The Cormaro......

[Jim Nilsen]

Originally Posted by waynieZ

Jim I'm not sure who's car it was, but I saw one put down low in between front of the motor and the radiator. Since your motor is set back maybe it will fit there.

I have eyed that spot many times and always wonder if it would block the air flow around the engine? It is actually the radiator that cools the most instead of the air that goes over the engine so it might work there?

Along the downtube in the engine bay seems like a good spot too.

I do know it is the right thing to put in because it will be needed in those real long hard turns.

The cooler may not be needed but would be a good thing to have.

I keep hoping I get the engine done in time.

[Jim Nilsen]

I will be picking up the new engine tommorow and am ready to start reassembling everything. The bellhousing is always the most fun and hope it goes easy this time. I already have offset dowels and hope they are the right amount of offset.

I have to get my pilot bearing out of the old engine or get a new one. It went in tight so it might not cooperate,we'll see?


The brakes are flushed with new fluid and feel better than before. If they can survive Road America they should be good for a few more laps and some more setup time.

I have a better program to start up with than the last time and know where to fix it if needed. The computer should keep it out of trouble with the wideband and I will know exactly what the ratio is this time.

I am not sure if I can get it all done right by the weekend but I have a good chance if it all goes back together easy enough.

Hoping for the best

[GregWeld]

You might try data logging the O2 and the VE -- so you can take a look at how much correction the O2 is having to do. This will also tell you where you have work to do on the VE's.

The amount of correction available can be set to a max of about 25%.

Hope this all goes perfectly for you!

[69MyWay]

FYI - if you go to:

http://www.accel-dfi.com/

Look down to the right you will see a streaming video.

Mark Remell prepared this video as a primer to get people in the right direction.

You'll see the 76 Trans Am in the intro with me introducing it - we put the Thruster Gen 7 on that car. WOW! I had Mark do the tune. He spent an afternoon doing the set up, then we road tested it for a couple of hours.

AMAZING. Having a pro-tuner available made life simple. Mark is a good guy and knows these systems inside out - It takes some trial an error to dial them in...but when they are in they are awesome.

When they are off - they are a nightmare.

[waynieZ]

Good luck Jim I hope it all goes well for you.

[Jim Nilsen]

Originally Posted by GregWeld

You might try data logging the O2 and the VE -- so you can take a look at how much correction the O2 is having to do. This will also tell you where you have work to do on the VE's.

The amount of correction available can be set to a max of about 25%.

Hope this all goes perfectly for you!

That is the beauty of the wideband, datalogging. I think I have a good grasp of the program now to begin to use it the way it can be, there is so much it can do that to be smart enough to use it all would take me a long time to learn.

The bell housing alignment kicked my ass again to get it within .003. The last time it took 3 days too, the bellhousing must have been drilled wrong and I had to actually file the holes a bit to get it to go high enough and have clearance. The holes kept me from going where it had to go.

The new engine is 9.4:1 compression and are 2.02 /1.94 angle plug with 40 more cc more runner size. It should wake it up some more and give it more top end.

I hope to have it up and running tommorow some time if it all goes well.

[Jim Nilsen]

The new engine is in and it is doing well in its own right but the ignition system is kicking my butt now. I am getting a code 66 which is an overcurrent in the igniton system.

There has been a lot posted at pro touring.com about it and it is a mystery as to how just changing the long block would make it change and give it a code that shuts the ecu down.

The engine now has angle plug heads and the plug wires are in a bit differnent positions. They are Taylor thundervolt wires and are as goos new. The rotor for some reason has gotten as loose as a goose and can move back and forth the distance of the terminal in the cap and it can also rock up and down on the axis of the post of the distributor.

I am getting a new rotor tomorrow and hope to see it be the problem with it dying . The next step is to reroute the wires and get a couple of new ones to make them all the right length they need to be again. The thought is it may be the plug wires causing the over amperage going back to the ecu.

Accel says that the code 66 is caused by a bad coil or 6A box and to replace them both. I did replace them and it did not stop the code 66 from happening. The engine would sometimes run for 20 minutes and sometimes only for a few seconds but it always tries to start up and run.

This has been kicking my butt for a week now.

Any thoughts are welcome and if you have had any experience with the code or similar problem with an Accel system let me know.

It has to be something simple and what it is has to show up sooner or later.

With all the problem you have had Greg do you have any thoughts?

Thanks for any help you can give.

[Bow Tie 67]

Originally Posted by Jim Nilsen

The new engine is in and it is doing well in its own right but the ignition system is kicking my butt now. I am getting a code 66 which is an overcurrent in the igniton system.

There has been a lot posted at pro touring.com about it and it is a mystery as to how just changing the long block would make it change and give it a code that shuts the ecu down.

The engine now has angle plug heads and the plug wires are in a bit differnent positions. They are Taylor thundervolt wires and are as goos new. The rotor for some reason has gotten as loose as a goose and can move back and forth the distance of the terminal in the cap and it can also rock up and down on the axis of the post of the distributor.

I am getting a new rotor tomorrow and hope to see it be the problem with it dying . The next step is to reroute the wires and get a couple of new ones to make them all the right length they need to be again. The thought is it may be the plug wires causing the over amperage going back to the ecu.

Accel says that the code 66 is caused by a bad coil or 6A box and to replace them both. I did replace them and it did not stop the code 66 from happening. The engine would sometimes run for 20 minutes and sometimes only for a few seconds but it always tries to start up and run.

This has been kicking my butt for a week now.

Any thoughts are welcome and if you have had any experience with the code or similar problem with an Accel system let me know.

It has to be something simple and what it is has to show up sooner or later.

With all the problem you have had Greg do you have any thoughts?

Thanks for any help you can give.

Jim the only thing I can think of that would have changed would be disturbing a ground. Go double check all your grounds for good connections. ie: remove paint at attach point, some gold anti-seize will help the electrical connection at the threads. I did not read other posts hope this is not repeated information.

Make sure your battery is still up to snuff also, again check its ground and positive connections, not to mention the charging circuit. More resistance should lower current draw, but who knows exactly what the ignition system is seeing.

[GregWeld]

Jim --

Never have had that code.

A couple things come to mind just to toss out there.... make sure your ECM is not near the ignition box... they don't play nice.

Did you ground the block to the chassis etc.

Resistor plugs must be used (as I understand it).

I have that same set of plug wires...

[Jim Nilsen]

Originally Posted by GregWeld

Jim --

Never have had that code.

A couple things come to mind just to toss out there.... make sure your ECM is not near the ignition box... they don't play nice.

Did you ground the block to the chassis etc.

Resistor plugs must be used (as I understand it).

I have that same set of plug wires...

All is good with the grounds and the distance between parts is good.

It all worked before the engine change without having this code come up. it is a simple problem doing it or I have an ecu problem now. But when it runs it seems good so the ignition box and coil along with the sparkplug wires and the whole dizzy setup is causing it somehow.

I should have the new rotor by noon and will know if it is the cause, it had to be replaced anyway to make sure it is not the problem and I have learned to do 1 thing at a time to find the culprit.

Thanks