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  #71  
Old 09-01-2006, 09:22 PM
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I think "just the hub" isn't part of the entire hub assembly. I believe that the entire hub assembly bolts to the spindle, but I could be totally off on this?
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  #72  
Old 09-01-2006, 10:01 PM
Teetoe_Jones Teetoe_Jones is offline
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We use a stud on the bottom of our flange, which requires our fixture for drilling,, and when these are not installed on the car, it is impossible to torque the bolts correctly.
Bottom line is we will sell AFX spindles without hubs, but we will not ship them until we install your supplied hubs. We rarely get a request for this as most people who think they can save a few $$ find out that 1 hub typically cost 3/4 of what our spindles do.
The other reason is liability. I know we install them correctly, so I cannot be held responsible for a failure due to improper install. Pricing on the bare AFX spindle is $445 for a pair.


Tyler
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  #73  
Old 09-01-2006, 10:02 PM
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David Pozzi David Pozzi is offline
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Track instructors watch for overdriving and if the student doesn't show some self-control he will be talked to and eventually booted off the track before he hurts himself or someone else.

Learning the proper racing line is all-important. You can't begin to get a good lap time until you know exactly where you need to place the car in every turn and straight, and can do it with consistently.

Another thing you will learn is having a car on your butt will mess up your driving. You are allready 100% focused on driving your car, then a fast vette get's on your tail and you will start driving even harder to shake him or at least show him you are not so slow. THAT'S when you are most likely to drop a wheel off the track or make some other mistake. I tend to hurry my shifts when I'm in that situation and can sometimes miss a shift.
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  #74  
Old 09-01-2006, 10:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David Pozzi


Another thing you will learn is having a car on your butt will mess up your driving. You are allready 100% focused on driving your car, then a fast vette get's on your tail and you will start driving even harder to shake him or at least show him you are not so slow. THAT'S when you are most likely to drop a wheel off the track or make some other mistake. I tend to hurry my shifts when I'm in that situation and can sometimes miss a shift.
David
This is very true, I had a someone pass my on the long straight at T-hill. Once we got into turn 1 I could tell he was overdoing it. He had to keep up the speed because he thought he was faster than I was(possibly was?) he didn't want to pass me and then have me on his ass. We went into turn 2 and he went really deep. Well 2/3's of the way into turn 2(high speed long decreasing radius turn) he literally lost confidence in the turn, ran wide, and went right off the track at prob 80-90mph. He went into the turn faster than he was comfortable with because he felt pressured to keep up the speed. THat was his mistake, I could of made a mistake by trying to speed up to not let him pass me, then I would of been the one to probably go off. But on a bike its cool because you can pass people IN the turn all day long, its harder to do in a car, and some track organizers don't allow it.
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  #75  
Old 09-02-2006, 11:24 AM
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Good story.
You eventually learn where the line is, then when you pass someone approaching a turn for the first time, you wind up driving deep into the turn and your approach is now off-line because the car you are passing is on your "usual" line. It's hard to judge your speed entering this way and you can run off on corner exit. The effects of nearby cars on your concentration need to be considered in advance since they are pretty significant. Especially when you are new at it. I spent half a race in June at Sears Pt with a faster car behind me. I was just a bit slower in the turns but had more power than he did. If he could have gotten a fender up beside me, I would have let him go ahead but he couldn't do it, so I just watched him carefully in my mirrors. It's hard to focus on driving well when that happens.

Here's some open track car prep discussion from pro-touring.com. http://www.pro-touring.com/forum/showthread.php?t=8701
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Last edited by David Pozzi; 09-02-2006 at 11:26 AM.
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  #76  
Old 09-03-2006, 09:25 AM
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Its gonna at least take you half the day just to learn to look through the turn properly. Always keep your eyes and head looking at the end of the turn, never in front of you. If you look in front of you on a high speed turn, chances are you will run straight off the road. This is a huge factor when you first start out, not only will you stay on track looking THROUGH the turn but it won't seem as fast.

Also when in traffic, dont fixate on cars in front of you. In genearl humans tend go where they look, so if you are looking at the car in front of you, instead of through/end of the turn, you will go whey they go. If they run off the the track, so will you. If they run a ****ty line, so will you. When in traffic and looking to pass or something, look at the open space not the car.
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  #77  
Old 09-03-2006, 12:09 PM
race-rodz race-rodz is offline
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just gonna throw out my worthless opinion........ with all the $$$ tied up in your car, and having no seat time at a real racetrack.... i think that it would be a great idea to look into a few driving schools. while a 250hp mustang with sticky tires and good set-up might not sound like "fun" compared to your car.... you will be given a chance to learn the basics, from there you will know what to expect out of your own car....and what you need to do with your car in order to make it "work".

its good that you are here askin for opinions, and its good to see that your mentality has changed for the better somewhat in the last 8 pages, but i think you should post a question like this over at corner-carvers...... and let the education begin.
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  #78  
Old 09-03-2006, 01:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by race-rodz
just gonna throw out my worthless opinion........ with all the $$$ tied up in your car, and having no seat time at a real racetrack.... i think that it would be a great idea to look into a few driving schools. while a 250hp mustang with sticky tires and good set-up might not sound like "fun" compared to your car.... you will be given a chance to learn the basics, from there you will know what to expect out of your own car....and what you need to do with your car in order to make it "work".

its good that you are here askin for opinions, and its good to see that your mentality has changed for the better somewhat in the last 8 pages, but i think you should post a question like this over at corner-carvers...... and let the education begin.
In that same vein I suggest you take your car to an auto-x or two first.
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  #79  
Old 09-03-2006, 02:37 PM
Blown353 Blown353 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by race-rodz
i think you should post a question like this over at corner-carvers...... and let the education begin.
Boy wouldn't that be a hoot. I'm playing that one out in my head.
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  #80  
Old 09-03-2006, 05:06 PM
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Hey, my post asked about good brakes going 150 mph +..... CORRECT! What is so bad about that question????????????? Show me a car on here that would not go 150 mph on R/A. That is my local track, and I need brakes thet will not fail or fade going those speeds. Everyone on here has HUGE brakes, and that is why I asked you guys!
I While I appreciate the pointers, for some reason some feel the need to tell me about everything else I will need or should'nt. I am a good driver, I like to go fast and push the limits, that's why I will be going to the track, to be able to go farther and get better. Some of you keep talking like I am going to go to the track and drive like some idiot, Or way to fast, that is pretty insulting! Just like everyone else, I am going to the track, get advise, and start taking laps untill I get better and faster like everyone else.
Some of you kept on topic offering good advice and pointers, especially in the brake and suspension dept. Thanks!
I don't feel at this point I need to go to the track to see what the car needs. I have driven the car for 13 years and Pretty much no the weak points. Besides, with the Drag radials and the small front disc brakes, and pushing front end, I would have a few problems.


Right now, unless someone steps up with a better or different alternative, I am going with the AFX tall spindles, C5 calipers, and maybe the new Z06 rotors, I am going to buy a rotor to see if it will work, looks like it will. I just need to calculate an overall dimension from centerline to see if the calipers will not hit the rim of my wheel with the 14" rotors. I parked between a c5 and a c6 zo6 yesterday and it looks promising! A little more leverage will help, plus the new rotors look beefier then the c5 setup.
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Last edited by nitrorocket; 09-03-2006 at 05:11 PM.
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