottom of the sump (however, they look like they go to the front end sides of the pan)- might they be backing up against oil in the sump? If so, would it be possible to put a check valve inline (uphill) on each return line?

I know it's a pain, but I'd do a 'weep' check on the hot side before removing it. I've found bad seals by running a Q-tip in the area where the oil will puddle inside the turbine housing. This could eliminate your drain system from being at fault.
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  #615  
Old 05-24-2008, 09:08 PM
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Originally Posted by ohcbird View Post
Jody-

I was looking at your pics & trying to figure out if the drains were working against the bottom of the sump (however, they look like they go to the front end sides of the pan)- might they be backing up against oil in the sump? If so, would it be possible to put a check valve inline (uphill) on each return line?

I know it's a pain, but I'd do a 'weep' check on the hot side before removing it. I've found bad seals by running a Q-tip in the area where the oil will puddle inside the turbine housing. This could eliminate your drain system from being at fault.
I think the drains are fine. I spoke with a friend who is pretty much a guru on turboed LSX's (thanks Kurt Urban!!!!!!!!), and he thinks it's too much oil pressure at idle causing the issue. Often it's only one turbo that exhibits it and he used restrictors in the oil feed line to get the pressure at the turbo in the 5-9 psi range. Still plenty of oil, but eliminates the oiling issue at idle, which is where mine seems to be.

I guess as the turbos spool they naturally direct oil down the drain lines, but at idle they aren't moving fast enough to do that and can easily back up in the turbo itself and push oil past the seal. There is no liquid oil coming out the downpipe, so it's pretty minor. And it does not appear to smoke at all cruising down the road, only at idle. It just doesn't take much oil in a hot exhaust pipe to get smoke though...........
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SPECIAL THANKS TO:
Jacob Ehlers and Amsoil for the lubricants and degreasers for my 70 Chevelle project
Shannon at Modo Innovations for the cool billet DBW bracket
Roadster Shop for their Chevelle SPEC Chassis
Dakota Digital for their Chevelle HDX Gauge Package
Painless Performance for their wiring harness

Ron Davis Radiators for their radiator and fan assembly.
Baer Brakes for their front and rear brakes

Texas Speed and Performance for their 427 LS Stroker
American Powertrain for their ProFit Magnum T56 kit
Currie Enterprises for their 9" Third Member
Forgeline for their GF3 Wheels
McLeod Racing for their RXT street twin clutch
Ididit for their steering column
Holley for their EFI and engine parts
Lokar and Clayton Machine for their pedals and door and window handles
Morris Classic Concepts for their 3 point belts and side mirrors
Thermotec for their heat sleeve and sound deadening products
Restomod Air for their Tru Mod A/C kit
Mightymouse Solutions for their catch can
Magnaflow for their 3" exhaust system
Aeromotive for their dual Phantom fuel system
Vintage Air for their new Mid Mount LS front drive
Hydratech Braking for their hydroboost system
Borgeson for their stainless steering shaft and u joints
Eddie Motorsports for their hood and trunk hinges and misc parts
TMI Products for their seats, door panels, and dash pad
Rock Valley Antique Auto Parts for their stainless fuel tank

Last edited by camcojb; 05-24-2008 at 09:20 PM.
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  #616  
Old 05-24-2008, 10:35 PM
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I was thinking the same thing (pressure too high), even with restrictors... but I figured PT had that worked out for ya when they were on the Goat. We've had to use regulators on some uphill setups before (prior to the catridge). Anyway to slip one in there?

Either way- good luck on your final steps! I've long been a fan of your build mentality, and photog ability! How you find the patience to take pics while you're making progress, I don't know.
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  #617  
Old 05-24-2008, 10:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ohcbird View Post
I was thinking the same thing (pressure too high), even with restrictors... but I figured PT had that worked out for ya when they were on the Goat. We've had to use regulators on some uphill setups before (prior to the catridge). Anyway to slip one in there?

Either way- good luck on your final steps! I've long been a fan of your build mentality, and photog ability! How you find the patience to take pics while you're making progress, I don't know.
completely different turbo setup in the GTO; that kit had it's own regulated oil pressure log, no problems.

I'm looking for ways to regulate the pressure down, if you have pics or links it'd be appreciated.

Jody
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PAST CAR PROJECTS

Like Lateral-G on Facebook!

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SPECIAL THANKS TO:
Jacob Ehlers and Amsoil for the lubricants and degreasers for my 70 Chevelle project
Shannon at Modo Innovations for the cool billet DBW bracket
Roadster Shop for their Chevelle SPEC Chassis
Dakota Digital for their Chevelle HDX Gauge Package
Painless Performance for their wiring harness

Ron Davis Radiators for their radiator and fan assembly.
Baer Brakes for their front and rear brakes

