Dynacorn shell and subframe or a good driver car - Lateral-g Forums

Weaver · #1 10-04-2006, 11:11 AM

I am looking to build a pt 69 camaro and of course am on a budget. At this point, I am looking at the $50k range. I am willing to do some of the work myself to save some bucks, so I didn't know if it would be cheaper to buy a dynacorn shell and buy a subframe, front end, engine, tranny, rear end, electircal wiring, gas tank, interior or to buy a good driver and go from there. I am leary of buying a driver only to find out once the car would be media blasted, would find a bunch of bondo or rust repair. Everyone has told me to spend the bucks on a good body as that saves a bunch, so I thought maybe I should just buy a shell and buy whatever else I need to save some $$$.

Comments are welcomed.

Thanks,

Weaver

**camcojb** · #2 10-04-2006, 11:25 AM

The thing with the Dynacorn is there's still a lot of body and metalwork needed to get the fit and finish nice. Every build I've seen mentions that, it does not simply bolt together with all gaps, etc. nice.

This is not a slam on the product, but worth mentioning because if you can't do your own body and metal work you will spend a LOT of money paying someone else to do it. You need to figure that in.

I agree, the appeal of a rust-free body is high.

Jody

Rick Dorion · #3 10-04-2006, 02:13 PM

How about one of the Downs fiberglass 69 camaro coupe bodies

71Nova · #4 10-04-2006, 02:32 PM

Im not saying they don't exist, but I just checked Down Mfg site and didn't see a 69 body offered. Just hot rods

Musclerodz · #5 10-05-2006, 05:09 AM

Mike's Customs Cars and comes with title. http://www.mikescustomcars.com/69bodies.htm

Mike

Rick Dorion · #6 10-05-2006, 08:27 AM

I like those Mike's offerings.

The Downs site doesn't show it. It is discussed on camaros.net

Rob07002 · #7 10-05-2006, 10:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by camcojb

The thing with the Dynacorn is there's still a lot of body and metalwork needed to get the fit and finish nice. Every build I've seen mentions that, it does not simply bolt together with all gaps, etc. nice.

This is not a slam on the product, but worth mentioning because if you can't do your own body and metal work you will spend a LOT of money paying someone else to do it. You need to figure that in.

Jody

Why not slam the product? It's been two years since their release and they have yet to address those issues! $12000 for a shell that needs another 2-3 k in body work! No thank you!

Until they fix the problems with the repop shells, a roller might be a better start, and it's the real deal.

Silver69Camaro · #8 10-05-2006, 10:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rob07002

Why not slam the product? It's been two years since their release and they have yet to address those issues! $12000 for a shell that needs another 2-3 k in body work! No thank you!

Until they fix the problems with the repop shells, a roller might be a better start, and it's the real deal.

90% of those problems have been fixed in the latest prototype. They are quickly approaching the quality of the original GM shell...and may surpass it soon.

Weaver · #9 10-05-2006, 01:25 PM

I guess my question now is would these shells be better to buy than a car. Seems you could find a decent car for $20k.

Weaver

Quote:

Originally Posted by Musclerodz

Mike's Customs Cars and comes with title. http://www.mikescustomcars.com/69bodies.htm

Mike

BThibodeaux · #10 10-05-2006, 01:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Weaver

I guess my question now is would these shells be better to buy than a car. Seems you could find a decent car for $20k.

Weaver

I went with the Dynacorn body becuase I knew that I would be throwing away, or selling cheap most of the stock components of a complete stock car. I am building a PT car with almost nothing original GM in it. If you are planning to go this route, it probably makes more sense to start with a good shell. The Mike's shells look to be the better way to go than Dynacorn though. A visual inspection tells me that my Dynacorn body will need a good bit of straightening at the body shop. Paint and body will probably run about $12K. I had initially hoped to spend around $8K, but don't see it. If you do decide to go the Dynacorn route, PM me and I can give you the name and number of a dealer who gave me a 10% discount on the body, and 20% off all of the sheetmetal.

If you intend to keep your car mostly stock, buying a complete car is probably the better way to go. Either way, paint and body that is done right is almost never cheap on these cars. I would budget at least $10K right off for just about any car that has not had a recent, well documented frame off restoration.