Lateral-g project car on a budget. - Page 8 - Lateral-g Forums

race-rodz · #71 09-14-2006, 10:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 3kidsnotime

Only 24 hours in this almost 1000 hits in 24 hours and a member votes no!!! In the last hour, is it petty is it truth a reason if so WTF is it??? Have some balls say why!!!! Do not just vote speak your peace why no???? This project is about the members and their ideas and to voice an opinion on a build and have a chance to show first timers what to do...........Mr NO Speak and be proud of your mind set......Mr No do you own a Prius?????? I cant make it electric.........................

no...i dont drive a prius, while i do like the whole idea of a group influenced budget build, the major flaw i see with the whole deal is the fact you have 2500 different opinions making all of the important choices. while this somewhat works for our so called government, on an internet forum it is a different deal.

while the "polls" will ultimatley make the decisions, people will get butt-hurt because they dont agree with the group, this will turn into pissing and moaning, which will cause more pissing and moaning, and that gets old....really old. i dont visit this forum to listen to people rant and rave, i visit it for inspiration and motivation on my own projects....not to read 9+ pages of retards argueing over stupid petty BS, in a thread that started out as an innocent question or concern.

i have been visiting this site for a while, and my opinion clashes with lots of others, usually i dont say anything(unless i feel strongly about the issue) that i know will instigate a pissing match, simply because it just doesnt matter enough for me to waste my time trying to "one-up" somebody elses opinion. the above quote is a prime example, yes i voted "no", and didnt give a reason.....because it isnt important enough to express my negative concern. however, because you felt it was important enough to ask for a reason for the "no" vote, i have given it. now its time to move on, and get your project underway.....if you feel the need to repond, DON'T do it in the thread....send me a PM if you "really" feel the need to say something.

novanutcase · #72 09-14-2006, 11:19 PM

I say you use a '66 Nova for the base car.......OH!!! HEY!!! Wadda ya know?!!! I just happen to know someone that has just the car!!!!!! MEEEEEEEE!!!!

3kidsnotime · #73 09-15-2006, 06:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by streetfytr68

It's a great idea. Just remember that democracy can be a double edged sword. "Too many cooks spoil the broth...." and all that. At a point, it will be important to respect the wishes and preferences of the person who is actually spending all the money and doing all the work. Let him have the final say on parts that are discussed.

People please remember this, This is to be a fun project we can all Take a little part on and voice out opinion on, The project car has been chosen, we will stick with it. The car chosen it is to show a solid baseline, that is also affordable and still available out there, This is also a step by step project to aid with installing parts as well as engine mods and body and paint. The engine mods are going to be kept at a minimal for your every day guy after the budget car is completed, We might go to a second phase with big power.

3kidsnotime · #74 09-15-2006, 06:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Musclerodz

I would highly suggest going with Touring Classics AFX kit instead of Matt's(nothing against Matt's). Much better geometry than the "B" spindle and you get OEM C5 brakes $775 for the front, $699 for 12" rear set up. Worth the extra $175.

Front suspension seems to be partly broke down already. Of the $800, purchase SC&C Stage 1 kit upper arms which are designed to go with the AFX spindle and is $479, that leaves $320 for suspension rebuild parts. You could make up alot of the $175 here.

How nice is the interior now? Any pics?

$3000 for drivetrain could be hard to hold to unless the current drivetrain is solid and you are only doing maintenance with upgrades.

Looks like a decent start so far.

Mike

The drive train very solid we already have the 12 bolt rear so the 3k is to show new comers what they can do with what they have, If this is a hit the car after the budget car is built. It will see big power later. Also the budget thats what it is. Its a Budget As far as Matts place That is by far the best bolt on 4 wheel disk kit with good spindles, for your everday guy and price. We are doing this to show your every day guy what he can buy and do and build, and as we all know projects go over so it has overages figured in. Thanks for all the input from everyone Jeff

nitrorocket · #75 09-15-2006, 07:21 AM

If people don't want the old school parts and dated performance stuff, staying with the stock motor would be a bad move. Ls1 swap makes the most sense. For $3k, you can do an LS1 swap complete. At least the Ls1 could handle track days time and time again without getting hurt. Plus it will shave a ton of unwanted weight off the nose of the car. That will help handling A lot!

