The panty dropper

[WSSix]

No progress really to report. I do have my rear housing modified with 9in ends and the tubes welded after being squared. I just ordered some parts from Summit to fill the housing with.

I've also ordered new springs from Keith at Custom Works. The monoleafs ride and handle great but raised the car up. I want it to be lower. It's really that simple.

I do have a couple questions. Are ARP ring bolts worth it? Should I also upgrade my yoke to a 1350 size? Figure the engine will make 500hp/tq at the flywheel.

thanks

[WSSix]

Alright, I answered my own question on the yoke/u joints. In 76, GM switched to the 3R u joints front and rear. 3R stands for the Three Rivers plant that made the drive shafts. The official size of these is 1344. U joint sizes increase with number. So 1344 u joints are slightly smaller than 1350's. Meaning, switching to 1350's is a waste in most cases, especially mine, as it's barely larger.

Also, I found out that while Chrysler ring gear bolts are the same thread as GM. They use a smaller head. This is bad unless you use a washer as well. The bolt will back out. Best to use a correct GM or GM size bolt. Don't think I'll need ARP bolts but I'm getting ready to order my gears so we will see.

[woody80z28]

This is a nice build...first time I've looked through it.

I have the Lokar cables in my car and they work great. I'm trying to think of what might cause the problem. Seems the throw on the stock pedal should be good enough, but I am using a 4th gen handbrake for mine with Blazer rear disc (same style as C5). The Blazer ebrake shoe has an adjuster at the bottom, does the C5 have this also?

[WSSix]

Yes, the pads can be adjusted a little. I'm going to investigate the issue further when I build the new rear end. I should be assembling that next weekend. I really hope I can make it work as is. Putting a hand brake in doesn't work with my plans. Then again, plans can change.

Thanks Woody.

[WSSix]

Well, I've been working on the headers and the rear end on the car. The rear is painted and ready to start final assembly. I put the 3.90 gears and the Tru-Trac in a few weekends ago. I just have to pull the current rear and transfer the brakes over. I can't do that until later though. This works out pretty well since I really need to have the rear end out of the car to do the exhaust system.

The driver's side header is designed and tacked together. I want to wait until I have the passenger side completed before I do any final welding. I'm also thinking I may wait until I have the exhaust system tacked in place before I final weld. We'll see.

Here are some pictures of the header. I'm really happy with the design. For me, headers need to look good on the engine and have a good flow to their design versus just throwing them on there in whatever manner fits. All the primaries are between 29-32 inches basically. Ground clearance is great as it's only 1/2 half inch below the subframe rails. It's still one inch above the front subframe cross brace though. I'll get a picture showing that when done. This one slips in and out from underneath with ease. Spark plug clearance is better than what I had with this engine while it was in my 4th gen. I do have to make or buy a different spark plug tool to make number 7 easy to change. I can change the oil filter without getting oil all over the header as well. The number 5 primary is 1.5 inches away from the filter at its closest point. I am close to the floor pan and the lower control arm brace. I believe I'll be fine but I do intend to assemble the exhaust and drive it around to verify it works before having them coated. This has been a challenge but it's been fun.









Does anyone think it would be a good idea to connect the primaries together with some pieces of flat steel where they are very close together or touching like the #5 and #7 primaries do?

I believe I will be able to make the passenger side look like the drive's side from the top. Underneath will be a different story since I have to dodge a starter and knock sensor. I was working on it last night and I'm confident I can make it work and get similar lengths. I won't know for sure until I try though. My other concern are the fuel lines and can I make it so the starter can be removed without taking the header off.

Stay tuned.

Thanks.

[GregWeld]

They look great Trey!

So is the plan to cut them out of the flange so you can weld the tubes where you can't get to the weld joint??

[WSSix]

Correct. I'll pull each primary off again in order to do the final welding. I think I'll spend some time welding up what I can easily reach while the header is assembled like this. I'm not sure how much I need to be concerned with anything warping or moving but I figure doing what I could while it's assembled should help mitigate that potential issue. I also have to check clearance between the primaries and bolts, install the merge bullets, O2 bungs, and the collector extensions. Those will add a few more inches to the length of the headers. There's a lot left to do but the design is hopefully complete.

Thanks

[GregWeld]

Trey -- EVERY weld warps and moves the metal around. Period. Manufacturers weld their stuff in jigs that hold the tubes.

I would - as you said - weld everything you can while they're still in the flange... and when you cut them out - I'd expect them to have "tension". But that should be okay because you should have room to re-install them one by one as they're not yet welded with the "star" at the ends. Tacking them up the way you've done will also help you hold position.

The most critical piece of the puzzle is welding the tubes to the flange... that flange can't be warped!

By the way -- check your header bolt clearances!! You may want to or have to dimple the tube at the flange to get the bolt to clear or to be able to actually get a wrench on the bolt head... don't forget about the washer (larger diameter sometimes than the bolt).

[SlowProgress]

Those look great. Building a set of headers has always been a bucket-list thing for me. I just never have been brave enough to try yet!

[jarhead]

Awesome job Trey !