My build is below and I will tell you its not my first build but the most frustrating. I have a Wilwood manual MC and it was bench bled before being attached. I have zero leaks which took a while. I used the mity vac to bleed the calibers but I was getting tiny air bubbles which I thought was from the connection with the hose. I went through a lot of brake fluid but still had bubbles but not the typical air in the system. I put the speed bleeders back on and bled them again. The pedal is still soft. To add salt in my wound I started the car which is on jacks and put it into second gear and stepped on the brake pedal only to watch it continue to spin. I am truly at a loss. This is the first time I have used a Manual Wilwood setup and help out there will be much appreciated. Thanks
yes I had the plugs in after bench bleeding the MC and when I hooked it up to the pedal I could barely move the pedal. I noticed when I was bleeding it the reservoir went down a lot faster in the front than the rear. Volume was low coming out the rears. As I was pulling the brake fluid with the Mity vac they were the same.
maybe try bleeding it backwards. put a hose on the bleeder into fresh fluid, and install your mighty vac at the lines at the master cylinder. ive also had good luck with making a master cylinder cap, and adding a fitting to the top so i can lightly pressurize the master cylinder 15-20 psi to help push fluid threw. you can also try pluging the master cylinder ports one at a time to see if its a problem with the front, or rear.
I was thinking of plugging the MC one at a time and heard a lot about the phoenix V-12 bleeder. Hate to spend $200 or the price of the MC. Maybe chuck Wilwood and go elsewhere.
I was thinking of plugging the MC one at a time and heard a lot about the phoenix V-12 bleeder. Hate to spend $200 or the price of the MC. Maybe chuck Wilwood and go elsewhere.
Plugging one side at a time is a good idea. It doesn't sound like the master is the issue at this point.
Are you running stainless brake lines? They can be a b*tch to seal. Maybe try some conical seals.
Not SS just steel. I do have a wildwood Proportional valve inline to the rear should that be adjusted one way or the other? I am also going to shorten the rod today maybe its not coming back far enough?? also no leaks at all. Thanks
Not SS just steel. I do have a wildwood Proportional valve inline to the rear should that be adjusted one way or the other? I am also going to shorten the rod today maybe its not coming back far enough?? also no leaks at all. Thanks
Prop valve should be adjusted for max rear brake. The direction you turn it is counterintuitive so look at the knob carefully. AMHIK...
ok after 1 1/2 hrs of bleeding the brakes the old fashion way the fronts have no air in them at all and work with very little pedal. The rears just when I think they do not have air in them I try to stop the rear wheels to stop at idle and I can stop them but it requires the pedal to the floor. Not good I rebleed them and the same thing. I think I will stop for a while and see if a shop around here has a good bleed tool and can do them. My head is flat from beating it against the wall
Brian Hobaugh SCCA National Tour June 2014
First Hemi 'Cuda Convertible Ever Built
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I give up with brake bleeding
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