This is MY 67 Camaro

[SlowProgress]

I agree with Wayne and Robert. I clamped the tabs as straight as possible and drilled to match the holes. This works best if the connectors aren't already welded in because I drilled in from each side, rather than all the way through. I used two crush sleeves per side assuming the end cap would stiffen the hole closest to the end. I just drilled a small hole and plug welded the sleeve to hold it in place. Here's a couple of photos. Once the tabs are tacked to the subframe then take the bolts out and the tabs stay with the frame to be welded later, or immediately as you like.

Scott

[waynieZ]

On mine if needed I'll put a plate behind the tab and have it welded to the sub frame and tab.

[Evan Iroc-Z]

I am not a 1st gen expert, but aren't you afraid of the bolt holes stretching with bolt-on SFCs? I have a 3rd gen and that is why most will not go with the bolt-on version, due to holes stretching.

Most of these cars are being, almost, purpose built for racing of some sort and that will put a very large load on the SFC.

Again, not an expert, just thought I would ask.

[waynieZ]

On my car it will be mostly a street car but when I had Mike build the car he suggested putting convertible rockers in which have a third piece of metal running inside the inner and outer rocker. When I got it home I had a friend help me put it on jack stands and one didn't get put to the same level as the other three. We lowered the car and when I went around and checked them one wasn't touching and the car did not flex it stayed above the last jack stand, and that's without the frame connectors welded and bolted to the sub frame.

[Sonar Chief]

Originally Posted by waynieZ

On my car it will be mostly a street car but when I had Mike build the car he suggested putting convertible rockers in which have a third piece of metal running inside the inner and outer rocker. When I got it home I had a friend help me put it on jack stands and one didn't get put to the same level as the other three. We lowered the car and when I went around and checked them one wasn't touching and the car did not flex it stayed above the last jack stand, and that's without the frame connectors welded and bolted to the sub frame.

I never heard of putting convertible rockers in a coupe .... makes sense thou. What about welding in that floor piece that are only on coupes? Think I saw it on one of Cris's bulds, that may be feasible ....

Thanks for the inputs ....

[Sonar Chief]

Originally Posted by Evan Iroc-Z

I am not a 1st gen expert, but aren't you afraid of the bolt holes stretching with bolt-on SFCs? I have a 3rd gen and that is why most will not go with the bolt-on version, due to holes stretching.

Most of these cars are being, almost, purpose built for racing of some sort and that will put a very large load on the SFC.

Again, not an expert, just thought I would ask.

I would have to have an engineer answer that .... any takers?

Thanks for chiming in ...

[Sonar Chief]

Originally Posted by SlowProgress

I agree with Wayne and Robert. I clamped the tabs as straight as possible and drilled to match the holes. This works best if the connectors aren't already welded in because I drilled in from each side, rather than all the way through. I used two crush sleeves per side assuming the end cap would stiffen the hole closest to the end. I just drilled a small hole and plug welded the sleeve to hold it in place. Here's a couple of photos. Once the tabs are tacked to the subframe then take the bolts out and the tabs stay with the frame to be welded later, or immediately as you like.

Scott

Thanks Scott for the pixs .... looks sturdy enough. I like Wanye's car have the connector further away from the frames and could not utilize all three holes ... may have to have a pattern laser cut that is longer.

Thanks for the pixs, looks good, have you had time to test the connectors?

[SlowProgress]

Originally Posted by Evan Iroc-Z

I am not a 1st gen expert, but aren't you afraid of the bolt holes stretching with bolt-on SFCs? I have a 3rd gen and that is why most will not go with the bolt-on version, due to holes stretching ......

Originally Posted by Sonar Chief

Thanks Scott for the pixs .... looks sturdy enough. I like Wanye's car have the connector further away from the frames and could not utilize all three holes ... may have to have a pattern laser cut that is longer.
Thanks for the pixs, looks good, have you had time to test the connectors?

I originally had bolt in connectors that sandwiched under the body mounts and front spring perches. Even those were pretty stiff. I could jack up one side of the car and the other would lift (but not perfectly straight). I think DSE intended these to weld in both the front and back but welding the back and along the floor will really improve the stiffness over my old bolt in connectors, not to mention how they don't hang down so far. I have not jacked the car up on one corner yet because my tabs are only tacked in place.
Answering Evan’s question about bolt strength I really am not a fastener expert but if you look online one 5/16 grade 5 bolt can hold roughly 5,000lbs in single shear. The connectors are mounted in double shear so assume around 10,000 lbs per bolt more-or-less. I know that is rough but the order magnitude tells me those three bolts are good for up around 30,000 lbs load. I purposely drilled the holes tight so they won’t loosen. I didn't want to make it perfect just better than before and allow the subframe to be removable so I can upgrade in the future. That’s about all the thought I put into it.

BTW one of the structural engineers at work reads these posts so if my estimate is all wrong he will probably say something :-)

[Sonar Chief]

and I'm working on the Camaro ....YEAH! Yep this session of school is over and I have 10 days to work on the car w/o homework. Then another session starts on the 16th!

Figured I'd get out there and burn some metal ... fit up the end caps for the connectors and welded them in place, always helps when I use the spectacles! A little salad dressing and they are good to go.

I still have to pull the sub out tonight and get ready to epoxy the floor pans before I permanently weld in the connectors, and I have to weld on the tabs to connect to the sub ... but one thing at a time. Weather is good so epoxy comes first and welding later this week.

Here is some porn to look at .....










Thanks for looking, more to come .....

[SlowProgress]

Good stuff. Man 10 whole days to work on the car. It should be finished by then !