427ci LS2 sleeved, dry sump oil pump, engine build & install, 69 Camaro

[chr2002ca]

Originally Posted by DaleTx

When I bought the ZR1 clutch kit it came with the clutch, aluminum flywheel, and a GM hydraulic slave cylinder.

GM slave cylinder

Hi Dale. I'm actually installing a T56 Magnum into my '69 next month(on a BBC), so we're in the same boat. I have the transmission and the same bellhousing as yours sitting on my garage floor also. I went with a Speedtech crossmember and I'll be using a Centerforce DYAD clutch. I have the Keisler/Wilwood master cylinder and firewall mount. You can see pics of that in my build thread. I've been told that the GM collar and hydraulic throwout bearing will work fine for my application, similar to what you have. When you ordered your ZR-1 kit, did it have individual part numbers for the hydraulic throwout bearing and collar? If so, could you share them? If not, what was the part # on your clutch kit? Thanks in advance for anything you an share on that.

I look forward to your write-up about this installation. I'll being doing a similar write-up so maybe we can compare notes and help each other out.

[chr2002ca]

I think I finally found the part number on that slave cylinder. It's 24237569. Not sure if you thought about this, but I've heard remote bleeder lines can be very helpful when dealing with these hydraulic setups. I found a few sources for these that plug into this particular slave cylinder in case you're interested:

http://www.texas-speed.com/p-3051-ti...FawWMgodaGwALQ
http://www.vetteweb.com/tech/vemp_10...m/viewall.html

[DaleTx]

Originally Posted by chr2002ca

Hi Dale. I'm actually installing a T56 Magnum into my '69 next month(on a BBC), so we're in the same boat. I have the transmission and the same bellhousing as yours sitting on my garage floor also. I went with a Speedtech crossmember and I'll be using a Centerforce DYAD clutch. I have the Keisler/Wilwood master cylinder and firewall mount. You can see pics of that in my build thread. I've been told that the GM collar and hydraulic throwout bearing will work fine for my application, similar to what you have. When you ordered your ZR-1 kit, did it have individual part numbers for the hydraulic throwout bearing and collar? If so, could you share them? If not, what was the part # on your clutch kit? Thanks in advance for anything you an share on that.

I look forward to your write-up about this installation. I'll being doing a similar write-up so maybe we can compare notes and help each other out.

Chris, Thanks for the information on the remote bleeder line... I will definitely go with that set up. The part number for the ZR1 clutch kit I bought from Katech is KAT-A6184. The part number you listed for the hydraulic throwout bearing is correct. This throwout bearing is shorter to allow for the extra width of the ZR1 twin disc clutch. I took a couple pictures that show all the numbers on the GM throwout bearing that I received with the clutch kit. This weekend I should find out how the stack up comes out.

That would be great to compare notes as we go along on our builds... I will be following your thread . Also, I have some pictures of a cold air intake that I built to draw air from the outside through the cowl induction hood that I will post up later.

[DaleTx]

Originally Posted by Sieg

Found it: https://lateral-g.net/forums/show...2&postcount=37

Old school fabrication is good therapy. Nice work!

Nice job on the spoiler modifications on your car... that's a great idea. Do you have any pictures looking at it from underneath? I was just wondering how wide the air gap is in the center of the spoiler. Sounds like it helped reduce the temps under the hood quite a bit.

[Sieg]

Originally Posted by DaleTx

Nice job on the spoiler modifications on your car... that's a great idea. Do you have any pictures looking at it from underneath? I was just wondering how wide the air gap is in the center of the spoiler. Sounds like it helped reduce the temps under the hood quite a bit.

It dropped the temp roughly 5-10* in our weather. The opening is 25.5" close to the outside edges of the turn signal lenses. A closeout panel/show panel should improve cooling by channeling a little more are through the radiator. The fiberglass screen material on the backside of my grille is to minimize bug splatter. This pic should give you reference points:

[DaleTx]

Originally Posted by Sieg

It dropped the temp roughly 5-10* in our weather. The opening is 25.5" close to the outside edges of the turn signal lenses. A closeout panel/show panel should improve cooling by channeling a little more are through the radiator. The fiberglass screen material on the backside of my grille is to minimize bug splatter

Sieg, Thanks for the details on the front spoiler mods... and other ideas you've brought up... I appreciate it.


The past few days I have been reading up on the build threads here at Lat-G. Lots of good stuff going on here.... great site

Tomorrow the Muncie is coming out and the T56 Magnum is going in

[Sieg]

Originally Posted by DaleTx

Tomorrow the Muncie is coming out and the T56 Magnum is going in

If you pull that off "tomorrow"

PS - I don't recommend using a crowbar to lever the subframe down to fit the cross member.

[DaleTx]

That's a nasty cut... I made it through the day with no wounds

Made a lot of progress today... but ran into some fitment issues installing the new trans. I started out by removing the driver and passenger seats and the center console. I wanted to be prepared in case I had to modify the tunnel.




Next I pulled out the driveline, crossmember, and the Hurst shifter.






This is a shot of the cutout as the car came from the factory. They used a torch to cut the hole for the shifter. The writing with the white marker was done on the assembly line. I bought this car 30 years ago from my parents neighbor who bought the car brand new. I was the first one to ever take the console off.




Next I pulled the Muncie trans out. I use a transmission jack with a custom made wood support that keeps the transmission from rotating. I have taken this trans out so many times because of clutch problems, oil leaks, and syncro problems, that I rigged this up to make the job easier.






This is a Muncie trans with an Autogear Supercase. The Autogear case has needle bearing pivots for the shift linkage pivots, a thick cast iron mid-plate for extra bearing support, and a thicker casting in front for more bearing support. This case is designed to handle more HP than a stock Muncie.

Unfortunately the internals failed this time around and I siezed up third gear on the main shaft the first time out on the track with the new engine. I have spent so much money modifying and fixing this trans that I could have paid for the new T56. Anyway... I am glad to finally have the new trans. It will be nice to have the new technology, crisp shifting, and the overdrive gears for some longer road trips in the future




Here is a shot of the bell housing... I lowered the engine down in the back and was able to reach all the fasteners to remove it.




This is a shot of the ZR1 Corvette clutch.




I have more coming on the problems with fitment

[DaleTx]

Yesterday I ran into problems installing the new transmision. The dimensions on the new set up do not match the old set up. The distance from the face of the bellhousing to the face of the throwout bearing are different by about 7/8". There is not enough clearance for the clutch to clear the new throwout bearing.


Here is a picture of the old set up with the mechanical throwout bearing




Here is the new set up with the hydraulic throwout bearing






Here is a picture from under the car that shows the depth of the clutch from the back of the engine to the tip of the fingers on the clutch. The measurement is about 4-1/8"






This is a picture from the face of the bellhousing to the face of the hydraulic throwout bearing pushed back as far as it goes. I'm not sure what to do now? Either the bellhousing has to be spaced out or I need a lower profile hydraulic throwout bearing. I'm not sure why the stack up didn't work. The throwout bearing in the kit was supposed to be sized to work with the ZR1 twin disc clutch.

It seems like if I could space the bellhousing out about 7/8" this would solve the problem.

Any thoughts or ideas on what to do would be appreciated, Thanks.

[DaleTx]

I re-positioned the Tremec shifter to the forward position... so I removed the shifter.

Now I can see how the aftermarket shifters that don't have any seals would leak oil. In the forward position the shifter is directly above the gear and would have a direct spray of oil. I'm suprised they would have designed and sold a shifter with no seal





Here is a shot of the Tremec shifter from underneath. This shifter has a nice designed oil seal.




I went with the forward position so the shifter would fit through the console.