BTW -- That timing figure reminds me of a Mopar.... the old 440's used to LOVE timing! OMG it always scared me to death but they loved it.
If you read a story about drag racing the early hemi's --- it wasn't until big daddy discovered putting like 70*'s into 'em that he could finally make 'em run!
Thanks for the props, I'm really stoked about the outcome.
Thanks DG, good luck with winning that $20 if your is able to run on pump.
See below grasshopper and follow the conservative path to engine testing.
Save me a lot of typing there GW.
The gas was some leaded 110 sold at the local MN race shop.
The old style combustion chamber in these heads requires a lot of timing and 11 to 1 with iron heads is pushing it. The DCR looked a little higher than I'd be excited about running on 91 during tuning.
Max power came with 40 deg of timing. My distributor is locked out and wired to a digital 6 MSD on the dyno. I have a 6AL II that allows you to program in your timing curve that I will run in the car. For street use I'll program a fairly lazy advance curve all in at 3k and retarded 2 deg to 6500 or maybe redline. If vp 100 is available on a track day I'll run it with the distributor locked out to the digital 6 box with no curve or I'll flash in an aggressive curve to 40.
Actual road manners and on track performance isn't alwyas dialed in after a dyno session. I believe it is just getting you in the ballpark and ensuring nothing is going sour in a controlled environment.
AF meters are a good indicator of possible danger but tuning to a number on those sensors isn't the way to go. Tune the motor on the dyno for power. If it is unhappy with the small changes you make the power output will start showing you are headed to trouble before you hurt something.
I have an LM1 that I will use to do some final road tuning on the jetting.
I personally think at my compression level the 110 hurt the hp figures some (some as in very little but no gain). + I need to give DG every chance to give you bowtie guys a win
I don't think running it on 91 on the dyno would have led me to different jet sizes. I think one of the rags even did a dyno shootout with gas to prove that fact a few years back.
I'm the rookie in the group of three of us at the dyno, one guy owns the dyno and the other guy is a long time racer, builder and NHRA record holder. Both of them have done hundreds of pulls. They liked the plan and so did I. So that is the plan we went with.
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If it ain't buckin, chirpin & makin all kinds of bad noises, then I ain't happy
Accelerating is optional...........stopping is mandatory. Your car WILL stop one way or another.
I used to be one of those idiots... quite awhile ago.
Every time we've been to a road course we thru a mix of at least half 100 octane. The one time we did not (really just forgot and didn't drive by our usual gas station on the 5 where we'd get it) the motor blew up.
Good plan Robski.
My experience tells me that boosted applications have a much greater benefit and opportunity for increased power via octane boost than an NA motor.
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2004 NASA AIX Mustang LS2 #14
1964 Lincoln Continental
2014 4 tap Keezer
Since this is a pro touring site. How about between 3500 and 7000 or a specific rpm value over peak hp down say 3000-3500 rpm. 2500 rpm is peaky for autocross, speed stop, and street.
Brian Hobaugh SCCA National Tour June 2014
First Hemi 'Cuda Convertible Ever Built
Short clips: Goodguys Pleasanton autocross and pit videos
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