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  #1  
Old 01-06-2012, 07:35 PM
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454SSguy 454SSguy is offline
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Default 4 Link setup

So I've been reading quite a bit about how a 4 link setup for drag and a 4 link setup for auto cross are different. The biggest issue I hear about is a drag 4 link will bind when used for autocross. I don't get this since most heim joints will articulate 18* and some up to 24*. I assume then it must be in the design of the 4 link itself. So how would you setup a 4 link to not bind? Triangulate 4 link? I plan on doing a simple 4 link and watts link when I get home, this is why I'm asking.
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Old 01-06-2012, 09:43 PM
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I would look into a Ride Tech 4-bar Tri. system. They come complete W/ everything needed for a great in stall and is a good qualtiy product.
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Old 01-06-2012, 10:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coolwelder62 View Post
I would look into a Ride Tech 4-bar Tri. system. They come complete W/ everything needed for a great in stall and is a good qualtiy product.
I've looked at some of there stuff and it is definitely quality stuff. I really don't think that setup is for track use. Plus I wouldn't be able to use that kit as it bolts in to the stock leaf spring location, it won't give me enough room for my wheel and tire setup (345/40R17's out back) I can't really find anything autocross oriented for my truck. It's like turning in a truck is a safety hazard or something . I think I'm gonna have to setup my own thing. I know about where my IC needs to be for just cruising around, and the drag guys can tell me where to set it if I take it to the strip. I'm curious as to how to set it up for autocross.

Last edited by 454SSguy; 01-06-2012 at 10:59 PM.
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Old 01-07-2012, 09:00 AM
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Your main problem is going to be with weight distribution, both F/R and height.

If you have to get rid of the leafs and you are sold on the tri 4 link, I'd consider going to a 9" Ford housing. For handling, you want the upper links absolutely as close together as possible on the center section. The steel 9" housing will allow you to weld the brackets on wherever you need them. This allows you to make the top links as long as possible and still have a nice wide included angle to keep the axle located side to side. I don't think the stock frame will have enough "kick up" forward of the axle (to mount the top links), especially if you get the ride height down where it needs to be.

The drag race version of the 4 link does bind in roll, due to the link angles and lengths typically used.

If you have any more questions about this, PM me; as I'm not on here much at all anymore.
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Old 01-07-2012, 10:03 AM
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I know the weight is an issue, it's just always gonna be in a truck. I am doing as much as I can about the ride height. It will be a total of about 5" drop in the rear, hoping to almost tuck a 28" tire. For lateral location my father and I are fabbing up a watts link mount that will have it's own crossmember, with link bars mounted on the axles. The current ideas I have about the 4 link are not triangulated but I am building all my own brackets so it wouldn't be a problem it that would be the best setup. I have seen people on here using a parallel 4 link type setup so I know it's possible. I won't be tracking this car all the time, or really more than 1 a month I'd think, so I don't want to lose to much ride quality in this setup either.
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Old 01-07-2012, 09:05 PM
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The DSE 4-link has four parralel links in top view with a panhard bar. Very similar to a drag race 4-link.

If you take a drag race 4-link and make the LCA horozontal and get the top link so you have a longer IC with a A/S between 50 and 100 percent and make the panhard as long as possible and horizontal and low then you would have a decent setup.
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