Which rear suspension?

[MoparCar]

Mopar E-body please.........

[wedgehead]

I second the E-body.

[Marcus SC&C]

Thanks Tim, straight from the horses mouth. Poor wording on my part, I meant to say that the welding and surface finishes of the install (including the car ie. rusty parts) weren`t done yet.

The weld on brackets are a great option for a cleaner look. They`re almost elegant.
You can also get the swaybar mounts (either style) for $50 without the bar if you want to leave your options open but don`t want to cough up the extra for the whole bar now. Personally I love that adj. rate bar! The axle mounted bar with its billet arms is really pretty and functional too but tuning options make me all warm and fuzzy.

Maybe Tim can give some more info on other applications but last I talked to Chris there are plans to do a G-Link for all of the G-Bar applications so E-Body should be coming. Knowing how long this stuff takes to do right I suspect it may be a while though. In the mean time the existing G-Bar for those cars is a darn good system in it`s own right and we`ll be offering billet/greasable pivot ball double adj. arms for them like those on the G-Link. We have a Hellwig adj. rate rear swaybar for them as well. That gets you pretty close to a G-Link. Mark SC&C

[Marcus SC&C]

Just a quick update on the G-Link. They`re shipping which is very cool! We also just became aware of a clearance issue when using the bolt on G-Link LCA brackets in mini tubbed applications. Some big mini tubb only wheel dia. and backspace combinations may not clear the lower coil over mounting bracket. The arms and brackets are much more beefy and they added additional adjustment holes so the brackets are a bit larger than the original G-Bar. If you want to run minitubbs just select the weld on lower arm mounts. They can be installed further inboard for clearance and Chassisworks is already working on instructions and an offset bushing kit for the front of the lower arms to preserve the correct geometry. The upper coilover mounts have plenty of holes for adjustment so no changes will be required there at all. CW will be doing at least one narrowed rear swaybar for minitubb applications and the adj. rate Hellwig rear bars should work as well. Thanks to Frank at Prodigy who`s helping Chassisworks with the fittment details on his mini tubbed cars. Mark SC&C

[Tony@AirRideTech]

Originally Posted by wedgehead

I second the E-body.

http://www.ridetech.com/products/Chr...es-824-75.html

[autoxcuda]

Here's a guy with lots of actual competitive autocross and road racing experiance. And he's a hands on guy that works on his own stuff to boot.

And it's like everyone just blew right by this post.

Originally Posted by David Pozzi

I was very impressed with the Lateral Dynamics 3 link on Bad Penny, this system would have to be rated at the top right now.

It's not like you really notice "wow, this rear suspension is really working". It's more like you don't notice any instability or bumps upsetting the rear, often getting something right just takes it away from the driver's perception of it. I also found that the case with the Bilstein shocks on Penny, there just wasn't an issue raised with the shocks. My hat's off to Steve's Bilstein guy.

The car did everything I asked of it and was very easy to drive, yes we had understeer, but other than that, the whole package just flat worked very well. A large part of my getting good results in the car was how easy it was to just hop in and drive the snot out of it! The rear did NOTHING funny, put the power down VERY well from standing start to 95mph curves at 1.2g's

I'm a big fan of leaf springs, I think the only drawback they have is higher unsprung weight, this makes them less ideal for ride characteristics. You can put spherical bearings in them like GW cat 5, but those springs are very stiff and you feel the bumps much more through the bearings. Stock rubber front bushings are better riding but I'm sure you lose a little bit of directional stability.

Hopefully I will be working hard on my 67 Camaro this winter, and am now trying to choose what rear suspension I will use. I am torn between just throwing the Hotchkis leafs on it that I already have and suspect will be a tad soft, or going whole hog on the LD 3 link. With a roll bar in the car, I doubt I'll ever put a passenger in the back seat, it would be suicide. It's just that this was my first car, and I will be keeping it fairly stock looking inside, without the usual PT bling, I actually LIKE the factory gauges, -but it will be kinda serious in the engine and suspension dept.

I see a lot of value in the DSE quadralink, G bar/Air bar, Speed Tech torque arm or Alston rear. I doubt anyone driving on the street would need more, not to say they would not work on a track at all, there is no reason they should not work great. It's hard for me to comment on them since I haven't driven cars with them.

Lap time wise, I doubt there is a big difference between any of them, but for the highest driver confidence / comfort level, and tuneability, I'd lean towards the Lateral Dynamics 3 link. The things I don't like about it are the extra tubing/bracing/linkage for the bellcrank. I'd like to use a 12 bolt rear axle, but access to the rear cover would be tough. I think I'd have to switch to a Ford 9" rear.
David

[70rs]

Thanks for reposting that. ^^^^^ It has a ton of really good insight in there. I know I blew past it the first time I went through this thread. I should have paid attention.

[mstennes]

Originally Posted by autoxcuda

Here's a guy with lots of actual competitive autocross and road racing experiance. And he's a hands on guy that works on his own stuff to boot.

And it's like everyone just blew right by this post.

Thats where I'm at, is the Quadri or G-link "THAT" much better to justify the cost or is it the bling? If your not racing what good is tuneality? Once its set for the street, doubtful it will ever be readjusted again. What I'm looking for is a wider rear tire, but again at what expense and is the worth, what, 2"?
I'm just trying to better hook up my LS7, and who knows I may be looking at it all wrong? I have Hotchkis now for rear springs with a set of Cat 5's sitting on a shelf. What gains do you really get with mini tubs, wider tires before I get a serious pushing effect? I mean how wide before I experiance new problems? I also love Lateral Dynamics rear suspension, but where are they now? Last I heard it was not shipping. So now its DSE's Quadri, which I heard is a pain for the exhaust, and the G-link, which I know nothing about.

[ProdigyCustoms]

Here is a G link istall we just finished. Pretty cool stuff and a easy install. The adjustability is especially nice if you are dual purposing the car. The ride of any good four link compared to performance leafs is reason enough to run a 4 link. Tire wise, you can mini tub and run 335s with leafs or four links. But doing a mini tub leaf spring car today is a pure welcome to 1999 set up. The net cost of components difference between a mini tub G link or Quadra Link kit and a mini tub leaf spring kit is about $1500. Easily recovered in added value of the finished car.

[ibdmann]

awesome car, you've got some skill frank