Just a question.....what is the best way to approach the frame of a classic vehicle once the body is off. The best way to detail it. Where does a guy start.
Take absolutely every nut and bolt off it.
Check for straightness.
Grind and MIG weld over all the factory welds (which look like chicken poop)
Box it for stiffness if it's not already, gusset anything that looks weak.
Check for straightness (all that welding might cause warpage)
Mock up engine/trans, narrow crossmember, make crossmember brackets.
Sandblast, prime, and paint.
Too bad i ran out of money, and that's as far as I got
Take absolutely every nut and bolt off it.
Check for straightness.
Grind and MIG weld over all the factory welds (which look like chicken poop)
Box it for stiffness if it's not already, gusset anything that looks weak.
Check for straightness (all that welding might cause warpage)
Mock up engine/trans, narrow crossmember, make crossmember brackets.
Sandblast, prime, and paint.
Too bad i ran out of money, and that's as far as I got
Well, first of all, what kind of car is it? Some cars have boxed frames stock.
Chevelles are what I know, so that's what I'll talk about Chevelles have the side rails made out of 1/8" thick steel bent in a big "C" shape. The open end allows a lot of flexibility, which you don't want. By welding a plate onto the open side to close it, it makes it much more rigid and better for cornering.
I just traced a pattern onto cardboard, and plasma-cut out a some new 1/8" steel pieces to fit. Any welding shop could cut the pieces for you, if you don't have the equipment.
I'll look for some of my pictures I took of what I did.
I just got all the brake lines and fuel lines, & rear end off of mine. Will use this nylon bristle thingy on a drill to basically clean the frame. I have alot of surface rust. Oh yeah, I used some oven cleaner to get the grease and grime off everything that had it. Then this nylon thingy to basically clean. Plan to either POR15 it or try this Zerorust. After that, I may get some stainless nuts and bolts to put back in.
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1972 Nova 355, 4 spd, rusty but something to drive.
1972 Pro-touring Cutlass S in the works....still
Brian Hobaugh SCCA National Tour June 2014
First Hemi 'Cuda Convertible Ever Built
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Frame prep
Chevelles have the side rails made out of 1/8" thick steel bent in a big "C" shape. The open end allows a lot of flexibility, which you don't want. By welding a plate onto the open side to close it, it makes it much more rigid and better for cornering. 
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