Norwood

[intocarss]

Originally Posted by Sieg

I've got two dogs hounding me to take them for a 2 mile walk in 27* temps right now.............Rev I can handle, Tucker is getting a little forceful.

[Sieg]

Originally Posted by Sieg

Thanks Greg.

I'm not hand rolling, tapping through the stroke with remote switch. When a rocker starts on the down stroke one more tap and adjust the adjacent valve, if the valve goes over the top I catch it on the next cycle. When in doubt I'd double check. All adjustments were documented on a map.

Originally Posted by GregWeld

Valve adjustment


I'm sorry - and don't want to embarrass you while trying to find your issue. But the adjustment sequence you gave isn't right. I hope you were just typing a short response. The backfire - and the exhaust "sound" you've described is wanting to tell me that your valves aren't closing. This could be a timing issue as well -- but this all started after you adjusted the valves... so I'm just trying to find "something" -- and the definition of insanity is to do the same thing over and over and expect a different result.

Keeping with the one thing at a time theme......
When positioning one valve just shy of the top of the lobe it was my understanding that would insure the adjacent valve would be on the base circle of the lobe?

When I backed off the nut I noted the amount of turn it took to obtain zero lash to verify previous adjustment. (The previous run checked out to very close to 1/2 a turn of preload as intended) Then I backed it out a little farther wiggled the rocker and pushrod to "center" and took it down to one definition of zero lash which is firm resistance on the rotation of the pushrod. That may be a max of 1/16 of a turn more than the up and down method? From that point I gave the lifter 5/8 of a turn preload.

At 1,200-1,400 rpm the exhaust note of the motor doesn't indicate a valve not closing or a weak cylinder. It sounded as good as it ever has. I would assume a valve not fully closing would be noticeable by exhaust note and cylinder balance?

[Sieg]

Originally Posted by intocarss

I've thought about that but the cart would need 6 piston caliper brakes and more tire to stop him, especially if there's a lady in heat around.





Brisk beautiful 27* morning.......

[DaleTx]

Originally Posted by Sieg

Thanks Dale I hope it's that simple!

Just read your entire build thread, nice car and the motor package is impressive. Has to be a kick on the track. I'm assuming PIR? Have you been to ORP or The Ridge?

Thanks Sieg... Good luck solving the issue with the tune. like Greg said just make on change at a time and you'll eventually get it.

So far I have only run the car at PIR. I'll look into those other tracks you mentioned, I'd love to try something else.... thanks

[intocarss]

Here is another way to adj valves (this is the way I was taught)

Yes, this is a Mech cam but we've used this method on hyd cams too

[intocarss]

Hey Sieg, where does REV think he's going? LOL at brakes on cart and you sure do live in a beautiful area

[Sieg]

Originally Posted by intocarss

Hey Sieg, where does REV think he's going? LOL at brakes on cart and you sure do live in a beautiful area

If I didn't tell him to stop China may have been his plan unless he found the mouse first. He goes after raccoon's, squirrels and mice with passion. Tucker just enjoys the outdoors and hopes a good looking chick will come along.

We're very fortunate to live where we do.

[GregWeld]

So without actually seeing you adjust valves --- I think that is part of the problem -- I'd START with a fresh valve adjustment using the techniques in the video.

This is CRITICAL regardless of hydraulic of solid.... and done wrong -- you'll have valves not seating fully - or valves open when they shouldn't be etc.

The backfires and gas burning in the muffler kinda leads me to think there's a bit of an issue there... Carbs don't backfire... so that is either timing --- or valve adjustment.

You're not going to know about the valves unless you just do it over with the info you've been given. Personally I use a felt tip pen and mark "I" or "E" on the head gasket surface so when I'm rolling 'em around -- I know which valve I'm working on.

Then when I was done with that --- I'd leave it so that I can watch the valve on number 1 both closed --- watching the ROTOR on the distributor -- and roll it till the timing mark is at TDC.... ALL THOSE THINGS SHOULD MATCH UP -- ROTOR on #1 -- valves on #1 closed after the INTAKE opens and comes closed -- and the timing balancer and pointer on TDC.

At that point -- I'd make a felt pen mark on the dist where the rotor is EXACTLY -- and another where the rotor ends up after she clears the cam gear (gives you a good starting point for the re-stab) -- I'd pull the distributor --- work the advance making sure she's free and snappy -- and check that the stop bushing is where it should be and there's no interference with it.... Stab it back in... after checking that the rotor is where it should be (there should be a square peg on one side)... that it seats properly -- and that the CAP looks good etc.

I'd fire it at this point and see if anything has improved -- set your timing ....

THEN I'd mess with the carb.... but not until I KNEW FOR SURE the valves and the timing are good. Carbs are DUMB -- they don't control much except the idle.

[GregWeld]

I hadn't watch the Comp Cams video until after I posted -- that is ALSO the way I do my valve adjustments.

I mark the valve locations as I described above -- because that takes one thing off my mind while I'm watching the valves. I don't like to have to think much....

[Sieg]

Originally Posted by GregWeld

So without actually seeing you adjust valves --- I think that is part of the problem -- I'd START with a fresh valve adjustment using the techniques in the video.

This is CRITICAL regardless of hydraulic of solid.... and done wrong -- you'll have valves not seating fully - or valves open when they shouldn't be etc.

The backfires and gas burning in the muffler kinda leads me to think there's a bit of an issue there... Carbs don't backfire... so that is either timing --- or valve adjustment.

You're not going to know about the valves unless you just do it over with the info you've been given. Personally I use a felt tip pen and mark "I" or "E" on the head gasket surface so when I'm rolling 'em around -- I know which valve I'm working on.

Then when I was done with that --- I'd leave it so that I can watch the valve on number 1 both closed --- watching the ROTOR on the distributor -- and roll it till the timing mark is at TDC.... ALL THOSE THINGS SHOULD MATCH UP -- ROTOR on #1 -- valves on #1 closed after the INTAKE opens and comes closed -- and the timing balancer and pointer on TDC.

At that point -- I'd make a felt pen mark on the dist where the rotor is EXACTLY -- and another where the rotor ends up after she clears the cam gear (gives you a good starting point for the re-stab) -- I'd pull the distributor --- work the advance making sure she's free and snappy -- and check that the stop bushing is where it should be and there's no interference with it.... Stab it back in... after checking that the rotor is where it should be (there should be a square peg on one side)... that it seats properly -- and that the CAP looks good etc.

I'd fire it at this point and see if anything has improved -- set your timing ....

THEN I'd mess with the carb.... but not until I KNEW FOR SURE the valves and the timing are good. Carbs are DUMB -- they don't control much except the idle.

Distributor is out and back in, just about ready to fire it.

Advance felt ok but a little loose so I installed the two blue springs and blue bushing since I'm going for a little less initial. Don't think the black bushing could have been too tight but I didn't over torque on the re-install and act's smooth through the range.