1969 Camaro tru-turn

[glr0212]

[jlwdvm]

Looks like they cut out a big section of the inner fender and bent the edge to make it rigid again? Probably rolled the outer fender lip too?

[marolf101x]

You cannot use the Goodguys car as a reference. Every panel has been changed. Nothing is in the stock location.

[jlwdvm]

Yeh, I've heard that before, but there is nothing else out there for guys with a 69. I have looked at what Rodney has done with his...just looking for more reference to get ideas. Right now my main concern is the sway bar end link (where it bolts to the bar at the subframe). According to my wheel rite tool this is going to be an area of concern. But maybe my tool is wrong....it is a flimsy piece of plastic that is going back to Jegs after all! I'm starting to think I just need to order 18x9.5's with 6" back spacing to get my 275 R888's mounted and start pounding

[Vince@Meanstreets]

Originally Posted by jlwdvm

Yeh, I've heard that before, but there is nothing else out there for guys with a 69. I have looked at what Rodney has done with his...just looking for more reference to get ideas. Right now my main concern is the sway bar end link (where it bolts to the bar at the subframe). According to my wheel rite tool this is going to be an area of concern. But maybe my tool is wrong....it is a flimsy piece of plastic that is going back to Jegs after all! I'm starting to think I just need to order 18x9.5's with 6" back spacing to get my 275 R888's mounted and start pounding

If you are having a problem in that area what we do is weld in a piece of 3/16" steel plate which is drilled and tapped to accept the sway bar bushing brackets.

This will allow you to move the sway bar mounting back a 1/2" or more. Some frames you can back even farther. You can modify the spring opening flange.This will give you the room you need.

[jlwdvm]

Thanks for the input. I'm not sure that would work for the design of the muscle bar since it is the bolt-on end link that is where the interference comes from. Maybe I'm looking into this too much or missing something.

[Vince@Meanstreets]

Originally Posted by jlwdvm

Thanks for the input. I'm not sure that would work for the design of the muscle bar since it is the bolt-on end link that is where the interference comes from. Maybe I'm looking into this too much or missing something.

Oh you went for the full monte. Yeah your fct. Those do get in the way. Everyone running them with good back space has that issue. Be much better if they were splined.

[glr0212]

Originally Posted by Vince@MSperfab

If you are having a problem in that area what we do is weld in a piece of 3/16" steel plate which is drilled and tapped to accept the sway bar bushing brackets.

This will allow you to move the sway bar mounting back a 1/2" or more. Some frames you can back even farther. You can modify the spring opening flange.This will give you the room you need.

Interesting. So it is not uncommon to have tire interference with the sway bar? or is that a thing with only the r888?

[jlwdvm]

I guess I could grind down the affected area of the sway bar arm (the front where it bolts the to bar) and then weld the ends onto the bars (if the bar ends are steel). It seems to me that designing the muscle bar so that the area where the ends bolt to the bar was located under the sub frame instead of past it into the wheel-tire area might allow for more tire clearance...but I am far from a engineer!

[cwylie]

So I got the engine in this week and as you can see Im going to need a lot more camber. I currently have about a .25 inch of spacers on all 4 bolts. I dont think I could fit much more than a half inch without running out of stud. Generally how much spacer is needed to get to the 1.5 degrees of camber or so? Do you ever have to run longer studs? Anyone have a part number for some longer studs?

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BwI...it?usp=sharing