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  #21  
Old 11-23-2013, 08:50 PM
Tony V Tony V is online now
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Originally Posted by Sonar Chief View Post
Nice progress ... car is looking awesome! I especially like the painted Lizard Skin look on the bottom, thinking about painting mine after application of Lizard SKin now!! Did you use the entire 2 gallons or did you use more?

Can you post up some of those fender rolling pictures ... that is a good fit on those 325's. Did you do anything other than the tubs and a roll on the lip?

Thanks for sharing.

Michael
Thanks Michael...i've only used ~1/2ga to cover the entire bottom although its mixed 4:1:1 with hardner & reducer... The Lizard skin soaks it up so we put on 4 to 5 coats... I couldn't say anything bad about the PPG "concept" brand although it was a bit expensive, i didn't get any overspray and the finish came out perfect.

I'll post some pictures another "wish i had taken some pictures before taking it off the rotisserie". Nothing special, used DSE tubs and the wheels had a 6" back space. let me get in there and attempt some better pictures for ya....
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  #22  
Old 11-23-2013, 08:58 PM
Tony V Tony V is online now
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Originally Posted by 32deucecoupe View Post
Who's sheet metal did you use for the front fenders? How did it fit up.
Well i think i used every sheet metal vendor out there and nothing really fits...here's what i did...when i was ready to weld in the qtrs...i completely reassembled the car using all the old rusty/banged up pieces to align my qtrs...once i got the qtrs on and welded i replaced door skins, hood and fenders. all of my gaps are looking exceptionally good...only the right door to qtr fit need some extra work other than that the hood and door gaps look really good.

I bought from Goodmark, Classic Industries (OER), AMD and can't say one is better than the other...
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  #23  
Old 11-24-2013, 10:01 AM
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KPC67 KPC67 is offline
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Loving the progress you are making.
You went about the sheet metal the right way. one thing at a time.
Sure wish I would have been that smart
Love the stance it has with your buddy's wheels.
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  #24  
Old 11-25-2013, 10:24 PM
Tony V Tony V is online now
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Ok, got a better picture of the wheel lip and a did a quick measurement...at the thinnest spot its ~.410" and its "rolled back" betweenthe 10 and 2 positions.



Now i'm working the body for primer prep....here's where i've "cheated" and hired someone to show me how. Pete came over with some bullseye picks and hammer and dolly to help straigten out small dings and low spots... one thing i was surprised was how you can fix a spot thats "oil canning" as Pete would call it. my passenger side qtr panel in the sail section towards the roof was indented or "soft" to the touch. He used his pick and hammer to stiffen it and straighten it so we don't need to fill it with filler. i'm kinda just watchin and learning at this point



Qtr ready to go


Fender ready to go


Door skins going on...BTW gotta send a big thanks to Michael because spraying the Lizard Skin on prior to putting the skin on was a big time saver.


Still shooting for the first coat of primer on prior to Thanksgiving.
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  #25  
Old 05-29-2014, 06:25 PM
Tony V Tony V is online now
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Time to post some more updates…progress is slow and steady. Trying not to cut any corners but the anticipation of finishing this someday is killing me….and my wife.

Here’s some of the things I’ve worked on since the last post:
• Dry sump tank installation
• Engine bay down bars
• Brake lines
• Brake/Clutch reservoir installation
• Console customization
• Battery/Power distribution panel install
• Fuel Tank and wiring install
• Throwing money at the engine build
Updates mean nothing without pics so here’s some documentation:
My Dry sump “relocation” program has taken an extensive amount of time and I’m still not done. Actually I once gave up and welded the cowl back up and after trying to find another location I cut the cowl back off to take another run at it, so I’m a bit stubborn. Working on the access door has proved to be the most difficult. I found that the an early 2000’s Hyundai fuel door fits in the top fender area nicely therefore I’m using that as my “model” although the hinge doesn’t get me the tight gap lines so I’m going to use a chevy fuel door hinge…..this is a work in progress. I had Peterson build me a tank especially for the cowl area and optimize my volume therefore I’ve gotta figure out how to make it work.





I noticed once on got the car on all fours again that there was still some flex in the front clip when I jack the car so I decided to add some support bars. I’m using the slick bar flanges from Chris at ….. and used some 1”emt to mock up what angles and where to position the mounts. As you can see I made pockets in the front wheel wells to receive the bar flanges. Now just need to get some 13/4” bars bent and I’ll weld them in.

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  #26  
Old 05-29-2014, 06:25 PM
Tony V Tony V is online now
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Got my front brakes plumbed and routed, used the emergency brake hole in the fire wall and I welded in 1/8” female threaded pipe and welded them into the frame, then to clean up the fittings I made my own “tee”.



Also worked on getting the master cylinders installed and plumbed. I’m hoping not the regret this down the road but having everything under the dash makes it real clean but any maintenance or adjustments will make it burdensome.



I recently saw a console from a late model Camaro with some instrumentation mods. I really liked it and set off to mimic it. Lot of work but it looks real good (first time I worked with plastics) but I’m happy with it so far although I’ll go get the entire piece dipped (hydro graphics – carbon fiber visuals). I’ll also relocate the E-Brake to the console.




Really spending some time on optimizing wiring and routing…..so for some background info I’m using the ISIS system with a trunk mounted battery. Secondly I’m also using the Vaporworx fuel system so to make it compact and clean I decided to build a “rear power distribution” panel sitting between the battery and back seat. I used both sides of the panel to optimize space and clean up the wire runs. I’ll powder coat the metal black along with the tank once I get everything fitted, wires run and mounts established.








Also working the entire wiring diagram for the car and I’ll use the existing ’67 style switches for activation, a lot of detail and thought before starting cutting and terminating wires. I’ll also use military style round bulkhead connectors, 1 for the 12v requirements up front and 1 connector for the Holley ECU.





No pics on the engine build yet….i would’ve assumed it would’ve been down by now but as I’ve realized everything is underestimated cost and time…Waiting on the Callie Crank apparently they didn’t have any 8 bolt cranks on the shelf. So we’re waiting Crank and Cam everything else is here waiting for assembly.
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  #27  
Old 05-29-2014, 08:00 PM
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Glad to see you still plugging away at this. I like what you're doing. Good luck!
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  #28  
Old 05-29-2014, 09:10 PM
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Love all the thought, hard work and parts you're putting into this Tony. I do have one request tho...post more often?
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  #29  
Old 05-29-2014, 11:09 PM
Tony V Tony V is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron in SoCal View Post
Love all the thought, hard work and parts you're putting into this Tony. I do have one request tho...post more often?
i agree Ron....not enough posts. Little League is almost over so i'm hoping for some more Camaro time.

Thanks for the encouragement
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  #30  
Old 05-29-2014, 11:25 PM
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Tony,very nice work so far and like Ron says more updates.
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