427ci LS2 sleeved, dry sump oil pump, engine build & install, 69 Camaro

[71RS/SS396]

I have a completely different clutch but this may be a solution
http://bowlertransmissions.com/p/440...ing-adjustable. I think if you start using spacers between the bell housing you may have pilot bearing issues.

[Sieg]

Dale,

Here's a couple hints on the stack issue:

https://lateral-g.net/forums/show...&postcount=212

https://lateral-g.net/forums/show...&postcount=216

[chr2002ca]

If you pull the TO bearing off, does the transmission install properly into the pilot bearing? I'm going with the DYAD clutch and I'm pretty sure the deck height for that clutch(crank to fingers) is about 3", so if you're ZR-1 clutch is about 4", I can see where you'd have that 7/8" clearance difference. It does appear in the links Sieg provided that that there is a bellhousing/trans spacer for your situation, but that pushes your transmission further back and could cause other fitment issues. Just more fun with putting these darn things together. Can't wait to try to put mine in soon.

[Sieg]

I'm not sure if Mark built that spacer for Mayhem or how they handled the pilot bearing/input shaft depth issue. My guess is he'd help if asked.

[DaleTx]

This is getting a little confusing... but it looks like there is a solution to make the T56 Magnum transmission and ZR1 Twin Disc clutch fit properly using the GM hydraulic throwout bearing (pn:24237569) and the GM pilot bearing (pn:12557583).

Here is a picture of the set up on the bell housing with the Muncie transmission. This set up was installed in the car and worked perfectly. This is a picture of the relationship between the end of the input shaft on the transmission and the flange on the bell housing. The dimension is 3/16”… this is what worked. At this dimension the input shaft on the transmission slipped into the pilot bearing about 3/4".




Here is a picture of the new set up with the Quicktime LS bell housing and the T56 Magnum transmission. The dimension from the end of the input shaft on the transmission to the flange on the bell housing is ~ 1”. If I use the 0.850” thick spacer from D&D performance that Mark Stielow on Mayhem then everything works… the distance from the flange on the bell to the end of the transmission input shaft goes to ~ 3/16”. The input shaft from the T56 Magnum will be the correct length to fit into the pilot bearing, and the GM hydraulic throwout bearing will have exactly the right clearance in relation to the tip of the fingers on the ZR1 twin disc clutch.



Each combination of parts always requires a little head scratching… but it looks like this solution will work.

Chris, if your clutch is about 3" thick then you can use the same parts minus the 0.850" spacer, as long as there is no difference in the position of the pilot bearing between the Gen I and Gen IV engines.


Thanks Tim & Scott

[chr2002ca]

That is weird. Your LS bellhousing(RM-8020?) is supposed to have the same depth as mine(RM-6023) for my BBC, which would be 5.555 inches. However, I just went out into the garage and measured the depth on mine and it's exactly 6.0 inches. So I'd like to send a big shot out to Quicktime for providing incorrect specs on their bellhousing. As a result of this extra .445 inches of depth, the input shaft on mine only sticks out about 5/8" past the bellhousing, and it would only be about 1/4" when I add the engine plate. So that should be okay for me when I mate it to the engine and pilot bearing. If it's too long, I can file down the shaft slightly. However, for you, it seems like you'll need that spacer in between your transmission and bellhousing. Hope it's not too pricey and is readily available. If the shaft doesn't quite reach the pilot bearing, I believe there are 'extended' bearings.

[DaleTx]

Originally Posted by chr2002ca

That is weird. Your LS bellhousing(RM-8020?) is supposed to have the same depth as mine(RM-6023) for my BBC, which would be 5.555 inches. However, I just went out into the garage and measured the depth on mine and it's exactly 6.0 inches. So I'd like to send a big shot out to Quicktime for providing incorrect specs on their bellhousing. As a result of this extra .445 inches of depth, the input shaft on mine only sticks out about 5/8" past the bellhousing, and it would only be about 1/4" when I add the engine plate. So that should be okay for me when I mate it to the engine and pilot bearing. If it's too long, I can file down the shaft slightly. However, for you, it seems like you'll need that spacer in between your transmission and bellhousing. Hope it's not too pricey and is readily available. If the shaft doesn't quite reach the pilot bearing, I believe there are 'extended' bearings.

I do have the Quicktime RM-8020 bellhousing and it measures 5.55”.

If I can get the 0.850” spacer from D&D Performance then everything will fit together. The input shaft on the T56 will slip into the pilot bearing about ¾”. Hopefully I can get one…. I’ll find out tomorrow. I think I'll have to shift my engine forward about 1" now. Hopefully your install goes smoother.

After that first drive with all the new stuff all the problems are forgotten... Good luck getting all your parts to fit together

[DaleTx]

Today is a good day

It's Friday... I have the next two days off... and the last of the parts I need to continue the T56 install showed up on the door step

Today I received the billet aluminum spacer that goes in between the T56 Magnum and the Quick Time bell housing. This spacer was needed to allow for the extra thickness of the ZR-1 Twin disc clutch. The spacer has dowel pins and fit up perfectly to the QT bell and the T56 Mag trans. The spacer is 0.89" thick.

I checked all the dimensions with the spacer installed, and the play between the clutch forks and the hydraulic throwout bearing is perfect... and the input shaft on the transmission will slide into the pilot bearing on the crank about 3/4".




The dowels pins align the spacer to the bell housing. The dowel pins on the transmission align with holes on the other side of the spacer. The spacer is designed to keep all of the parts in alignment.










Here is a shot of the GM ZR-1 hydraulic throwout bearing with a remote bleeder (4ft long) attached. The guy that did all my plumbing for the dry sump pump made up the remote bleeder from parts.




Earlier in the week I received the kit to convert from the mechanical Z-Bar clutch set up to the Hydraulic clutch.





The remaining issues to deal with will be the tunnel mods and cross member mods. The spacer will push the trans back an inch so I'm pretty sure the crossmember won't fit.

[Sieg]

Looks like you're on a roll Dale!

[DaleTx]

Originally Posted by Sieg

Looks like you're on a roll Dale!

Thanks Sieg.... how is the engine tune coming along?