My 76' and I

[1_Car_Guy]

Entry 14: 12/10/2022

Been a while since I updated this. Stopped over once or twice between this post and the last. Started burning out some old bondo near the driver side door. Wasn't a lot, but enough.

When it was originally hit back in 1981 - looks the body shop salvaged the original door. In the process of their repair, they grinded a bit too thin in a few spots and instead of spot welding, grinding smooth etc., they went straight for the bondo. You can kind of see what I'm talking about in one of those pics where I started grinding it out/burning.

Burning bondo out I can handle, door skin repair is well out of my wheelhouse. Leaving that task to the shop. Overall, there's no rot which isn't a surprise, but that shady door repair was.

Some more bondo near passenger side rear wheel well, some more above driver rear wheel. Passenger rocker panel is solid but slightly bent from a floor jack, need to replace that.

Ordered new hood hinges - wanted to salvage original but too much trouble for what it's worth in time. Ordered all new hardware for sheet metal. Silly me thought bagging and tagging every bolt, nut, washer 7 years ago was worth it.

Check out that door gap. Look better than the day I ripped the thing apart.

[1_Car_Guy]

Entry 15: 12/27/2022

Started stripping to bare metal with a combination of razor blades and the DA. Started off pretty well until I got to the driver's side rear quarter and door.

Unbeknownst to me, when the driver's side door/cowl section/rear quarter was hit back in the 80s...looks like the repair shop salvaged the original sheet metal, fixed the dents and used bondo for repairs.

These are expenses I wasn't planning on. I was well aware there was no rust/rot...but silly me assumed the repairs from yesteryear used NOS/salvaged sheet metal.

Oh well what can you do. Ordered up a new rear quarter panel and located a salvaged door from another 76. I was worried about going too far with the DA and possible warping panels due to heat/my inexperience...so we won't have any full car in bare metal shots...letting the shop handle the rest

These are photos from where I left off last weekend:

[1_Car_Guy]

Entry 16: 2/2/2023

Stopped by the shop the other day; new rear quarter and door roughly in place. Some pictures below of that. I still don't know how to add an image correctly, where/how I can write, add an image and keep writing again. Whenever I add photos they simply appear at the bottom of the post by default. Also, how big should I have the photos? 600 x 600 seems about right...right?

One more thing to add here. A few years back I added a T56 hump panel to the transmission tunnel; the first bit of welding I ever did myself. Not sure if it was necessary since the car was a 4-speed from the factory. I didn't have a T56 magnum laying around at the time so I kind of just guessed - but IIRC instruction specified that it should sit essentially where the factory hole was (I guess we'll find out!). The hump does clear the factory console, luckily.

I bring this up because I got the urge to explore other manual transmission options since T56 conversions are the norm. Budget considered...with what I'm trying to do (with a 3,500 lb. car, drag radials, ladder bars and 700 ft. lb. I'd be right at the brink of stock T56 Magnum limitations). I thiiiink TKOs are 650 fl. lbs.

Auto Gear and Equipment (out in Syracuse NY and 2.5 hours from me) build mean Muncie transmissions, including M23 and their M24. I spoke to a representative for about an hour and was told they're capable of building an M24 that can hold +700 ft. lbs. We spoke in very loose terms but it was an interesting conversation, worth re-visiting possibly. The thought of having a loud Muncie churning along is cool. Being different is cool. Lacking OD is not cool, and neither would be having to replace it after an expensive lesson in mechanical limitation.

Just curious if any of you have experience with them or a Muncie with such claims? Is it a pipe dream?

Link = http://www.autogear.net/

[1_Car_Guy]

Entry 18: 4/29/2023

If you've been following along since the beginning, you'll remember that my original plan with this phase was to get the sheet metal back on the car and metal work wrapped up.

That soon became more involved and expensive than I anticipated. While the car was a 32,000 original mile car, 1 owner (my father), never saw snow...it had been in a collision.

Once all the paint was off, I was somewhat surprised when it became pretty obvious that replacing the previously 'saved' driver's side door and quarter was essential if
i wanted it done correctly. While a surprise I wasn't disappointed because this stuff happens when restoring a 48-year-old car. I also had the firewall smoothed and drivers side cowl panel replaced.

Through all of this I was hopeful that when it came time for bodywork to begin (filler, sanding, prepping for sealer, spraying in sealer), that I could afford to get it done all at the same point after metal work was done. This wasn't part of my original plan but getting the car back 'paint ready' was going to be comforting to know that that phase was done.
A big milestone for me. Would just need color down the road.

However, I stopped by the shop yesterday and was awestruck at the body work estimate. I don't see many people throw around exact numbers around here, but I will.

I was quoted 15,000 for body work. Mind you this would be on top of the 12,500 I've laid out for what I've had done so far. So in total...bill would be around 27,500 to receive a car back with all metal work and body work done...in sealer.

Like I said in the beginning, I've never restored a car before and have never messed with body work, but this is a bit out of my price range right now.

New plan is to get her back with all metal work done and the egregious body work areas completed (B-pillar to roof line for new quarter, and the hood).

I think I'm going to give the remaining body work a shot on my own. My uncle has a private shop a few towns away. I figure I can pick up block sanders, an air file, and supplies for under 1,000. If it's not good enough, I'll just sand it off and try again until it is or until I throw in the towel and decide I'm willing to pay approximately 15,000 for body work. Whatever comes first.

One other area that needed to be address is the package tray area along the bottom of the rear window. This was also a surprise. Car never saw snow and was only a daily driver for 1 year of its life which means this is all from hand washing and a compromised window seal.

Two other photos of the new quarter seams.

[1_Car_Guy]

Entry 19: 7/21/2023

Time flies. I got the car back on 7/21 and pretty happy with how the car came back. Metal work is what I asked for. Rocker panels left a little to be desired, and B-pillar/roof seams are ROUGH but what can I expect. It needs body work anyway down the road.

Since home I've been focused on gathering parts and tools for what I hope is a productive late summer and fall. Hoping to knock out the fuel system, and steering column re-build through December. Brakes will probably have to wait until winter.

I got to work on the Tanks Inc. EFI set-up last night and wrapped up the pump and sending unit. Instructions were vague in parts but it all worked out. Some photos of that.

Just ordered up a flaring kit since my last one was for 45 degree only! Man, prices are crazy these days.

Next up is picking up some braided tube, Nicopp hardline and laying out the system on the ol' whiteboard:
https://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/p...cat/cat162.htm

[syborg tt]

This car is just incredible


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[1_Car_Guy]

Originally Posted by syborg tt

This car is just incredible


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks! Itching for it to warm up so I can finish up a few things.

I'd like to be able to claim fuel and brakes 100% complete by mid may.

But before I can do that (brakes) I need to purchase the right length flex lines. Fuel is easy, I just need to take the fuel lines apart and blow them out with some air one final time. I didn't make things very easy for myself with how I routed them from what I remember smh.

[1_Car_Guy]

Entry 25: 4/16/2025

Finished up brake lines to both front corners on Sunday. Will route to rear with hardline, use a 14 inch flex line to rear axel and split with a T-fitting to rear calipers this weekend.

I found a really nice union that has a 1 male -3AN, 2 female 1/8-27NPT and a 3/8 inch hole that you can mount the whole fitting to the rear axel to.

My wife and I are expecting our next son to arrive on May 21st. Getting excited.

I was also quoted $4,200 to apply a ProShield Flake Flooring System (675 sq feet) to the garage. And that includes a Penntek NX300 clear polyaspartic clear coat.

Doesn't sound too bad all things considered.