3kidsnotime · #76 09-15-2006, 08:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nitrorocket

If people don't want the old school parts and dated performance stuff, staying with the stock motor would be a bad move. Ls1 swap makes the most sense. For $3k, you can do an LS1 swap complete. At least the Ls1 could handle track days time and time again without getting hurt. Plus it will shave a ton of unwanted weight off the nose of the car. That will help handling A lot!

You are correct. The price im not sure on, depending on what I can find locally, Im going to hold the engine and trans for last on the project as far as build, And depending on how much we spent the rest will be for engine and trans.

nitrorocket · #77 09-15-2006, 10:24 AM

For quite a while I was buying and re-selling LS1 motors.

I can see if my connection is still intact. Generally I can get a 2000+ ls1 motor from pcm to pan for about $2000 turn key.

This all depends on what he has at the time though. For the trans. use the stock trans for now. It will get the job done untill some type of overdrive is decided on.

I might also recomment scoping out a totaled F-Body. They can be had for less then $4000 and include tons of parts including brakes and motor/trans! That could save some HUGE dollars from a little "smart" shopping!

3kidsnotime · #78 09-15-2006, 01:43 PM

Keep me posted on what you find all ideas are always welcome and wanted

Bandit · #79 09-15-2006, 03:44 PM

Here's a formula I suggested to a new member over at pro-touring.com who was wondering what to start with. I relied heavily on personal experience for this. And I agree that $10K is a VERY tight budget, but of course anything's possible with some hook-ups.

"Why not get ahold of a 2nd-gen Camaro, or Firebird/Trans am?
I have 2 Trans ams, a '79 and an '80, and owned an '80 Camaro previously.

There are several great things about these cars as a base project car: they are still fairly cheap to get ahold of (for now!), they have decent suspensions, brakes, and aerodynamics from the factory, and parts are cheap and plentiful.

You are right, I think, about Chevy being a smart choice for the powertrain, I am amazed at the plethora of cheap and potent crate motors out there. You could go with a Chevy powertrain in either the camaro or firebird.

A good formula would be as follows:
Solid 70-81 f-body (assuming engine is stock or garbage like most out there, and you will toss it) $3000
Chevy crate 350/383 stroker/400hp $3000
Budget TH350 tranny $1000
(upgrade to OD trans for $1000-1500 more)
Hotchkis/GW suspension/new shocks $1500

Assuming you do the work yourself, this puts you in the $8K range, and you still have money left over for a set of killer wheels and tires!! Of course this is an optimistic estimate, and would require some research and luck to accomplish. More likely, you will have at least 15K invested for a good all-around streeter, once you factor in all the little stuff you forgot about.

My 2 cents: Don't buy anything with any significant amount of rust or frame/subframe damage.
Don't have an engine shop rebuild your motor if you go with a chevy 350-- go straight for a crate. Unless you have the inside scoop on a great machine shop with a perfect reputation, it's just not worth it IMHO."

Paul

Musclerodz · #80 09-15-2006, 09:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 3kidsnotime

The drive train very solid we already have the 12 bolt rear so the 3k is to show new comers what they can do with what they have, If this is a hit the car after the budget car is built. It will see big power later. Also the budget thats what it is. Its a Budget As far as Matts place That is by far the best bolt on 4 wheel disk kit with good spindles, for your everday guy and price. We are doing this to show your every day guy what he can buy and do and build, and as we all know projects go over so it has overages figured in. Thanks for all the input from everyone Jeff

If Matt is a buddy of yours and want to use him, great. But, the package being considered offers no improvements to suspension geometry other than adding rear disc brakes. Touring Classics AFX kit includes the NEW AFX spindle developed by American Touring Specialties that uses a C5 Corvette bearing hub, C5 Corvette brakes front and rear, and when coupled with SC&C SPC adjustable upper arms, corrects many geometry issues associated with "A" body platforms. This kit can be purchased by your everyday guy right from Touring Classics and the spindles and arms have been EXTENSIVELY discussed on this site and others with overwhelming postive reponses. As Race Rodz had clarified why he voted the way he did, it seems you already have your mind made up on certain products by your response to my post which begs to ask why the poll? While this is a great idea on paper, I think Race-rodz, Steevo, and a couple others have the right frame of mind. I think I will sign off this thread and let it run its coarse. if you fell you need to PM me regarding this, please do so, I will be happy to talk further.

Mike