1970 GTO V3

[andrewb70]

My friend Blake designed and 3D priced a cover the the boost solenoids.



He included a cut-out on the side so that I can mount a Deutsch 4 connector bulkhead fitting, instead of the two connectors that were on the solenoids before.



Both Vic and I liked the raw 3D printed look of the sides, but the top was not as pretty. So Vic applied some vinyl to the top.



The mounting plate itself is pretty thin, so in order to tap a hole for the hold down bolt, I drilled a small hole and used a punch to gradually enlarge the hole. This folds the soft aluminum out and gives more material to tap, making it as good as a captive nut.



I also made the hose that gos from the fill tank to the top of the heat exchanger.



Hear are the two heat exchanger lines where they slip between the core support and the radiator.



The hose from the bottom of the heat exchanger loops towards the fender, then comes over the fan, and then down into the top of the pump.



I also took the turbo off so that I could rattle can the turbo support bracket.



Andrew

[camcojb]

Nice work.

[andrewb70]

Today was another plumbing day. This time it was time to plumb the transmission cooler. Here is a little tip when working with push-lock style hose.

Add a union to the fitting and snug it down. This does two things:

1. If using a 45 or 90 degree fitting it keeps the nipple from trying to move around.



2. When putting the fitting in the vise to hold it, it keeps the the nut from crushing and becoming out of round.



This is the rear fitting on the transmission. The picture actually makes it look like there is a lot of clearance, but in reality it is very tight.



I managed to get the hose end started, but I will probably have to get creative with getting it tight. I think a Crow's foot should get it done.



The front port wasn't too bad. I used a 45 degree fitting on this hose. Removing the trans dipstick made access easier.



The hoses make a gently sweep over the bell housing area of the transmission, over to the driver's side, where they slip into a slot in the frame. This slot is where the factory hard lines were routed through the frame and out the front crossmember, by the steering box.



I also experimented with some covering material for the intercooler plumbing. This is a fabric heat shrink material.



The ends are finished with heat shrink. This is a close-up to show the pattern and texture.



Andrew

[andrewb70]

This is Earl's Ultra Pro hose and it is by far the nicest hose I have ever worked with. It is super flexible, light weight, and looks fantastic. Sadly, for some reason, Earl's no longer sells this hose in sizes smaller than AN-10. I had a 6 foot section of AN-6 hose that I had purchased a while back.



So I decided to use it to make some of the needed hoses under the hood. This is the fuel rail crossover that links the two rails together in the front.



The original plan was to have the Mighty Mouse catch can mounted to the master cylinder mount. However, with the Bosch iBooster in place, that was no longer an option. I got on the MM website and saw they had a basic mount that was designed to bolt to the head.



Mounting it to the front of the heads was not an option. The passenger side has the turbo and the driver's side has the alternator. I could have modified this mount to work on the driver's side front, but instead, I chose to flip it around and mount it to the back of the driver's head.



It fit perfectly in the back.



It places it approximately in the same location as the MC mount. There is plenty of clearance all around the can and the mount.



I got this 150 degree fitting and some Earl's Ultra Pro hose in AN-10.



The hose then gently bonds to the catch can.



And in the front, it passes under the plate that holds the boost solenoids.



Lastly, this arrived.....



This is the Hardwire Electronics 25 channel PDM.



I saw these guys at the PRI show and was very intrigued by the product. This has way more channels than I need for the moment, but I may eventually have it handling the power distribution for the whole car. For now, the original harness will take care of all the interior and exterior lighting and the power windows. The Hardwire PDM will be use for the EFI, AC, and any other system under the dash.

The Hardwire PDM also supports the Holley 3rd Party CAN protocol (AKA the Racepak protocol), so I will be able to do some neat things. More to come on that much later when I start on the wiring.

Andrew

[Che70velle]

Great job Andrew, as always!

[andrewb70]

The hood 3D scan turned out really well. I had a chance to work with Kris Horton with the tuning on his Chevelle and he has been working on a rendering of my GTO. He will use the hood scan to refine the rendering and also come up with various ideas about how to deal with the hole in the hood.



Next on the list was finding a suitable location for the Hardwire PDM. My under-dash structure is not like a typical A-body because 20 years ago a frame was built to hold the VA AC unit. Part of this fram structure was also a little shelf where the old Holley Commander 950 ECU used to live.



I figured that attaching the PDM under the shelf would be the perfect, central location.



I added some #8 rivnuts to the plate...



With the PDM bolted down in place...



It is slightly below the level of where the old ash tray used to be, but it is much more inconspicuous than what the pictures indicate. It is tucked up under the dash, while still having all of the connectors easily accessible.



More plumbing....I made the short hose that goes from the catch can to the back of the intake manifold.



Lastly, I made a short hose for the power steering pressure side.



Andrew

[CJD Automotive]

Definitely coming along!

Quick question on the Hardwire PDM. I looked it up because it would be a very affordable pdm option for some of my customers. I looked at the pinout, and it shows a single pin for each output? I assume I'm reading that wrong and you wire multiple pins together to achieve the output? That's a DTM connector, and DTM pins are only rated at 7.5 amps.

[andrewb70]

Originally Posted by CJD Automotive

Definitely coming along!

Quick question on the Hardwire PDM. I looked it up because it would be a very affordable pdm option for some of my customers. I looked at the pinout, and it shows a single pin for each output? I assume I'm reading that wrong and you wire multiple pins together to achieve the output? That's a DTM connector, and DTM pins are only rated at 7.5 amps.

The connectors for the inputs and outputs are DT, not DTM.

Each output is rated at 20amps.

Andrew

[CJD Automotive]

Originally Posted by andrewb70

The connectors for the inputs and outputs are DT, not DTM.

Each output is rated at 20amps.

Andrew

Yeah, I saw that was the output, just didn't know if they were using more than one pin of the output connector to achieve that? Motec uses two output pins to provide 20 amps (the extra pin needed isn't counted towards outputs, so 8 - 20 amp outputs uses 16 pins). Just curious, like I said looks like a very affordable option. FYI, DT pins are only rated for 13 amps.

[andrewb70]

Originally Posted by CJD Automotive

Yeah, I saw that was the output, just didn't know if they were using more than one pin of the output connector to achieve that? Motec uses two output pins to provide 20 amps (the extra pin needed isn't counted towards outputs, so 8 - 20 amp outputs uses 16 pins). Just curious, like I said looks like a very affordable option. FYI, DT pins are only rated for 13 amps.

I know you can double up on outputs for higher load devices. I'm not driving a cooling fan or even a fuel pump, so for me it'll work fine. I need to read the documentation more.

Andrew