TKO 600 hard to shift into gears

[Gregster1234]

I have a TKO 600 that I just installed and it was easy to shift into gears before hooking up the driveshaft and clutch linkage, will it free up after I fill with fluid and start and engage into gears for break-in? I do not want to damage something and am not sure if this is normal.
Thanks,
Greg

[GregWeld]

Greg --

Are the wheels off the ground? Before you hooked up the driveline - the tailshaft was free to 'turn' a bit to engage the gears - now if you have the car on the ground - you've locked up the tailshaft with the driveline.

Also - are you certain that your clutch is releasing? Is it hydraulic? Did you bleed it? Some can be bled and some can't... so check it out. Usually there is a small bleed cap in the pressure line and if you just barely crack that open and pump once or twice - slowly. Got to get the air out of the system.

If you haven't bled the clutch - it might not be releasing - and coupled with the locked up driveline - that COULD be your issue. Just a thought is all.

[Gregster1234]

Yes it is still off the ground on jack stands, I have a manual clutch. It was a lot easier to move into different gears before I installed the driveshaft.

[GregWeld]

I'm still thinking though -- that it is due to the driveline being connected - that you now have to engage a gear - that if not quite lined up - it has to move the main shaft / output shaft - which has to move the driveline and the rear end gears / tires...

Normally the gears would be spinning and then use the syncros to slide into gear so things would mesh up better. Also -- is the tranny dry? That's the other thing that would add to the resistance = that there's not much oil slinging around when you're just stationary like that.

[Gregster1234]

Yes it is dry and never started yet, I have been just moving the shifter in and out of gears.

[ohcbird]

1. Did you check to see that the driveshaft isn't binding in the tailshaft housing?

2. It sounds like the clutch isn't disengaging enough. While the slight added weight will make it a wee bit tougher to change gears, it shouldn't make one bit of difference if your clutch is setup properly.

Think of it this way- If your clutch isn't disengaging enough, (without the driveshaft) the tranny guts will easily move to whatever position your input shaft is stuck into. Now that you have added the resistance of the rest of the driveline, the clucth isn't 'letting go' enough, so now your fighting both ends.

One quick test you can do is put it in 1st, have someone push in the clutch, then turn the engine by hand (for safety, since you're on stands). Remember to take the parking brake off. With the clutch in, the rear wheels should NOT rotate (in any gear). If it's dragging, it will be hard to turn the engine, or the rear wheels will try to turn.

Good luck!

Jeff

[Gregster1234]

Hi Jeff,
I started it Sunday and it is not engaging, it tries to move a little while on jack stands, I have a lot of free play at the pedal about halfway to the floor. Do I need to adjust the pivot ball on the scattershield? If so is there a approximate setting? And I assume the trans has to be removed to do this? Newbie!

[KEISLERGENE]

Originally Posted by Gregster1234

Hi Jeff,
I started it Sunday and it is not engaging, it tries to move a little while on jack stands, I have a lot of free play at the pedal about halfway to the floor. Do I need to adjust the pivot ball on the scattershield? If so is there a approximate setting? And I assume the trans has to be removed to do this? Newbie!

Yes the trans will need to be removed. The pedal should only have 7/8 free play.

You can try to adjust the fork pushrod before removing the bell.

The fork needs to go toward the rear of the car.

[protour73]

read this........... http://www.cms-grp.com/files/Clutch_...ation_Tips.pdf