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  #951  
Old 01-08-2013, 08:41 PM
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Long answer - yes


Short answer - yes


Be careful trying to quiet down the valve train... you don't want to preload those hydraulic lifters too much. Half a turn on ARP studs equals .030" and a full turn should be .060"

Can't remember - did you go with flat tappet cam? What's different? Rocker arms? Rollers?
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  #952  
Old 01-08-2013, 09:38 PM
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Flat tappet same cam specs reground, existing rockers - Comp Cam Magnums stamped roller tip 1.5 ratio, existing push rods, new Sealed Power HT817R lifters.

The heads didn't have studs, I installed Comp Cam 45022's that are 3/8-24, previous heads had 24 pitch thread also.

Don't want to cross the line, that's why I started at 1/2 turn which appeared to be what the shop had them set at. When that didn't quiet what sounds like one or two lifters when decelerating in the 2,000 to 1,000 rpm range I double checked my work and added an 1/8 turn. I only did a short trip around the neighborhood so a longer drive is in order.

The typical recommended pre-load is 1/2-3/4, but you can find recommendations of up to 1+ and if it's on the internet it's true.
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  #953  
Old 01-08-2013, 09:51 PM
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Yeah ---- I'd be waiting for Jer to chime in and see what he thinks...

I'm not a lifter guy... and run hydraulic rollers -- but I also have lifter noise in my hot rod motors... but it doesn't bother me... cause I also have injectors clicking etc. That's why I love loud exhaust!


LOL
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  #954  
Old 01-08-2013, 10:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GregWeld View Post
Yeah ---- I'd be waiting for Jer to chime in and see what he thinks...

I'm not a lifter guy... and run hydraulic rollers -- but I also have lifter noise in my hot rod motors... but it doesn't bother me... cause I also have injectors clicking etc. That's why I love loud exhaust!


LOL
It's times like this I wish I had mechanical lifters.

The exhaust isn't quiet and it does have a quiet gear drive...........
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  #955  
Old 01-08-2013, 10:23 PM
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I go zero lash then 1/2-1 turn.. (some guys only go 1/2 turn) I adj intake when exhaust starts opening and exhaust when Int starts to close

IMOHO once the cam is broke in, I like to go over it again with the engine running, I have a cut valve cover to stop from making a total mess

Back off the rocker nut until you here a clicking and then tighten down until the clicking just stops then go 1/2- 1 turn

This can explain it better then I can and saves me from a lot of typing


http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...raulic_lifters

http://www.cadvision.com/blanchas/54...c/tappets.html
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Last edited by intocarss; 01-08-2013 at 10:29 PM.
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  #956  
Old 01-08-2013, 10:32 PM
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then another 1/8 turn while tightening your lock allen.....are you positive it isnt a header leak? triple check. that one gets everyone.
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  #957  
Old 01-08-2013, 10:38 PM
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Thanks Jerry

I ran them lifter heading down adjust the adjacent valve.

The more I thought about it adjusting while running made sense. I could take the plasma cutter to the old set of valve covers.

Appreciate the input.
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  #958  
Old 01-08-2013, 10:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vince@MSperfab View Post
then another 1/8 turn while tightening your lock allen.....are you positive it isnt a header leak? triple check. that one gets everyone.
NO! But I did think about the possibility more than once. It sounds too mechanical to me and during low rpm during decel though they sound a little lose at initial start-up. Lower oil pressure levels in both conditions.

You always come up with the logically obvious! Obviously a lot of experience. I will double check though.
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  #959  
Old 01-08-2013, 11:15 PM
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MAKE SURE YOUR ROCKERS AREN'T HITTING THE VALVE COVER I ran the same VC's you are and some of my rockers were hitting
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  #960  
Old 01-08-2013, 11:19 PM
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Latest addition:



I know the first time I need to get upside down in the seat to go under the dash on the drivers side I'm going to forget I have it.

Also relocated the GPS with a Ram Mount ball mounted under the ashtray.



Next priority is a gas pedal that is closer (depth and width) to the brake pedal so I can "heal & toe" with the sides of my foot. These Sparco's or similar might work:


Eliminating the clutch and brake pedal pads will close depth gap 3/8" or so and it doesn't look like it would be too difficult to make a pedal mount that's a 1/2 to 5/8 taller. Unless someone knows of and aftermarket piece.
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