Budget '69 Camaro Track Car - NO WHINERS!

[Track Junky]

Originally Posted by DFRESH

Dude, your dash pad blew off.

Dude, dash pad is there.....I'm just using the new Invisi-Dash spray.

Originally Posted by Flash68

Very nice! (the driving, not the video)

You look smooth out there... like you've been there before?

Glad the car and you behaved well out there.

Oops. Spoke too soon.... where's that new suit you bought?

Thanks Dave......oh....I guess you hadn't heard of the new Invisi-Suit spray that just came out.

Originally Posted by intocarss

SO DID ALL HIS "SAFETY GEAR"...

WHAT HE SAID!!!!!!!!!!! HEY TRACKY..... DON'T MAKE ME HURT YOU, YOU DUMB ASS!!!!!!!!

I'm guessing your not going to buy my Invisi-spray line

Originally Posted by GregWeld

Gae ---


I'll be running with Nor Cal Shelby October's Fall Classic.... they'll even allow Camaros to run!!

And also Laguna Seca (just a one day event!)

Thanks for the invite Greg and I'm sorry I missed you guys at Sonoma....car was just too ass happy to take there yet.

Car is going to Vince's now for a coil over conversion so unfortunately I'll have to miss those this year but hopefully we can get together next season.

o

[Track Junky]

[intocarss]

Just wear your DAM safety gear!!!! I love those pics!!! ^^^^^^^^^^

[Ron Sutton]

Originally Posted by Track Junky

Well Ron.....I pretty much just took a half inch off the coil springs
Which loaded the front tires more, helping to loosen the car up.

and then added a 1/2" taller ball joint.
And increased camber gain.

Once that work was complete I took it to the alignment shop and backed out static castor and camber. Ths car responded by feeling alot closer to neutral which leads me to think I was running too much castor my previous track day causing the car to jack loose.
Sure could be. What's your scrub radius?

In addition...my outside front tire temp differential went from 4* to 2* which is good.
Good.

The car began to get free at the end of my second session and I'm thinking it was due to front tire wear
Hmmm. Why would front tire wear make the car loose? Do you mean something different than you wrote?

and the RA-1's starting to come in and give me better grip. To counter the free condition I began to lower rear roll center one bolt at a time.
Excellent tuning move for a loose car. Can you lower your rear ride height any?


By the time I got to my 5th session I had dropped three bolt holes
How far apart are your panhard bar holes? What is the range of adjustment you have? What is your lowest height? ... highest height? ... And where did you end up?

and the front grip was not effected which tells me front grip was getting better and so was the rear.
Front grip wasn't affected by the panhard bar moving down. Maybe the track gripped up. The rear panhard bar moving down works the rear tires more. In fact, if you go too far, it will make the car push.

I ran my fastest lap time the 5th session.
Cool. The video looks to be of session #4 ... and the car stepped out just once, but looked a "tick skatey" just a few times. When you lowered the panhard bar again for session #5 ... did that provide enough rear grip where the car didn't step out at all? ... or was the car still "edgy"?

Thoughts?

Glad you had a good day !

[Sieg]

Originally Posted by Track Junky

Thanks Sieg. Gearing is actually perfect. I'm tacking about 6200 at the end of the straight when I get it right.

Pinned over 5...........can you say airbourn

Rev's between corners sounded pretty close all the way around, where is it not ideal and what gearing are you running?

You're running the bypass and Daisy Duke is shaking her head in shame!

Originally Posted by Track Junky

Car is going to Vince's now for a coil over conversion so unfortunately I'll have to miss those this year but hopefully we can get together next season.

Do share the coil over conversion plan, that's where I'm heading with my spare subframe.

[Track Junky]

Originally Posted by Ron Sutton

Glad you had a good day !

Thanks Ron. Just to give you some insight on my path to dialing my suspension in I had moved my watts pivot(not using a panhard) up last season to take the push out of the car. I am now at a point where I'm getting more front grip so I am able to drop rear roll center to increase rear grip. I'll double check on how much each bolt location moves roll center but my guess is about an inch.

Skatey would be a decent description of how the front feels now. I'm thinking it's a combination of still a bit too much castor that might be affecting my scrub radius and I dont think the toe is the same as when I left the alignment shop not to mention it would help to have a decent set of shocks. I'm going to verify if the alignment moved any next Saturday.

[Flash68]

Those pics look great man. You can really see the extra fender space you got for those fronts.

[Track Junky]

Originally Posted by Sieg

Rev's between corners sounded pretty close all the way around. What gearing are you running?

No complaints about the gearing. Running 3.42's

Do share the coil over conversion plan, that's where I'm heading with my spare subframe.

Stay tuned Siegmeister....Hopefully will have something for ya some time in October.

[89 RS]

Good stuff Gaetano, motor sounds healthy. Thanks for sharing man.

[Ron Sutton]

Originally Posted by Track Junky

Thanks Ron. Just to give you some insight on my path to dialing my suspension in I had moved my watts pivot(not using a panhard)
Gotcha.

up last season to take the push out of the car.
Ok. Now that you lowered the front end 1/2" you're loading the front end a LOT more, and it has gripped up the front ... making the car loose with the high RC. If you're not clear, dropping the front end 1/2" is a HUGE change.

With race cars, raising or lowering either end of the car 1/8" is a significant tuning change. 1/4" is a major change. 1/2" is a ton. It will affect the car's grip balance enormously. We don't do this a lot in the front of stock cars, because we're usually at or near the minimum already. So if we need a significant change, we might raise the rear & reset all the link angles.

It slips my mind ... that because you don't have any class rules ... you can do whatever physically works. Dropping the front end 1/2" is where you got the majority of the added front tire grip. The caster & camber changes you made played a smaller role.


I am now at a point where I'm getting more front grip so I am able to drop rear roll center to increase rear grip.
Yup.Yup.

I'll double check on how much each bolt location moves roll center but my guess is about an inch.
Ok. For discussion sake, post the max & minimum height from the ground ... and the difference from hole to hole.

Skatey would be a decent description of how the front feels now.
Is "now" session #5?
At what part of the corner does the front feel skatey?
Does the rear now have "good grip" throughout the corner?


I'm thinking it's a combination of still a bit too much castor that might be affecting my scrub radius

What is your scrub radius & Caster at currently?

and I dont think the toe is the same as when I left the alignment shop
Hmmm. Curbs?

not to mention it would help to have a decent set of shocks.
Of course.

I'm going to verify if the alignment moved any next Saturday.

Cool. Get your scrub radius # & caster degree then too.