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  #831  
Old 12-29-2014, 11:30 AM
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Michael, As promised I was able to get the alum. center support fabbed and welded for you. I Don't have any 3/8 x 5.5" grade 8 bolt's in stock.I will pick up some bolts when I go to town to ship this out to you N/C. Sorry for the inconvenience.
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  #832  
Old 12-29-2014, 11:50 AM
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Cool Thanks Scott!

Quote:
Originally Posted by coolwelder62 View Post
Michael, As promised I was able to get the alum. center support fabbed and welded for you. I Don't have any 3/8 x 5.5" grade 8 bolt's in stock.I will pick up some bolts when I go to town to ship this out to you N/C. Sorry for the inconvenience.
Scott ... that is gorgeous!!! No problem here, my bad by not getting a FOMOCO rack, but your solution is great. I ordered the offset bushings already, hopefully that'll take care of this part.

Thank you,

Michael
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  #833  
Old 12-30-2014, 11:04 AM
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Michael,I thought I would show the different Rack & Pinion steering shaft angles. See how close the shaft from the jegs rack is very close to the top of the motor mount. And how much clearance there is on john's flaming river rack. The shaft angle is steeper on your rack.
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  #834  
Old 12-30-2014, 11:51 AM
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Scott ... I see the difference. Wouldn't it be nice if you could clock the rack to suite your needs?

Changing the angle of the dangle

Thanks Scott
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  #835  
Old 12-30-2014, 11:55 AM
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Michael, if I were you I'd cut off the 5/8 threaded rack mounting bungs that I welded on and build some mustang II style rack mount's you could keep this manual rack.I will find a photo and post up. Welders series co. builds some.These are $8.00 dollars each and will fix your problems.http://www.welderseries.com/blog/?s=must+II+rack+mount

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  #836  
Old 12-30-2014, 12:00 PM
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The above bracket from welders series will allow you too keep your rack and get the ujoint clearance you need all for $16.00 plus shipping.Cheaper than the the cost of shipping your rack back too jegs.
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  #837  
Old 12-30-2014, 12:36 PM
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Scott ... thanks for the link, that is outstanding idea there, coming soon to me
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  #838  
Old 01-06-2015, 04:24 PM
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Cool Update 1/6

Good day in the garage, suppose to get up to 50 so that's good enough for me, I wanted to get the drivers side suspension done before the temps drop! I received the bracket the Scott made for the rack mount, and received the offset bushings.

I can't use the bushings yet my rack mount does not have a metal sleeve .... which the new bushings don't' come with, maybe order some! Mocked up it didn't provide enough clearance so I put it back together and fitted the bracket to the mounts ... I may need to shim w some nylon washers to bring it out flush with the lower arm bolts.

Anyway ... got the drivers side pad flushed with the steering arm mount, drilled the knuckle mount to 12mm and mounted the steering arm and re assembled the unit .... done for now, just need to do the same for the other side and get some alignment base numbers for mockup of wheel and such.

Ground down the lower pad for the arm to sit flush and square!


Forward steering arm hole needed to be 12mm for the through bolt ... check!


Checking geometry for the swar bar through travel!


Cut off the old mounts and put on the new version that Scott made ... may need to shim the bracket, little bow when tightened!


Now this mess is for tomorrow!!!



I am waiting on the rack mount from Welders Series .... tomorrow? Now that I have some time on my hands (my semester is over the 12th) I plan as much done .... weather permitting of course

Thanks for looking .... Scott thanks for the bracket!!
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  #839  
Old 01-06-2015, 06:43 PM
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Michael,The casting bump on the kuckle needs to be milled or ground down so lower steering arm bolt hole is the same thickness as the upper bolt hole.You can drill the lower hole with a 1/2" drill bit. Use a 12mm or 1/2" bolt & nylock nut.
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  #840  
Old 01-06-2015, 06:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coolwelder62 View Post
Michael,The casting bump on the kuckle needs to be milled or ground down so lower steering arm bolt hole is the same thickness as the upper bolt hole.You can drill the lower hole with a 1/2" drill bit. Use a 12mm or 1/2" bolt & nylock nut.
Scott .... all that is already done, that's why the drivers side is put together, I'll work on the passenger side tomorrow

Thanks again!

Michael
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