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  #1  
Old 09-02-2007, 05:17 PM
black2002ls black2002ls is offline
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Default getting that show quality shine

Ok. As you read this and think of recommendations, keep in mind this is on a 1/12th scale model car, so any sort of orbital is out of the question. I use strictly automotive paints. The clear cote is omni 2 part urethane. I've got two bodies cleared. I took the Camaro and hit it with 2000 to get rid of the orange peel and to level off where I sprayed the hockey sticks. It will get re-cleared as I rubbed through the clear in one section trying to eliminate a pit. What steps need to be taken before re-clearing, if any, and what is teh best way to get it looking like glass after its sprayed again
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Old 09-02-2007, 05:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by black2002ls
Ok. As you read this and think of recommendations, keep in mind this is on a 1/12th scale model car, so any sort of orbital is out of the question. I use strictly automotive paints. The clear cote is omni 2 part urethane. I've got two bodies cleared. I took the Camaro and hit it with 2000 to get rid of the orange peel and to level off where I sprayed the hockey sticks. It will get re-cleared as I rubbed through the clear in one section trying to eliminate a pit. What steps need to be taken before re-clearing, if any, and what is teh best way to get it looking like glass after its sprayed again

depending on the paint used you may have to use a sealer first before re-coating, as often when you break through the clear into the base a re-coat will wrinkle the edges.

The only way to get it like glass is color-sanding and polishing. In this case maybe work up to 2500 grit and then polish by hand. They're not big so it shouldn't be a big issue.

Jody
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Old 09-02-2007, 06:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by camcojb
depending on the paint used you may have to use a sealer first before re-coating, as often when you break through the clear into the base a re-coat will wrinkle the edges.

The only way to get it like glass is color-sanding and polishing. In this case maybe work up to 2500 grit and then polish by hand. They're not big so it shouldn't be a big issue.

Jody
thanks for the input. I need to invest in some more fine paper. I usually don't sand out the clear, I just polish it, but these bigger cars, its hard to get the clear to lay down really smooth with my gun. I'm still learning. Its an Iwata revolution HP I believe. I also have an issue with striping on my pearl/metallic jobs on the bigger cars. I'm still sorting out my mixing ratios and what not
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Old 09-02-2007, 09:47 PM
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pump up the pressure on that iwata and increase your fan.. give your self a solid pattern about 8 or 10 inches from the tip of gun that is 8-10 inches wide.. the iwatas look a little tricky and the noise makes the pressure seem wierd.. then over reduce your metalics on the last 2 coats with a hotter reducer.. this will help the metalics lay out even.. my iwata made me so mad when i first got it but its just a different animal.. i love it now.. also for your clear just take the fan down about an inch to tighten it up and lay the gun about 6 or 7 inches from the panel.. should be smooth as glass..
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Old 09-03-2007, 09:03 AM
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on the iwata is it a w400, w300, lvlp?
that should cover the entire car in 3 pass's more then likely you do not have fan correct, just make fan as large as it will go, use around 28psi for w400 and 23 psi for w300
make 3 pass's overlapping 75% each pass over the car, basically so each part of the pattern goes over the car.
as for the burn thru, how new is it? i would use a heat gun or bake lamp and bake the edges of the burn thru for a few mins to get the solvents out as the solvents are what cause the edge mapping/wrinkling, then use a small gun or dial you iwata down and apply light coats of base using air stage on gun toi dry the light coat, you should be able to dry the light coat in 1 min or so, apply 3-4 coats, look for edge mapping, if there is some, sand base with 2000 till its gone, apply 2 light coats of base and its ready to clear, just make sure rest of car is sanded with 2000 so you can re clear,
the edge mapping has nothing to do with anything reacting, its where you opended up the clear and being so fresh it is still gassing out, as it take 30-90 days for it to completely gas out.
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