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  #71  
Old 08-04-2013, 07:28 AM
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Well, like I said, I got the engine at least set in the frame. Had a rather unique tool that I used, as the frame was set a little closer to the door than I had planned.
Anyway, I had rented this for another project here at the house, and thought I would seize this time to use it.






So this is the outcome of the event. Rather painless in setting it in. As you can see it is jut resting on the pan and the trans has the mount in. I am playing with the idea of using Camaro mounts so you can see them next to the stock Chevelle towers. I will need to see what I can do on this. I think engine setback is good, let me know if I am wrong here guys. Let me know if there are any other pic that are needed to make that decision.











HEEP
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  #72  
Old 08-04-2013, 07:51 AM
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Heep, that is a rather unique tool. LOL!! If you set the engine back, are you gonna redo the firewall to accomodate the engine? Also, why won't you just get some LS adapter plates?
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  #73  
Old 08-18-2013, 07:49 AM
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Alright guys, I need some advice. I have purchased the GM conversion pan from a member here and got the engine set in. Right now, I have a 3.7 degree angle front to rear on the engine so it will clear the steering linkages. Now, I'm also more forward of where I would like to place the engine as it is about three inches from the firewall. The one thing holding me back right now is the trans mount. I will need to see what I can do to make it move farther back.

I'm ok with using the normal Ls swap mounts or fabricating whatever I ned to make it work with the camaro mounts.

So what is the optimal angle for the engine to set in? Would I be better off to purchase the Mast pan to make sure everything clears properly? Do I need to set the engine back further than the three inches to the firewall?

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HEEP

Last edited by HEEP; 08-18-2013 at 07:52 AM. Reason: Brain faster than my fingers
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  #74  
Old 08-18-2013, 09:14 AM
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I'd purchase the Mast pan. I have one and it's a nice piece. Costly, but nice.
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  #75  
Old 08-18-2013, 02:39 PM
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Ok heepster, mine is about 1/2" off the firewall. I made my own mounts, and my own tranny crossmember.


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70 velle' on custom chassis w/custom RideTech coilovers, RED sleeved 434” with Mamo 265’s, F-body Magnum, 12 bolt 3:73, wilwood 6/4's, bla, bla, bla...build. thread https://lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=39631
New 434” engine build here https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...ved-block.html

Thanks Dad!!

My Chevelle is old school... It has a belt driven power steering pump.
They're 17's, but I keep em clean!
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  #76  
Old 08-18-2013, 02:42 PM
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Everything clears great. My vacuum hose for the brake booster just touches the firewall. I'm not so sure if I'm gonna keep it or not, as I might go manual brakes.

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70 velle' on custom chassis w/custom RideTech coilovers, RED sleeved 434” with Mamo 265’s, F-body Magnum, 12 bolt 3:73, wilwood 6/4's, bla, bla, bla...build. thread https://lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=39631
New 434” engine build here https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...ved-block.html

Thanks Dad!!

My Chevelle is old school... It has a belt driven power steering pump.
They're 17's, but I keep em clean!
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  #77  
Old 08-18-2013, 02:52 PM
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Here's a pic of the steering box clearance. I basically set mine back as far as possible during mockup. Of course I had my headers installed, and I put the steering box on, to make sure all my stuff was covered. Having your oil pan on will be mandatory to ensure your golden on fitment. I'm using the Holley pan. It's about 1/4" off the top of the crossmember, and I also have a ton of clearance on the sump of the pan to the crossmember. I researched this a lot. Some people reported that they had to raise the engine, in order to get tie rod to pan clearance. My engine is as low in the car, and as far back in the car as possible with a stock firewall, and I have no problems anywhere.

Now I have to go update my build thread with new pics. I finally got my body on my chassis!
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Scott
---------------------------------------------------------------
70 velle' on custom chassis w/custom RideTech coilovers, RED sleeved 434” with Mamo 265’s, F-body Magnum, 12 bolt 3:73, wilwood 6/4's, bla, bla, bla...build. thread https://lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=39631
New 434” engine build here https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...ved-block.html

Thanks Dad!!

My Chevelle is old school... It has a belt driven power steering pump.
They're 17's, but I keep em clean!

Last edited by Che70velle; 08-18-2013 at 02:54 PM.
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  #78  
Old 08-18-2013, 06:12 PM
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Scott, thanks for the update on this. I just posted in your thread. I was just looking at your mounts, and was thinking of doing something similar. I created the normal mounting plates today and bolted them on. Trying to decide what to do here. I really hate to spend more money on another pan.

I am going to have to come up with a modification to the trans crossmember to get the engine moved back as far as yours. This should not be an issue, as I will just have something lasered out to weld together. I am running the HPI Customs frame kit, and I think it is designed for autos.

HEEP
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  #79  
Old 08-19-2013, 09:11 PM
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Yes sir, no problem. You know, I'm under 2 hours away from Chattanooga if you'd like to have a looksey.
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Scott
---------------------------------------------------------------
70 velle' on custom chassis w/custom RideTech coilovers, RED sleeved 434” with Mamo 265’s, F-body Magnum, 12 bolt 3:73, wilwood 6/4's, bla, bla, bla...build. thread https://lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=39631
New 434” engine build here https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...ved-block.html

Thanks Dad!!

My Chevelle is old school... It has a belt driven power steering pump.
They're 17's, but I keep em clean!
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  #80  
Old 08-30-2013, 01:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Che70velle View Post
Here's a pic of the steering box clearance. I basically set mine back as far as possible during mockup. Of course I had my headers installed, and I put the steering box on, to make sure all my stuff was covered. Having your oil pan on will be mandatory to ensure your golden on fitment. I'm using the Holley pan. It's about 1/4" off the top of the crossmember, and I also have a ton of clearance on the sump of the pan to the crossmember. I researched this a lot. Some people reported that they had to raise the engine, in order to get tie rod to pan clearance. My engine is as low in the car, and as far back in the car as possible with a stock firewall, and I have no problems anywhere.

Now I have to go update my build thread with new pics. I finally got my body on my chassis!
Scott,

I was looking at your build thread and saw that you had the stock frame stands bolted on backwards, then I realized you were making your own mounts. While having your engine that far back has it's advantages, you will run into problems if you ever want to remove the transmission without removing the engine. The engine needs to tilt down quite a ways to remove a trans, and with the head being only 1/2" away from the firewall, there won't be any room for the engine to tilt down in the rear.

Heep,

Cool build. I've had my GTO since 1985, so I can relate to long term projects! I like your idea of using the Camaro engine mounts and making custom frame stands. My engine is mounted using stock Chevelle frame stands with poly mounts and adapter plates. I think I am getting a lot of vibration from the engine through the poly mounts.

Andrew
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