LS Swap headers

[67Rally]

Originally Posted by OBeer-WAN-Kenobi

Glad you found something that fit so nice for you!

Can you do me a favor and see if you can get an accurate measurement to a fixed point for me?

Maybe from the front left bolt on the steering box to a point on the engine; like a header bolt or something? I'd like to see where my engine is sitting in relation to yours.

Really, this is what all of us need from the manufacturers. Instead of telling us that this will fit with such and such mounts (which isn't always guaranteed) they should have measurements of where the engine should be sitting (for their headers) that we can use to compare. The best measurements would probably be off of the subframe or at least something bolted to it.

I'm still waiting on some parts to be powder coated before I put the subframe I re-manufactured back under my car but after that I should be needing to order headers really quick.

I'll try to find a good reference point tomorrow and post back with some measurements.

I installed the driver's side header by removing the engine frame mount bolt and jacking the engine up on that side. When I went to lower the engine after the first attempt, the #5 header was just about to hit the pitman arm before the engine was all the way down. I moved the engine back about an 1" and then #3 was within 1/32" of the PS box. I found a happy medium somewhere in between (I know I said about 3/4", but I didn't actually measure).

The key for me was having an adjustable set of adapter plates (Dingo sliders), along with an adjustable trans x-member.

[OBeer-WAN-Kenobi]

Thanks for the info guys, I appreciate it.

Hopefully in a week or two I'll be putting my engine in my subframe again and seeing where the measurements are. I have to...ehem..."adjust" the frame a bit for the low mount alternator as well so it's probably important that I get a set of headers fairly quickly after the initial check so I can get that going.

Worst-case, I suppose I can just get headers and machine some new mount plates to make the placement work for the headers instead of trying to get headers to work for my mounting location. After all, the plates are just pieces of flat stock with 3 counter-sunk through holes and 3 tapped holes in them anyway. Not like they are difficult to make. I'd just rather I use "standard" modified components, if that makes sense....LOL

[67Rally]

Here's the best I can do. It's a little tight in places, and it seems there's always a hose or a wire loom in the way. Lot's of pics, hopefully this helps someone...

Distance from front of stock LQ9 timing chain cover to rear edge of front subframe crossmember (roughly 6 5/8"):




Distance from flat bottom surface rear crossmember of front subframe (confused?) to the machined engine block surface where oil pan bolts up (roughly 6"):


This is where I took the above measurement from:





Distance from firewall to rear edge of driver's side cylinder head (2 1/16"):




Top view looking down, distance from firewall to rear edge of valley cover plate on passenger side (3 5/16"):




Distance from front flat surface of Holley LS Retrofit Oil Pan 302-1 to rear edge of front subframe crossmember (6 3/4"):


This is where I took the above measurement from:

[johnzSS]

^ Thanks for these detailed pics!

[SSE0417]

I think I have read so much that I'm getting confused with all the headers, I was thinking of going with Hooker headers on my 67 Camaro or maybe even speedtech, Does anybody have any thoughts of those two, Pros or cons of the two? There is about $150 or so differant in price. One is stainless and one is ceramic coated, I dont know what the best is there. I would think Ceramic would be cooler but not sure. Im ready to order some but still at a lose.

[toddoky]

Originally Posted by SSE0417

I think I have read so much that I'm getting confused with all the headers, I was thinking of going with Hooker headers on my 67 Camaro or maybe even speedtech, Does anybody have any thoughts of those two, Pros or cons of the two? There is about $150 or so differant in price. One is stainless and one is ceramic coated, I dont know what the best is there. I would think Ceramic would be cooler but not sure. Im ready to order some but still at a lose.

Which Hooker headers are you referring to, the new ones or the ones that have been on the market for the past 5 years? If you are referring to the new Hooker 1st-gen parts released this past December, then you have the choice of mid-length or long-tube headers constructed in mild steel or 304ss. The new Hooker headers are also part of a complete swap system that includes engine mounts, transmission crossmembers, exhaust systems and an oil pan that were all designed at the same time to optimize the fitment in your car and the compatibility of all the components.

[SSE0417]

I assume the new hooker headers, I'm not sure( do they carry the same part number? I have the oil pan and motor mounts now. What would be preferred, 304ss or just mild steel ceramic coated? They both look good, what's the advantage of one over the other?

[toddoky]

Originally Posted by SSE0417

I assume the new hooker headers, I'm not sure( do they carry the same part number? I have the oil pan and motor mounts now.

If you are using the 2288HKR/2289HKR headers, 302-1 Holley oil pan and flat-style LS swap plates then you have the older design Hooker/Holley parts and will be subjected to the same trade-offs as all the other LS swap parts on the market that were designed around the same time. All the new Hooker parts (engine mounts, transmission crossmembers, headers and exhaust systems)and the new Holley 302-2 oil pan were designed together at the same time go give you benefits you cannot get with the mixed parts from multiple manufacturers approach.

[TXsilverado]

Old thread, but any chance of getting a measurement of the distancr between collectors (center to center)

[TXsilverado]

And how are they holding up? Ill be removingmy arh headers that fit lake crap on tuesday and need a replacement that fits. The speedtech 2" is what i want but i cant swallow the price. The 2" is 500 more than a 1 3/4.