Texas Speed and Performance for their 427 LS Stroker
American Powertrain for their ProFit Magnum T56 kit
Currie Enterprises for their 9" Third Member
Forgeline for their GF3 Wheels
McLeod Racing for their RXT street twin clutch
Ididit for their steering column
Holley for their EFI and engine parts
Lokar and Clayton Machine for their pedals and door and window handles
Morris Classic Concepts for their 3 point belts and side mirrors
Thermotec for their heat sleeve and sound deadening products
Restomod Air for their Tru Mod A/C kit
Mightymouse Solutions for their catch can
Magnaflow for their 3" exhaust system
Aeromotive for their dual Phantom fuel system
Vintage Air for their new Mid Mount LS front drive
Hydratech Braking for their hydroboost system
Borgeson for their stainless steering shaft and u joints
Eddie Motorsports for their hood and trunk hinges and misc parts
TMI Products for their seats, door panels, and dash pad
Rock Valley Antique Auto Parts for their stainless fuel tank
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  #618  
Old 05-25-2008, 09:44 AM
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Jody if it's smoking a little less it might be the residual oil in the exhaust and not from the turbo anymore. Did you just run it at idle with the down pipe unhooked? I pounded on my turbo to get it to stop smoking. I bet I did 10 WOT runs through 4 gears just to make sure.

I've also had a few turbo's that didn't like a -4 oil feed line, they liked the -3 better another suggestion from Harry.
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  #619  
Old 05-25-2008, 09:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J2SpeedandCustom View Post
Jody if it's smoking a little less it might be the residual oil in the exhaust and not from the turbo anymore. Did you just run it at idle with the down pipe unhooked? I pounded on my turbo to get it to stop smoking. I bet I did 10 WOT runs through 4 gears just to make sure.

I've also had a few turbo's that didn't like a -4 oil feed line, they liked the -3 better another suggestion from Harry.
well, I'm heading out there in a bit to see what size the restriction is in their fittings. I know they're set up for #4 lines, and I even called them before plumbing the car to verify, but they said #4 is fine. I have heard that #3 solves a lot of issues.

I have some restrictors from another turbo project, and was curious what size they were, and measure the ones in there currently; .062" seems to be the most popular size used on this type and size of turbo to stop the idle oiling issues.

Jody
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Jody

PAST CAR PROJECTS

Like Lateral-G on Facebook!

Follow Lateral-G on Instagram!

SPECIAL THANKS TO:
Jacob Ehlers and Amsoil for the lubricants and degreasers for my 70 Chevelle project
Shannon at Modo Innovations for the cool billet DBW bracket
Roadster Shop for their Chevelle SPEC Chassis
Dakota Digital for their Chevelle HDX Gauge Package
Painless Performance for their wiring harness

Ron Davis Radiators for their radiator and fan assembly.
Baer Brakes for their front and rear brakes

Texas Speed and Performance for their 427 LS Stroker
American Powertrain for their ProFit Magnum T56 kit
Currie Enterprises for their 9" Third Member
Forgeline for their GF3 Wheels
McLeod Racing for their RXT street twin clutch
Ididit for their steering column
Holley for their EFI and engine parts
Lokar and Clayton Machine for their pedals and door and window handles
Morris Classic Concepts for their 3 point belts and side mirrors
Thermotec for their heat sleeve and sound deadening products
Restomod Air for their Tru Mod A/C kit
Mightymouse Solutions for their catch can
Magnaflow for their 3" exhaust system
Aeromotive for their dual Phantom fuel system
Vintage Air for their new Mid Mount LS front drive
Hydratech Braking for their hydroboost system
Borgeson for their stainless steering shaft and u joints
Eddie Motorsports for their hood and trunk hinges and misc parts
TMI Products for their seats, door panels, and dash pad
Rock Valley Antique Auto Parts for their stainless fuel tank
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  #620  
Old 05-25-2008, 10:19 AM
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the stock inlet fittings from Precision are .040" restrictors. That's already smaller than what most people use. I do have a set of .035" restrictors from a GT ball-bearing turbo setup I had on another car, tempted to give them a try.

Jody
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Jody

PAST CAR PROJECTS

Like Lateral-G on Facebook!

Follow Lateral-G on Instagram!

SPECIAL THANKS TO:
Jacob Ehlers and Amsoil for the lubricants and degreasers for my 70 Chevelle project
Shannon at Modo Innovations for the cool billet DBW bracket
Roadster Shop for their Chevelle SPEC Chassis
Dakota Digital for their Chevelle HDX Gauge Package
Painless Performance for their wiring harness

Ron Davis Radiators for their radiator and fan assembly.
Baer Brakes for their front and rear brakes

Texas Speed and Performance for their 427 LS Stroker
American Powertrain for their ProFit Magnum T56 kit
Currie Enterprises for their 9" Third Member
Forgeline for their GF3 Wheels
McLeod Racing for their RXT street twin clutch
Ididit for their steering column
Holley for their EFI and engine parts
Lokar and Clayton Machine for their pedals and door and window handles
Morris Classic Concepts for their 3 point belts and side mirrors
Thermotec for their heat sleeve and sound deadening products
Restomod Air for their Tru Mod A/C kit
Mightymouse Solutions for their catch can
Magnaflow for their 3" exhaust system
Aeromotive for their dual Phantom fuel system
Vintage Air for their new Mid Mount LS front drive
Hydratech Braking for their hydroboost system
Borgeson for their stainless steering shaft and u joints
Eddie Motorsports for their hood and trunk hinges and misc parts
TMI Products for their seats, door panels, and dash pad
Rock Valley Antique Auto Parts for their stainless fuel tank
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